Sunlight Peak

Route: Chicago Basin Approach
Posted On: 7/15/2025, By: climbingyogi
Info: In photo 21, I chose the right line on the ascent. Was fine going up that way, but there's some snow and ice on the ground right below it so I was hesitant to come down that way. Ended up taking the left line on the descent and that worked well. Did Windom first and crossed over to Sunlight around 830/9am. Was able to band together a section of rocks for the crossover that only required a small section of butt sliding (looked like the post holes would be pretty deep so I wanted to avoid that). 

Route: Chicago Basin Approach
Posted On: 7/7/2025, By: psa954hiker
Info: We climbed Eolus and N Eolus, but took this photo of the saddle between Windom and Sunlight. Some snowfields remain. 

Route: Chicago Basin Approach
Posted On: 7/2/2025, By: kylefwip
Info: No snow going up standard route, but some decent snow if you cross from higher up on windom over to sunlight or vice versa. 

Route: Chicago Basin Approach
Posted On: 7/3/2025, By: LSchmidt75
Info: Snow clear on Sunlight with the exception of some relatively small non-technical snow fields starting at Twin Lakes. Once we reached the final push to the summit, we found some snow and ice that was manageable but took some time to navigate, especially on the approach to the keyhole. We did the Sunlight / Windom combo and were happy to have microspikes and ice axes for the Windom snow field (see the separate Windom peak conditions report). The most efficient route for the combo would normally be Sunlight then Windom - avoiding a bigger descent - but if you're going in the next 1-2 weeks, consider doing Windom first to hit the snow field early in the morning to avoid some bad postholing when the sun warms up. We talked to a few groups who did Windom to Sunlight and it worked well for them. Would consider current routes up Sunlight to be a Class III (avoiding snow and ice at the top), not counting the Class IV "leap of faith" to the summit block - which we did not attempt! - significant upper body scrambling and route-finding. 

Route: Chicago Basin Approach
Posted On: 6/27/2025, By: puckpunk
Info: There is still considerable snow in the valley between Windom & Sunlight. Depending on the direction and pitch, it ranges from solid to waist deep (and maybe bottomless!) postholey. You will encounter snow as soon as you reach Twin Lakes. If attempting both Windom and Sunlight, starting with Windom will allow you to glissade from the saddle (whee!) right to the cairn that marks the trail between, and save some steps and time. From there, you can alternate between snow & rock patches before meeting the ascent trail on the other side. The climb up the gully is loose, and there are 2 snow patches left in the final class 3 terrain to the top, but they are short and manageable. The trip back to Twin Lakes was later in the day and the snow below was much softer at that point, but there were still some spots where you could breathe deep, think feather light thoughts, and stay on top! 

Route: Chicago Basin Approach
Posted On: 5/15/2025, By: AlpineSplit
Info: Sunlight has been a bit sun affected, riding was just OK. Things are melting off the summit and probably won't be ridable after a few more days of sun. Lots of shedding on the main face. 

Route: Chicago Basin Approach
Posted On: 12/23/2024, By: paulbarish
Info: Very safe but physically brutal! Took the train to Cascade Wye (much better than hiking from purgatory like I did for Eolus a few winter ago). Expected to be on skis out of the gate but ended up walking in approach shoes until shortly after needle creek when I could FINALLY switch to skinning! Luckily there were plenty of down trees blocking the trail so lots of transitions haha. Camped at 11k. Many running water sources available just above. At least 3 good ones within 20 of the trail. The trail is mixed snow and rock until Twin Lakes where it was hard packed all the way until 13k where you turn onto the south face of sunlight. Then it needed flotation but skied like a sheet of ice (over to Windom). Skinning this section was heinous and Ski crampons would have been awesome. Upper mountain had post holing that could be avoided with extra scrambling. Overall the snow was soft and not very supportive. Summit block was tricky in ski boots, but it was my first time so maybe I could have done it an easier way . I skied from approximately 13700 over to Windom trying to lose as little vert as possible, then stashed skis and took a Rocky rib on the north face to link with the ridge. I skied from 13400 to twin lakes easily then on and off skis until the prominent switchback in the trail around 11800. I took skis on and off probably 30 times in the next few miles and I skied through a lot of stuff that people who care about their skis wouldnt have! Then proceeded to pack up camp and go all the way back to Cascade Wye to catch the train. Overall, I think snowshoes would have been easier and saved a lot of energy, probably in the end faster. More snow will help a lot. Yesterday was a 22.5 hour day and I suffered more than I expected! I hope this helps someone. Happy solstice!!! 

