Windom Peak

Route: Chicago Basin Approach
Posted On: 7/14/2025, By: zackj99
Info: Pretty much unavoidable snow at about 13,100' but no problem in trail runners with no spikes. Beautiful weekend at Chicago Basin with a ton of hikers out and about! 

Route: Chicago Basin Approach
Posted On: 7/7/2025, By: psa954hiker
Info: We climbed Eolus and N Eolus, but took this photo of the saddle between Windom and Sunlight. Some snowfields remain. 

Route: Chicago Basin Approach
Posted On: 7/2/2025, By: kylefwip
Info: Good bit of snow on the north face on windom, but you can stick to rock bands up to the saddle and only need about 100 ft of low angle snow crossing to get onto the ridge. Some small snow patches going up the ridge near the peak, but avoidable. Start early, post holing is a problem. If you want to glissade down on the north face, ice axe is fairly necessary. I summited with just trekking poles, but an ice axe and microspikes would've been helpful. 

Route: Chicago Basin Approach
Posted On: 7/3/2025, By: LSchmidt75
Info: Did the Sunlight to Windom combo and the Windom snow field is still significant / unavoidable. We had microspikes and ice axes and were happy to have both; we talked to groups that managed it without, but wouldn't personally recommend if you're going in the next few weeks. The run-out on the snow field is generally safe, which I know well because I took a free ride down after a fall and had to hike back up. Spicy postholing up to our waists when the sun comes out - if you're doing the combo, consider climbing Windom first to hit the snow field early in the morning. Fun and safe glissade down! For the summit push - there is still significant snow at the top and all available routes we found were Class III with significant route finding and bouldering / upper body work. Very achievable but leave yourself time to route-find at the top. 

Route: Chicago Basin Approach
Posted On: 6/27/2025, By: puckpunk
Info: There is still considerable snow in the valley between Windom & Sunlight. Depending on the direction and pitch, it ranges from solid to waist deep (and maybe bottomless!) postholey. You will encounter snow as soon as you reach Twin Lakes. It is possible to stay above the snow and trail for much of the initial ascent, but you will eventually be crossing a large snowfield to reach the saddle. From there, it appears clear, but there will be more areas of snow on the climb to the summit, and you may have to get creative in your route finding in a few places. If attempting both Windom and Sunlight, starting with Windom will allow you to glissade from the saddle (whee!) right to the cairn that marks the trail between, and save some steps and time. 

Route: Chicago Basin Approach
Posted On: 5/15/2025, By: AlpineSplit
Info: Still plenty of good riding to be had on Windom, the Widowmaker is getting a little thin but not bad. It did not warm up until very late in the day. 

Route: Chicago Basin Approach
Posted On: 12/23/2024, By: paulbarish
Info: *Copy and pasted from my post in sunlight peak* Very safe but physically brutal! Took the train to Cascade Wye (much better than hiking from purgatory like I did for Eolus a few winter ago). Expected to be on skis out of the gate but ended up walking in approach shoes until shortly after needle creek when I could FINALLY switch to skinning! Luckily there were plenty of down trees blocking the trail so lots of transitions haha. Camped at 11k. Many running water sources available just above. At least 3 good ones within 20 of the trail. The trail is mixed snow and rock until Twin Lakes where it was hard packed all the way until 13k where you turn onto the south face of sunlight. Then it needed flotation but skied like a sheet of ice (over to Windom). Skinning this section was heinous and Ski crampons would have been awesome. Upper mountain had post holing that could be avoided with extra scrambling. Overall the snow was soft and not very supportive. Summit block was tricky in ski boots, but it was my first time so maybe I could have done it an easier way . I skied from approximately 13700 over to Windom trying to lose as little vert as possible, then stashed skis and took a Rocky rib on the north face to link with the ridge. I skied from 13400 to twin lakes easily then on and off skis until the prominent switchback in the trail around 11800. I took skis on and off probably 30 times in the next few miles and I skied through a lot of stuff that people who care about their skis wouldnt have! Then proceeded to pack up camp and go all the way back to Cascade Wye to catch the train. Overall, I think snowshoes would have been easier and saved a lot of energy, probably in the end faster. More snow will help a lot. Yesterday was a 22.5 hour day and I suffered more than I expected! I hope this helps someone. Happy solstice!!! Pics on the sunlight page 

Route: Chicago Basin Approach
Posted On: 9/28/2024, By: null_pointer
Info: Main route has snow. I was able to avoid it to 13,700 feet, but it becomes very heard to avoid after that. If you stick to the climbers route above this...you will be crossing snow. Snow is 2-4 inches deep. It was soft and wet in the afternoon, which made the wet shoes and rock combination dangerous. I followed the ridgeline proper back down to about 13,700 which avoids 95% of the snow. I would not attempt this after an overnight freeze. Just way too much risk of a fall. There is also snow lower near as you attempt to gain the ridge, but you can just traverse below this. See pics. 

