Mt. Eolus

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 7/21/2018, By: alyannkar
Info: Summer conditions. There are SO many cairns up the last pitch. It really is choose-your-own-adventure up there. I backpacked into Chicago Basin from the Purgatory Trailhead the afternoon of 7/19 and then summitted all four peaks the morning of 7/20 and backpacked out later that afternoon. Not quite sure why the longer route to the basin gets a bad rap. It was a gorgeous and mellow trail, easy hiking. There are several trees down towards the end of the Animas River Trail in the mile before the bridge and register where the trail intersects with the Needle Creek Trail and the train stop. The Needle Creek Trail has even more trees down. Otherwise, both trails are in great condition. In Chicago Basin, insects and goats are in full swing. The lower you camp in the basin (or just before the basin), the less you will have to deal with the goats swarming. The trail up to Twin Lakes is beautiful (thanks Colorado Fourteeners Initiative!) and is in summer conditions, as well. 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 6/24/2018, By: Beas
Info: The class 2 ramp as well as the trail just below it have some icy sections. Traction is definitely overkill; just keep your eyes peeled or you might slip. 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 6/8/2018, By: RWSchaffer
Info: Aside from a little bit of snow around Twin Lakes, there is no snow until you approach the ramp. There is significant snow below the ramp (first picture) and again below the Eolus-North Eolus ridge (second picture). Once the ridge has been reached, there is no snow on the ridge to North Eolus and only one patch, at the end of the Catwalk (third picture), to negotiate on the way to Eolus. By late afternoon, all of this snow had turned to mush. I used ice axe and spikes. The 416 fire north of Durango has stopped the train and closed US 550 below the Purgatory Trail trailhead (the trailhead is on the east side of US 550 at mile marker 49; closure was south of mile marker 43 when I left and mile marker 44 when I returned). This kept the crowds away; I didn't see another person from when I left the trailhead until I returned. It also makes the air slightly hazy and smelling of smoke, though most smoke has been staying west of Chicago Basin. The final picture looks west from the summit of Eolus. 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 5/31/2018, By: Wandertheworld
Info: Just about summer conditions up there already. A little bit of snow at Twin Lakes, and then continuous snow on the trail starting at about 13,300ish just before the ramp that goes up to the flat area before the ridge (near 13,700'). I had cached my traction and snow gear in Chicago Basin and was able to avoid the snow by scrambling up the slabs on the right edge of the ramp. A few more unavoidable snowy sections before the green gully where I was happy to have a trekking pole for balance on the steeps, but I would consider it a luxury. The remaining route is mostly dry and in great shape. A note about the Chicago Basin approach: as this was my first time into the area, I was surprised by the amount of downed trees going across the trail - about 20 or so in total. At one point I thought I might have unknowingly gotten onto a wrong trail and they were put across as blockers, but no. Hopefully they will get cleared out soon, as awkwardly straddling a bunch of tree trunks with a 40 lb pack on your 120 lb frame is super fun. PS: to the rad random dude (Dustin, I think?) that gifted me his MSR spoon after I forgot my cutlery, THANK YOU! So much better than eating Kung Pao noodles with whittled sticks from the forest. 

Route: All peaks
Posted On: 12/30/2017, By: Furthermore
Info: I haven't seen anything like this for Chicago Basin in the 15 years I've been watching winter conditions. These are the best conditions you're going to get. I did not need snowshoes, shovel (for camp) crampons or ice axe. I might recommend an axe for Eolus if you're uncomfortable on snowy ledges. I didn't use micro spikes but they are highly recommended for some ice flow crossings on the approach as Danny was happy to have them. Purgatory to Cascade: light snow cover to mostly no snow cover. Cascade to Needle Creek: light to no snow cover. Needle Creek to Chi Basin: light snow cover, easy booting; ~2 inches above ~10,800 Eolus Group: Snow slopes to saddle with some powder trail breaking up to ankle deep. Snow scramble to gain saddle with very minimal to zero avalanche concerns. North Eolus: Mostly dry some light areas of snow cover. Eolus: Northwest side of the ridge is dry. We stayed on ridge crest. Fun Class 3-4 scramble. I would avoid normal southeast side of the ridge due to powdery snow. Sunlight Spire: mostly dry scramble to approach pitch. Approach pitch and climb dry. The route goes into the sun around 11AM. Sunlight: Mostly dry, some snow. It should be noted there is some snow in basin leading up to the peak with areas of thigh deep snow that can be avoided. Windom: Snow, up to shin deep in the basin between Sunlight and Windom. Some snow cover on the ridge. Pic 1: Snow in basin leading to Eolus Pic 2: Eolus ridge Pic 3: Sunlight Pic 4: Windom from Sunlight Pic 5: Eolus group Pic 6: Basin leading to Sunlight 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 11/16/2017, By: ScreeSurfer
