5/31/2014 Route: South Slopes Posted On: 6/1/2014, By: jrs1965 Info: Made it to the lower parking lot in the CRV by 3:30 AM. A few bare spots but pretty much continuous snow from lower trail head to summit. Snow was fairly consolidated and frozen that early in the morning and I made it back to the car before 9 AM so post-holing not a huge issue. Saw some recent slide activity on both sides of the basin. The lower couloir had a couple of recent slides but these were actually better to climb up since the snow was more consolidated. Upper couloir had similar conditions. The "V-Notch" at the top of the upper couloir was completely filled in with snow. I bypassed the V-Notch by going to the right and was easily able to climb over the small ridge with crampons. Notch to summit was a breeze, still plenty of snow on the summit. Coming down I was able to glissade most of the lower gully! Pics: 1. Upper Parking lot 2. Looking down lower gully 3. Looking down upper couloir 4. The V-Notch |
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5/17/2014 Route: South Slopes Posted On: 5/17/2014, By: jmc5040 Info: Snow conditions are spring-like below 12,500-ft on sun exposed slopes. Above 12,500 there was a 1-in thick sun crust with unconsolidated powder below on top of the firm layer prior to the storm early this week. Collapsing was noticed in the flats, but no instability was noted ascending the Lavender Col. The Lavender Couloir (SE Aspect) was creamy powder with a slight sun crust near the top of the couloir. The crux exit onto the south face consisted of snow climbing through a chopped out window in the cornice. The exit was much easier than anticipated on mostly ~65 degree snow for a short distance followed by a brief steeper section where I shimmed myself up and over. I was able to ski direct off the summit and into the Lavender Couloir through the same window climbed through. Note in the photo of the face from the summit (#3) a team building an anchor to drop into the Snake Couloir. Just below the team is the window through the cornice to exit/enter the Lavender Couloir. The Birthday Chutes were filled with wet slide debris from prior days. A wet slide was noted from a prior day in the Lavender Col that released midway up and ran to near the base. Road is in good condition and was able to make it to the restroom parking area in a Subaru Outback (8.7-in clearance). |
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9/23/2013 Route: South Slopes Posted On: 9/23/2013, By: jchapell Info: The snow has melted from much below the gulley, but the gully itself and Lavendar Col were full of deep (8-12") snow. Will probably melt quickly in coming days. The snow compacted very easily, I don't think you could have slid if you tried. We summitted with poles, gaiters, and microspikes. The V-notch was full of snow and slick, - we took 10 minutes to clear snow/ice from holds before attempting a hairy climb. |
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7/20/2013 Route: South Slopes Posted On: 7/21/2013, By: AlabamaTLC Info: Col snow free. |
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7/12/2013 Route: South Slopes Posted On: 7/13/2013, By: DRAspen Info: On July 12, 2013 we departed the lower trailhead at 8:10 a.m. or so. The route to the base slope was relatively dry after a storm the night before. Footing was easiest to the left of center up the slope to the col. Left at the Col we heard reports of slippery snow up the main gully, we took the narrow gully to the left. It was wet and some loose rocks with snow towards the upper reach of the gully where we took a hook left through a hole in the rock. Navigating to the top from there was dry and good conditions. On the return we past the "hole in the rock" and navigated down through the steeper rocks just past both gullies and snowfields. We had a 13 year old in tow and the route proved to be a good choice. |
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7/5/2013 Route: South Slopes Posted On: 7/6/2013, By: nyker Info: Standard Route from Yankee Boy Basin still has snow in the upper couloir you must pass through to get to the top, about a 100ft worth in the steep section. There are steps kicked in here and there, though traction and an axe would be helpful. Two people slipped on it yesterday sliding several feet: I caught one of them, literally before they would have slid into a rock. |
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6/24/2013 Route: Southwest Ridge Posted On: 6/24/2013, By: Shawnee Bob Info: Going up the southwest Ridge, it's mostly free of snow. What is there is mostly avoidable or bootpacked and hard enough early in the day that's it's easily negotiable. Going up the standard, the top half of the gully leading to the notch is still mostly filled with snow. Recommend an ice axe and crampons, and on either route, wear a brain bucket. |
