Iconic Colorado Routes

[12ersRule]

I can think of a lot of decent c3 scrambles, but not a whole heckuva lot of sustained c4 and up routes on dry rock, that you're talking about.

The east Ridge of static in rmnp was definitely an adventure with 40mph gusts, though.

As far as good snow routes, seems like that season is so short. Just have to get lucky and time it right.

I'd love to see a similar list for Wyoming.

[SchralpTheGnar]

I can think of a lot of decent c3 scrambles, but not a whole heckuva lot of sustained c4 and up routes on dry rock, that you're talking about.

The east Ridge of static in rmnp was definitely an adventure with 40mph gusts, though.

As far as good snow routes, seems like that season is so short. Just have to get lucky and time it right.

I'd love to see a similar list for Wyoming.

For snow routes, you can usually find good conditions from April to June in Colorado, just move elevations, aspects, ranges, etc as the season progresses, some luck involved, but not much, but you do usually have to get up really early in the morning.

I've always thought that the alpine mountaineering Wyoming was leaps and bounds above Colorado, mainly due to the geology of the Grand Teton and Wind River ranges. While much smaller in terms of acreage, they pack a lot of punch. Colorado has lots of good everything, but is really only truly world class in the rock climbing realm IMSO, with skiing being next on that list.

[dhgold]

I've always thought that the alpine mountaineering Wyoming was leaps and bounds above Colorado, mainly due to the geology of the Grand Teton and Wind River ranges. While much smaller in terms of acreage, they pack a lot of punch. Colorado has lots of good everything, but is really only truly world class in the rock climbing realm IMSO, with skiing being next on that list.

About time someone said this. California and Washington also far surpass Colorado for destination worthy mountaineering routes. While Colorado may not have top-tier mountaineering, the peak bagging is first-rate, offering many, many enjoyable ambles with great scenary, easy approaches and pretty good weather. In defense of Tory Wells, The Barr Trail is an iconic peak bagging route.

[Monster5]

mainly due to the geology of the Grand Teton and Wind River ranges

Geomorphology and geology.

Agreed on the snow - switch aspects as the season progresses and one can climb couloirs several months of the year. Fall couloir season is actually pretty nice for ice, if not snow.

About time someone said this

I think because that's already well established and known. Yep, Wyoming, Washington, Montana, and California all have better mountaineering and alpine climbing. On a "world famous" or "destination worthy" scale, we've got the Black, the Diamond, and Eldo. Oh and the First and Third Flatirons.

If we move to a smaller scale, perhaps just the US, then we can throw in the 14ers.

Move to an even smaller scale, the Colorado climbing and mountaineering community, then we get to the routes mentioned in this thread. Though some of the routes mentioned are more along the entrenched local knowledge track.

[dannyg23]

Stettners too "climby" for this list? A very historical and fun route, to be sure. You really have to put the 3rd flatiron on here too. Maybe it's more iconic than mountaineering - but it has the former in spades and certainly falls somewhere between hiking and climbing. It can be done with snow too, if that helps you.

I haven't done enough to be an authority on the subject, but I'll put all my votes to Kieners as the best "mountaineering" route in CO. Get it at the right time, and you've got all the elements of good 'ol fashioned mountaineering, and plenty of history. Most of the routes on your list don't quit get it all in, the way Kieners does.

[SchralpTheGnar]

Geomorphology and geology.

In my geology book it says that geomorphology is a branch of geology, so I used geology as the all encompassing term. It's an older book, has that changed in recent years? Not that it matters much, but I do love to study geology.

[justiner]

I was in Glacier Gorge yesterday, and was particularly blown away with what I saw. In a 270 degree spread seemed to be an incredible array of quality routes of all types of "mountaineering", from boulders to alpine walls (honestly, I took photos of boulders I know have never been topped, or even seen by a boulderer). Longs Peak didn't even look like the most interesting objective to focus on. In this thread, how many routes were mentioned that are accessed from there? None. Yet most everyone who's summited Longs can see G.G., just from a different vantage point. It just looks like, I dunno, beautiful background filler.

Maybe a big part of what makes an iconic route is popularity, and not necessarily some type of intrinsic quality or other-ness. When I think of the Tetons (an area I'm not so familiar with), there's only one iconic peak in that entire range and that's the Grand (and I can't remember the iconic route on it, which just one cup of coffee). Is that because there's no other worthy climbing destinations? That's crazy talk.

Take the Keyhole Route which is undeniably an iconic route up Longs Peak. In maybe the last year, I've been very lucky to climb routes that I didn't even know existed that you literally walk right by, when following the Keyhole. My objective yesterday was the Loft Direct (not ideal with the snow or lack there of conditions, but still fun). At the top of the Loft is a route that follows the SW ridge of Longs - it's where the Trough turns into the Narrows. I know about it mostly because of Brian C.'s report. I decided to give it a go, and it turned out to be an excellent route. Being on the SW ridge is an outstanding position.

I don't know if I'd call it iconic, but it made me very happy to explore it.

Anyways, rambling. I really haven't explored much of RMNP, but there are quality routes in the Park. I think having some climbing background would help enjoy it more, but it's mountaineering we're talking about right? Give a thumb through Rossiters guide. Alpine climbing in the park doesn't necessarily mean the Casual Route.

[SchralpTheGnar]

That's a good point, I left out my favorite glacier gorge routes because I called a mountaineering route up to 5.4 and everything I've done in there is harder than that, actually I think the 5.6 north ridge on spearhead is the easiest route in that basin and I actually took a whipper on that, but I was probably off route. Glacier gorge is a spectacular basin, so many classics, a truly spiritual place in a privileged position.

I want to go back to GG now, thanks a lot!


I searched mountain project, 4th-5.4 routes in glacier gorge, I stand corrected, there's a few routes back there but I haven't done any.

[Monster5]

Yep, you touched on it. Those routes weren't mentioned because of the "what is iconic" line of thinking. There are plenty of high quality routes that are not popular or well known. They aren't common benchmarks for the aspiring and developing Colorado mountaineer.

In GG, Deborah is just as good as Dreamweaver, yet probably less than a dozen people here know where Deborah is without looking it up. Arrowhead to McHenry's is one of the best scrambles in the state, along with more technical Glacier Gorge traverse yet those are also relatively unfrequented. Spearhead N would probably make the list of top ten most famous easy-moderate climbing routes in the state, and Syke's is right next door.

Further afield, Flour Power and Wham are just as good or better than Dragonstail yet see little play. Zowie is comparable to the Petite. Ypsilon-right is comparable to Kiener's though the thrill of crossing Broadway is somewhat exchanged for the thrill of crossing below a sizable cornice. Mohling traverse is absolutely fantastic. There are a lot of routes I'd gladly give the "best" or high quality labels to if not iconic.

A common criticism of Cooper's scrambles and snow books is that he went with geographic distribution over quality. Had he gone with quality, a few select ranges might be more featured.

[cougar]

The waterfall at Casa Bonita

[gb]

A common criticism of Cooper's scrambles and snow books is that he went with geographic distribution over quality. Had he gone with quality, a few select ranges might be more featured.

Got a photo of the table of contents? Completely curious now, and I don't own the book