Capitol Peak

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 7/14/2025, By: 5meodimte
Info: A few low angle snow fields. We didn't use traction, axes, gaiters, or any of the like. Most were avoidable with small detours. Went up, over, and around K2 a few times. No snow near it either. Route is in great shape. 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 7/14/2025, By: barnsy12
Info: Still a couple of snow spots that can't be avoided, but were hard packed in the morning and easy to traverse. Softened quickly by 10 am on the return, but was able to side step down safely. Used poles only, brought microspikes but didn't use them. Looks like the basin melted significantly over the last week. Side note, I wouldn't recommend ditching your poles at the K2 saddle unless you want the marmots to destroy them. 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 7/8/2025, By: johnfegy
Info: Went up Capitol yesterday. Started before sunrise and was back early afternoon. Conditions were excellent from K2 to the summit. Still several snow fields and drifts in the bowl before K2, but it was all soft and easy to traverse. I wore trail runners and used poles to K2, but no additional traction or spikes. I will say having done nearly all the peaks now, this one really rattled me a bit. The portion from K2 to the summit is definitely dramatic and technical. Be careful up there everyone. 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 7/6/2025, By: Caitlin123
Info: As others have said, the ridge from K2 to Capitol is snow free. The basin below K2 still contains snow, as do some of the gullys directly after the saddle. We were able to cross the gullys early in the morning in trail runners, kicking/ edging steps but it required some care and we avoided snowfields where possible as they were interspersed with bands of rocks and we didn't want to take traction on and off (group had a mix of traction types). On the steeper slopes up to K2 we used micro-spikes / trail crampons (Petzl Leopards) and found it much faster than rock hopping. We carried axes but never took them out. On the descent from K2, we opted to weave our way down through the bolders rather than going down the steeper snow slopes but likely could've plunged stepped or glisaaded. The lower snowfields were easy to cross plunge stepping on the descent late morning. 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 7/1/2025, By: ericolson
Info: Awesome day, started around 4 am got past the saddle, there is still some snowfields but completely manageable with just micro spikes and pole, ice axe something to grip onto. Past k2 snow free would recommend going up k2 instead of around because it looked like still a little snow on the trail around. most satisfying summit i've done so far so fucin pretty 

Route: Direct Ridge
Posted On: 6/29/2025, By: Exp_de_hills
Info: At the saddle, my friend and I opted to explore the direct ridge route rather than descend into the basin. We thoroughly enjoyed the experience (snow-free), but it requires comfort with low 5th-class climbing. If you are comfortable with this level, I highly recommend it! For our return, after k2 we took the standard route and descended into the basin. We navigated over the larger boulders aiming down and left to bypass some of the snow higher up then transitioned to the snow field and switched between rock hopping and glissading for the rest of the descent back over to the saddle. We did not carry ice axes or crampons BUT I believe micro-spikes or crampons, along with an axe or pole, would have been beneficial if we had ascended the snow in the basin instead of just descending it. Know your own comfort level on dense snow and plan accordingly. 

Route: Direct ridge
Posted On: 6/25/2025, By: Ecravy
Info: Saw a review from a few days ago that no ice axe or crampons were needed. This is not correct. If you do the standard route, you will need an ice axe and crampons as of 6/25. We ascended the direct ridge to avoid the snow which was much safer. Would not recommend if you are not comfortable with low class 5. 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 6/22/2025, By: Ellwood
Info: Hiked in Friday night and camped at Capitol Lake. Approaching via the Capitol ditch route saves a couple of tricky creek crossings. Super windy conditions but bluebird summit on Saturday. After the saddle there is still some snow but made it up with only microspikes. Snow free from the K2 approach to summit. *Updating after the 6/24/25 report for clarification: Summitted with ice axe and microspikes. Went off trail to "rock island hop" through the snowfields after the saddle. Direct route still requires crampons. 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 5/10/2025, By: FrankP
Info: We tried for a Capitol descent yesterday. Spoiler alert- success was not found. We started at midnight and did the slow grind up to moon lake and through the couloir into Pierre Lakes basin. As dawn started to break, a squall moved in and enveloped us in dense fog. We started up what we thought was secret chute, but as the fog started to burn off and the couloir turned into full blown mixed ice climbing, we realized something wasn't right. Much to our chagrin, after burning too much time and a slow retreat off the ice, we realized our mistake. At that point the snow was heating up and the mountain was hurling little missiles at us. The day was lost. A humbling lesson, but still a beautiful adventure. Pierre Lakes Basin is like no other. After getting a view of the upper face, I'd say it looks very thin this year. Doable, sure. Worth it, hard to say. If you go, don't follow our tracks. 