Route: Chicago Basin Approach
Posted On: 9/28/2024, By: null_pointer
Info: Main route has snow. I was able to avoid it to 13,700 feet, but it becomes very heard to avoid after that. If you stick to the climbers route above this...you will be crossing snow. Snow is 2-4 inches deep. It was soft and wet in the afternoon, which made the wet shoes and rock combination dangerous. I followed the ridgeline proper back down to about 13,700 which avoids 95% of the snow. I would not attempt this after an overnight freeze. Just way too much risk of a fall. There is also snow lower near as you attempt to gain the ridge, but you can just traverse below this. See pics. 

Route: Chicago Basin Approach
Posted On: 8/10/2024, By: jalexander
Info: Summited Windom with my 11 year old daughter on 7/31, great conditions. Has been raining some recently but our few days on the trail were perfect. We hiked off the train. Many folks grabbing all 4 in Chicago Basin on the same day, we just did Windom. Trail on Windom near the top is a little hard to find. I was "off" more than "on" trail in the last 1/2 mile, but there are many ways to scramble to the top. All Trails is great, but not spot on near summit. Cairns mark the whole way, you can see them much better on the way down. Enough cell service on top to call and check in with my wife. 

Route: Chicago Basin Approach
Posted On: 7/15/2024, By: caesarsalad
Info: A couple small snowfields to cross just before the standard Sunlight/Windom split. I did Windom on 7/14 in the early morning (crossing snowfields before sunrise), and they were slick and difficult to cross quickly. Due to lots of rain on the 13ths, the footsteps in them weren't super helpful. Would have been nice to have spikes for those 5 minutes. On the way back, I took the upper route which bypassed the sloped snowfields, and the incoming sun seemed to be quickly softening them. 

Route: Chicago Basin Approach
Posted On: 7/18/2024, By: jacobslaton
Info: Climbed Sunlight and Windom on July 12. Conditions were great. Very little snow other than one small patch not far from twin lakes. No traction needed. The approach to the Sunlight ridge was dusty and loose, but not terrible. On Windom, we saw several groups descending via one of the gullys on the east side, which they said they regretted once they were down due to loose rocks and overall steepness. Some cairns in that area likely need to be demolished. The standard route on the ridge is solid and fairly easy to navigate with good cairns throughout. The lakes serve as a good water source, but there is also a trickle of snowmelt that runs through the valley between Sunlight and Windom where you can refill bottles if needed. Below the lakes, water is plentiful and easy to access. In the basin, mosquitos and biting flies were bad so be prepared for those. 

Route: Chicago Basin Approach
Posted On: 7/1/2024, By: tlinkus
Info: Most snow of all the peaks, that being said, we were able to summit without crampons, ice axe, or spikes. Can either go straight up lower snowfields to saddle or navigate through snow-free rocky areas. Only one real snowfield up high that was probably about 10ft and could be bypassed with a little scrambling. Overall would recommend spikes if not comfortable crossing snow, but definitely not mandatory. 

Route: Chicago Basin Approach
Posted On: 10/23/2023, By: awestra
Info: Windom, Eolus / N Eolus, Sunlight from Purgatory Flats On 10/22, windom had snow between rocks on north slope (see pic). Gaiters would've been nice but managed by rock-hopping. Sunlight standard route was dry. Eolus had only a couple tiny spots of snow, did not need traction 

Route: West Ridge
Posted On: 9/26/2023, By: JasonCrane
Info: Note - I summited Sunlight & wasn't able to grab Windom. The north face of Windom has a decent amount of snow below the West Ridge route. Those gullies look to be filled in for the season. From a distance, if you view Windom from Eolus, the south face is a stark contrast of dry rock versus the snowy north face. Looks like a line drawn along the ridge separating the two.