Info: Purgatory trail and Animas River trail are completely dry to Needle creek. Needle creek trail is mostly dry until around 10000ft where you encounter 2-5" of snow (crusty in the morning, softer later in the day). A few short sections of ice where water runs down the trail. Patches of shallow snow from the basin up to Twin Lakes. Average of 6" of snow to the Eolus, N. Eolus saddle but you can do some rock hopping. Catwalk is dry and I ascended the Northeast Ridge direct as it was mostly dry. I descended to the catwalk along the standard route and some of the ledges had knee deep snow. N.Eolus was mostly dry. Twinlakes basin contained 6-8" of snow, Sunlight summit was dry. Midway traverse to Windom/Peak 18 saddle had 6-8" of snow and the upper ridge to Windom Peak was mostly dry. I did not use any traction with relatively warm conditions. 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 9/15/2017, By: chicagostylehotdog
Info: Clear weather all day on Wednesday. Routes were dry on Eolus, N. Eolus, Windom, and Sunlight, with the exception of a tiny amount of snow blocking the trail between the lakes and the headwall leading to Windom and Sunlight. Thursday was good weather until noon when the clouds started spitting at us. Driving out Thursday afternoon you could see the storm rolling in. Ominous black clouds. With snow in the forecast, we may have seen the last of the dry, summer conditions in Chicago Basin. Only saw 3 goats, all together around 12,000' on the trail. One was digging at a wet spot where somebody had probably peed. Please keep your peeing off trail and on rocks so the goats don't destroy vegetation or the trail. Bagged all 4 14ers in Chicago basin in 9.5h camp to camp (camped at 11k). Leaves are starting to turn. 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 9/9/2017, By: kayleenann8
Info: Trail is dry and clear. There are an insane number of cairns on Eolus. Use your own judgment for route finding. 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 9/5/2017, By: STIBungy
Info: The catwalk was dry. That loose block is still up there. We tried to scratch an X on it. I stepped on it on the way up and down and it does move but feels pretty solid. I guess it'd catch you off guard if not expecting it. There are 2 small snowfields to cross on the way up to Twin Lakes. Just keep your weight over your feet and you'll be fine crossing as there are flat tracks in place. 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 8/18/2017, By: jmanner
Info: As previously stated there is a large block on the catwalk which is no longer attached to it's brethren. There are a fair amount of small rocks marking it. Keep a look out for it, it is about two thirds the way to Eolus on the catwalk. Otherwise the route is dry and fun. 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 8/7/2017, By: Abominabl31
Info: Loose Boulders Present On The Catwalk Route: Be aware that in addition to the usual risk of dislodging loose San Juan stone, there is one particularly loose boulder near the middle of the catwalk section - I call it out because it's a large, flat stone about the size of a coffee table which looks very enticing to step across. However just putting a hand on it I was able to feel it move a few inches. I worry what would happen if one stepped or stood to the South (Chicago Basin) side of that stone! Especially since its fall is over the ramp and gulch trail areas below. Sorry I don't have a picture, but be watchful where you step on the catwalk in general. Also, as always, be mindful of loose rock throughout the summit area - especially on the final ascent to Eolus summit after the catwalk. Overall, I made the summit on 7/22 and found the conditions pretty great beyond rockfall risk. There was some slushy snow, but I didn't feel a need for any traction device beyond my trail runners. Happy trails! 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 7/19/2017, By: metalmountain
Info: There is still some snow to contend with going up the basin below Eolus, and also below the ridge between Eolus and North Eolus. We saw folks managing without traction or axes, but we were happy to have axes with us. 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 7/7/2017, By: glenmiz
Info: Snow in basin up to base of ramp. Ramp is dry but there's a snowfield above the ramp to below the rocks/saddle. Early, the snow was firm with steps and snow cups so crampons weren't necessary. Coming down about 9am the snow was soft and slippery and I put the crampons on and had my axe out. Face is dry except for one snow patch which isn't a problem to go below (I did on the way up, but ended up coming down a slightly different path and having to go through it - not recommended). 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 7/5/2017, By: Stiffler_from_Denver
Info: Still a lot of snow fields to cross on the standard route to Eolus. Micro spikes aren't necessary but an ice axe is highly recommended, particularly for the descent. We witness a few groups that were glissading without axes, lost control narrowly avoiding rocks and were lucky to not get injured. 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 6/29/2017, By: pmeadco
Info: DaveB's assessment is spot on. Standard snow for this time of year. I didn't climb it this trip, but here is a picture from Windom.