Maroon Peak

Route: South Ridge
Posted On: 8/3/2014, By: bbass11
Info: Hiked Maroon Peak and did the traverse today. There was no snow anywhere near the route for either peak. For now at least, full summer conditions for the peaks. Following the actual trail as described by 14ers.com up the 2800 ft proved to be not too smart. The parties that followed some cairns further left (SW) than the trail and crested the ridge at a lower point had a much easier time of it and also reported almost no loose stuff, whereas the trail itself is full of steep scree. 

Route: South Ridge
Posted On: 7/28/2014, By: Exiled Michigander
Info: The 2,800 feet of suck still sucks, but the views are rewarding (Image #1). Any snow remaining on Maroon can be avoided (Image #2). The "first gully" is snow free, but the "second gully" has a snowfield blocking its entrance (Image #2). A party ahead of us attempted to climb under and around the snowfield to get to the "second gully" (Image #3), but after encountering difficulties chose to return to the "first gully." This would be my recommendation until after the snow fully melts. The "first gully" is a bit steeper, but if you climb along the rock rib on the right side it is fairly solid. Just keep in mind that this is the Elks, so you can‘t ever fully avoid the loose stuff! Many of the large cairns that I recall being at the entrances of ledges when I climbed Maroon last year appear to have been washed away, so finding the right ledges between gullies was a bit trickier. The viable ledges tend to be fairly wide and obvious though. It is pretty easy to keep things at Class 3, especially if you are willing to retreat a bit if you encounter things getting more technical. However, if you are lazy like me, you can usually get back to a Class 3 route by doing an easy Class 4 move occasionally. If not for the 2,800 feet of suck, this would probably be my favorite 14er. Have fun! 

Route: South Ridge Descending Bell Cord
Posted On: 7/24/2014, By: WillRobnett
Info: Ice axe and helmet. At least two liters of water leaving the upper valley at 10,400. Snow was little option as a scenic route on the ascent. Descending the Bell Cord was "cliff after cliff", "I think see the bottom", "Looks pretty sketch but should be okay after this", "snow is gettin soft watch your feet" 19 hour hike. 

Route: South Ridge
Posted On: 7/12/2014, By: gregpeak
Info: There were a few snow fields low on the route that can easily be avoided. The upper route if clear of snow and many cairns have been placed such that route finding is pretty straight forward. 

Route: Bells Traverse
Posted On: 7/3/2014, By: marcstrawser
Info: Trail leading to Maroon was great, river crossing isn’t the worst I’ve done so far (Lindsey) this year and is easily done without getting wet if you’re coordinated and the rocks aren’t frozen over. Route itself is mostly snow free but there are snowfields before the ridge, all of which avoidable if you’re keen on climbing rock (class 3). Once on the ridge had to make a few small maneuvers to avoid snow including a large drift (4 feet+) blocking the trail, actually had to climb over it but was solid at 10am. There was one other drift at the top of a gully that needed to be maneuvered by sliding down it 3 feet into rocks, not a big deal. Traverse is pretty much in summer form and was the easiest part of the day for me. Descent of N Maroon should not be taken lightly in any season, but right now it’s just miserable. Crossed a few snowfields using my axe and climbed down ice/melt on the crux (video on flickr later, PM me if you want the link). Finding cairns wasn’t easy, but once I found my way to about 13,600’ it was pretty clear and isn’t bad at all if you know where you’re going. Seems like it’s melting out quickly, but if I were doing anything on N Maroon this weekend I would still want at least an axe. https://www.flickr.com/photos/98188324@N08/sets/72157645441582886/ 

Route: Bell Cord Couloir
Posted On: 6/13/2014, By: benglish
Info: Great conditions. Snow line crosses the W maroon trail and continues to the col. Be aware that crater lake has consumed a significant portion of the trail on its west side. Also, the streams are running at full tilt. I got an unexpected baptism on my way in. 

Route: Bell Cord Couloir
Posted On: 6/13/2014, By: John Young
Info: The Bell Cord couloir is in good condition IF you get there early enough. The runnel (s) are fairly deep at 5‘ - 7‘ deep. The cornice the top is significant, so keep that in mind on your way up. Late day sun and rain can make the afternoons deadly - don‘t be there then. 