Route: distant views
Posted On: 3/23/2025, By: WillRobnett
Info: Great view from back side of Snowmass Village 

Route: Via Moon Lake
Posted On: 11/16/2024, By: daway8
Info: Didn't summit but trenched the first 5 miles. Actually the portion overlapping the trail for Snowmass was already well tracked but no recent tracks on the trail going to Capitol via Moon Lake. Stream had snow on both banks but was still flowing vigorously. Water shoes worked great for the crossing - water was about halfway to the knees. Very glad to have a lightweight towel to quickly dry off. Only a few inches of snow at the trailhead and intermittent coverage in the first couple miles. Trail was easy to follow despite no signs of anyone out there after the latest storm since the ground is indented along the path so I followed the dip in the snow. By about 3mi from the trailhead snow was deep enough to be annoying - enough to slow you down but not really enough for good flotation and it was all very powdery. But the snow soon got deep enough that snowshoes were finally useful. At 4mi in I left the trail, having discovered last spring that the summer trail soon puts you on steep side hilling that's treacherous with snow. So I veered left into the valley I had taken on exiting last spring but veered too far left hoping to cut over the stream and get on level ground. That was an epic route finding blunder - worst deadfall ever and rather than crossing the stream once and being done with it I ended up hitting streams, ponds, etc at least 10 times, once precariously traversing a snow covered log in snowshoes with exposed water on either side. At least a couple feet of snow made this nearly disastrous. By the time I finally got through to a clearing at 10k I had wasted so much time and energy that I decided to not bother going on but instead scouted out a better return. The key to that section is, a little before the summer trail starts taking you up along the side of steep hills, drop left into the valley, but stay somewhat close to the base of the hill, crossing the stream and then following its left bank as you head towards Moon Lake. There's still some deadfall and you'll cross water a couple times but not near as bad as if you go too far left into the trees. I'll add a snapshot of my tracks showing where to go and not go. 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 10/16/2024, By: stefanb
Info: Some intermittent snow/ice from the downclimb of K2 and parts of the ridge to Capitol's summit. The upcoming forecast will likely change this... 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 10/14/2024, By: masonzastrow
Info: Almost entirely clear as of Sunday. One icy step is required on the ascent up K2, and there's some snow in the boulder field (especially toward the blocker stuff to the north) but all in all still summer conditions. We had maybe 15 minutes of very light snow on the way back to the car but not enough to stick. Winter is coming soon! 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 10/10/2024, By: runbyu1
Info: Summer conditions for the most part. The peak appears to have a lot of snow on it from the trailhead and approach, but the route is mostly clear. We only had 2 or 3 steps total where our feet had to touch snow. Perfect day to summit! 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 10/11/2024, By: rwhyde
Info: Summitted 10/10. Decent conditions. Snow mostly avoidable until K2. Went over vs around to avoid as had no traction and more ice on sides than expected. Down climb off K2 I got off route in dark and that was probably crux for my day. Hit knife edge well before daylight and high wind / snow blowing off ledges / biting cold made it seem much less late summer conditions until ~10A. Definitely warmed up later. Winter felt closer up top than below. Would pack accordingly. Left car @ 0130 Saddle @ 0430 Summit capitol @ 0645 Back on K2 @ 0815 Return to Car @ 1200