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6/23/2013 Route: South Slopes Posted On: 6/25/2013, By: Falconerd Info: The majority of the route was passable rocky scree as expected. The small gully that ascends from 13,5 to 14,000 ft was about 2/3s filled with snow. The snow was packed into steps from previous hikers, but by the late morning it was starting to get soft and easily slid out from under me. Doing this climb without crampons was frankly stupid. The way down took about an hour to get past the snow. Crampons at the very least and an ice axe are recommended for the near future. |
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6/11/2013 Route: Southwest Ridge Posted On: 6/11/2013, By: Nelson Info: I climbed the SW ridge today and it is in excellent condition. I had crampons on and was using the ax from 13,150 to 13650. This is about 75% snow. Above that to the summit it was pretty clean. It was very windy today and this kept the snow firm so you really did need the hardware. After you go through the notch at 13,500 you descend on snow and the reascend on snow up to 13,650. All this snow was very firm. I descended the standard route. This is 80% snow and was firm enough that I put the spikes back on. The good news is the notch was pretty much melted out and I got through this pretty much like in summer. I did not have to do the class4 high descent. |
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6/9/2013 Route: East Slopes - from Blaine Basin Posted On: 6/10/2013, By: esagas Info: Went up the Snake couloir (from Blaine Basin) and the snow was in great shape. Descended via the Lavender Col and the snow was getting really soft, so start early. I saw people ascending the Col at around 11:00 am, way too late! Pic 1 - a close up with Snake Couloir on the right. Pic 2 - Looking down Snake Couloir from the turn past the constriction. Pic 3 - the Lavender Col from Blaine Basin. Pic 4 - SW ridge. |
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6/3/2013 Route: South Slopes Posted On: 6/3/2013, By: --bb-- Info: Road to lower TH - dry with minor stream crossings; road to upper TH - intermittent snow then full snow higher (no one has gotten up there yet); hike to Blue Lakes Pass - intermittent snow; from upper TH to couloir - snow patches to start then full snow in gulley; soft snow requires crampons and ice axe; the "V" notch (V) is blocked with snow - continue up higher and over rocks to left. |
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5/24/2013 Route: Southwest Ridge Posted On: 5/24/2013, By: Wentzl Info: No snowshoes or skis needed this week on ascent. Melting out fast. Recent dust storms left lots of dirt on the slopes, will speed melt considerably. Started at 11 and snow firm all the way to summit via SW Ridge. Crampons optional, axe essential. Short sections of steep snow and some 4th class rock this time of year on that route. Moderate postholing on the upper slopes via standard route (Lavender Col) on descent. Left summit at 2:00 and down by 3:00. |
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5/11/2013 Route: South Slopes Posted On: 5/12/2013, By: Wentzl Info: Road clear to outhouse and recently improved. Any vehicle can easily get to Governor Basin. Ski conditions are excellent. Very wintry conditions on top. |
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3/30/2013 Route: South Slopes Posted On: 4/1/2013, By: skitexas Info: Snowboarded the Snake Couloir via Lavender Couloir on Saturday. Road was plowed to immediately past Revenue Mine, yet the road closure yields walking from the CATs lower down. Approach snow conditions were sun affected, with supportive crust in the AM and minimal wet-slide activity observed in the PM. We took the climber-left option of the most recent trip report, and felt the scrambling at the top of the lavender couloir to gain the summit ridge was about 4th class and achievable with a full pack and snowboard without roping up, yet had consequential fall exposure. The rappel anchor off of the summit consists of two new spectra/dyneema runners, a nylon runner, and a donated locker which should remain bomber for the rest of the season (see image). At the moment, a 30m rappel will leave you on a 70 degree slope with little option for comfortable ski transition without building an anchor with limited protection potential. True to legend, the Snake skied in predominantly consistent powder conditions and was an all-time classic experience! |
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12/31/2012 Route: South Slopes Posted On: 1/1/2013, By: mtn_nut Info: road is closed a half mile above the thistledown campground at ~9100‘. however the camp bird and revenue mine are still open and operating, and are plowing the road to junction of governor basin road and Yankee boy basin road at approximately 10,800‘. the snow on the road above the junction is 2-3 feet deep, and my friend and i put down a skin track for a half mile or so since we were just going up to enjoy the weather and the scenery, not to climb. because the road is being plowed, there is no snow base to the road and it cannot be skied below the junction unless you want to ski on gravel. |