Route: Bell Cord Couloir
Posted On: 5/29/2014, By: RWSchaffer
Info: Did the Bell Cord on Wednesday and found lots of snow. I‘ve never before seen a continuous line of snow from the Maroons‘ saddle to the valley floor after Memorial day. Nor have I seen so much snow on the trail below Crater lake. Unfortunately, the snow is dirty (Photo 1). It‘s also poorly consolidated. Much of the snow warmed in the sun to become gloppy mush, especially above 13,000 feet. There‘s avalanche debris everywhere (Photos 2, 3, and 4). So I wasn‘t surprised when on my descent of the snow field below the Bell Cord, an avalanche swept down the middle third of the field (I was off on the north edge). Finally, the summit has a cornice overhanging the east face. So stay to the west, a bit down from the apparent highest point, where you know that there are rocks supporting your weight. 

Route: Bell Cord Couloir
Posted On: 3/6/2014, By: Cool Hand Luke
Info: Maroon Bells and Pyramid from the summit of Highland Peak. The Bell Cord looked like it has not had a slide since the last storm cycle. Based on the conditions of the Highlands Bowl (12,162 ft) this would put around 16" of new snow that did not seem to bond well to the existing pack. The storm deposited large wind slabs on east-facing aspects. Skiing in bounds at Highlands we set off a small sluff slide even after extensive avalanche bombing. Highlands Ski Patrol spent several hours bombing the bowl area that specific day. Note the natural slide in the foreground. 

Route: Bell Cord Couloir
Posted On: 1/2/2014, By: FireOnTheMountain
Info: Winter TH at T lazy ranch all the way (~7 miles) to maroon lake is groomed road. Made for very smooth sailing. First 2/3 of Cord was pretty good snow. We (MadMike & SummitLounger) traversed closer to the cliff faces as we made our way around the garbage chute to avoid large open faces (after digging a pit that revealed some sketch). Top 1/3 of Cord is waist deep sugar. Felt good underneath us but very grueling work. 

Route: South Ridge
Posted On: 8/5/2013, By: cdgibbons
Info: Route Update: While other trail work may be ongoing, it appears CFI has completed a new access point for the east slope on the standard South Ridge Route on Maroon Peak. 3.25 miles from the trailhead, which is .25 miles BEFORE reaching the bent tree, turn right at the location shown in the photos. There is a large cairn next to a bush, and just past the cairn, you will see some large rocks anchoring a gradual trail across the small rock glacier. This trail bypasses the first steep section described in the standard route description; at both the old access, as well as when the new trail and old trail merge above, the old trail is marked as closed for revegetation. Big thanks to CFI and all of the folks who have worked on this. 

Route: South Ridge
Posted On: 7/7/2013, By: vorticity
Info: Climb to the ridge is brutal ... crisscrossing steep trails. Do it early when the ground is moist. On the down-climb expect small rocks in baby powder. Ugh. Hardly any snow along the route, except for one fairly large snow field about 300 feet from the summit just beyond the LARGE GULLY. This appears to be dead center in the middle of the trail, but one Class 4 move to climbers right of the snow field gets you over the snow, then there is a clear route across the top of the snow field, no sweat. Vort. 

Route: South Ridge
Posted On: 7/1/2013, By: JEyez
Info: Summer conditions. No need for traction or ice axe. Besides an easily passable and rocky ~10' snow crossing near the bottom of the SE slope the entire route is dry and good to go. You can easily bypass the snow if beyond your comfort level but considering the choss you're about to encounter it shouldn't be a problem. 

Route: Bell Cord Couloir
Posted On: 6/3/2013, By: ulvetano
Info: Climbed Bell Cord to summit and descended south and onto/into the SE Face/couloir. Departed TH at 2am and summitted at 10am via the heavily runnelled Cord. Unfortunately left me skies here, since the route was so beat up. Variable snow throughout with pockets, ice, good cramponing - a bit of everything. From saddle to summit, minimal snow & ice on the ledges, up to a heavily corniced ridge that extended all the way down the southern route. 11am on the snow was very wet and lots of rock, ice, and roller balls were flying around. Careful to not repeat my timeline and get down well after Noon. 

Route: South Ridge
Posted On: 9/16/2012, By: Dathivas
Info: No snow anywhere on the trail. Small, short areas of mud which do not effect climbing difficulty. Route is still at summer conditions.