Route: Chicago Basin Approach
Posted On: 10/8/2024, By: null_pointer
Info: Sunlight Peak on the south facing side is bone dry. The route to the top is in summer conditions. 

Route: Chicago Basin Approach
Posted On: 9/28/2024, By: null_pointer
Info: Did not attempt this but thought the pics would be helpful from Windom. Route appears clear with no snow (confirmed by couple on the train). See pics. 

Route: Chicago Basin Approach
Posted On: 8/7/2024, By: ericd01
Info: Spectacular & remote location. Hiked 7hrs into Chicago basin after an Uber drop off at the Purgatory Flats TH. Overhead high pressure summer weather system weakens each afternoon with soaking drizzle, 5-min hail, and a cool refresh in the forest. Summer conditions allow for a light pack nonetheless a damp cold night in a hammock. Twin Lakes is without snow, lots of streams, and again refreshingly damp well cairned rock scramble to the top. 

Route: Chicago Basin Approach
Posted On: 7/15/2024, By: caesarsalad
Info: A couple small snowfields to cross just before the standard Sunlight/Windom split. We did Sunlight on 7/13 in the late morning, and they were soft enough to get good traction, but not soft enough to posthole. Didn't see any postholes from others. 

Route: Chicago Basin Approach
Posted On: 7/18/2024, By: jacobslaton
Info: Climbed Sunlight and Windom on July 12. Conditions were great. Very little snow other than one small patch not far from twin lakes. No traction needed. The approach to the Sunlight ridge was dusty and loose, but not terrible. On Windom, we saw several groups descending via one of the gullys on the east side, which they said they regretted once they were down due to loose rocks and overall steepness. Some cairns in that area likely need to be demolished. The standard route on the ridge is solid and fairly easy to navigate with good cairns throughout. The lakes serve as a good water source, but there is also a trickle of snowmelt that runs through the valley between Sunlight and Windom where you can refill bottles if needed. Below the lakes, water is plentiful and easy to access. In the basin, mosquitos and biting flies were bad so be prepared for those. 

Route: South Face
Posted On: 7/2/2024, By: ryantasto
Info: Climbed all four peaks on the 30th and really no need for traction, only a couple of patches to cross when traversing between sunlight and Windom but fairly flat/sun cupped 

Route: Chicago Basin Approach
Posted On: 7/1/2024, By: tlinkus
Info: Small snowfields on low-angle lower sections that are easily crossed without spikes or other gear. Minimal snow on upper portion that is easily bypassed/ walked through. Gravel/ rock on way up to saddle is super loose. No gear needed. 

Route: Chicago Basin Approach
Posted On: 6/13/2024, By: vagorsan
Info: Attempted on 13 June. I made it to 13,500 feet before deciding the icy slope was too steep for my comfort zone. There is still a couple feet of snow most of the ascent up Sunlight from the Sunlight/Windom turnoff junction: ICE AXE should be carried for safety. Firm snow before sunrise but quickly softens to posthole conditions. Would recommend planning to summit by sunrise to avoid too much postholing at least to the Windom/Sunlight turnoff, and definitely recommend an ice axe. I started at 0430 form the Chicago Basin, and that was a couple hours later than I should have started. Other than that, it is dry and beautiful all the way up to Chicago Basin and Twin Lakes. Wildflowers starting to bloom in the Basin, and leading up to it columbines are in full bloom! There is a slightly tricky stream crossing heading up to Twin Lakes but you can stay dry if you step carefully. There's a brief section after the frozen Twin Lakes that requires microspikes to be safe (no way around it... and this icy section typically stays in place into summer). Then there's a route up that avoids snow until you get to the turnoff between Windom and Sunlight at which point you need to have your ice axe ready just in case though the runoff is not crazy steep. Also, I know it's a weekday, but there were very few people in the Basin. Saw just 2 others camping, and saw one other who attempted Windom this morning. Be aware of critters too! I ran into 2 different people who had their hiking pole handles and hat chewed up by porcupines and rabbits. Definitely ensure you have a way to protect your food. So far, no insect issues though that will probably change soon.