9/1/2019 Route: South Face Posted On: 9/3/2019, By: wintersage Info: The report by bwleachuk is still highly accurate and helpful. |
|
8/19/2019 Route: South Face Posted On: 8/20/2019, By: Flyingfish Info: A few snow crossings to gain the upper basin but the crossings have a well worn trail with little slipping or postholing. From the base of the gully to the summit is dry. |
|
8/17/2019 Route: South Face Posted On: 8/19/2019, By: bwleachuk Info: Camped at 10'800" (lots of mosquitos, bring bug spray!). Climbed all 4 Chicago Basin 14-ers in a day. We woke at 2am, were on the trail at 2:30am, and returned back to camp by 2pm. We began with Windom, and worked our way right to left, finishing with Eolus. I highly recommend this approach because Windom is good warmup and can be more safely climbed with headlamps in the dark. From there, we could traverse over to Sunlight at 13,700' (small notch, higher than the saddle looking down into the "Backyard" bowl area), making the climb up Sunlight much easier. Microspikes are definitely advised for this traverse, but not absolutely necessary. Ice axe and crampons no longer needed. The climb up Eolus was straightforward. The catwalk looks scary but is never less than 4-5 wide, so exposure is manageable. I would grade Eolus difficult Class 3/easy Class 4 in the final sections, depending on the line. Lastly, be advised that the Durango-Silverton train broke down on 8/18, causing 3+ hour delays and leading to snarls in the reliability of the schedule. We took the train to Silverton instead of waiting for it to return, heading to Durango. We hitchhiked the 45 mins drive back from Silverton to Durango. Otherwise, I might still be sitting at the Needleton TH waiting for that damn train to arrive! |
|
8/15/2019 Route: South Face Posted On: 8/18/2019, By: gabsimonelouise Info: Climbed Sunlight, then Windom. Watch for loose dirt and rocks on Sunlight approach; helmet a good idea. Snow field (20'-30' wide?) to cross just above Twin Lakes with a shallow pitch, it was very packed down and easy to navigate with one pole and tennis shoes, glad to have pole because it would've been a nuisance to slip and have to climb back up, but not life-threatening. To get from Sunlight to Windom, you could likely avoid snow fields if you choose the right line. We chose an efficient line with two small (5 feet wide?) snow fields, again glad to have pole there. Arrived in Chicago Basin via Purgatory Flats, the entire 17 miles was in excellent shape! |
|
8/6/2019 Route: South Face Posted On: 8/11/2019, By: DevonK Info: Summited Sunlight and Windom on 8/6 and the Eolus-North Eolus combo on 8/7. Microspikes were very helpful but a mountaineering axe is no longer necessary. Trekking poles were helpful but not necessary. If you want to bring some sort of protection/traction for the snow I would recommend microspikes over anything else. The snow you encounter is all lower on the mountains. There is a snowfield just before the Eolus catwalk which was the most inconvenient place I had to deal with snow. Bring your bug spray for camping in the basin! |
|
8/5/2019 Route: South Face Posted On: 8/5/2019, By: pbergmaier Info: We summited all four peaks on 8/2 and 8/3. Lots of water on trail from the junction at 11,200' to Twin Lakes. No snow until you reach Twin Lakes. From Twin Lakes to the basin between Sunlight and Windom, you will encounter several very large snow fields that probably will not completely melt out this summer (photos 1 and 2). Traction still highly recommended, especially for early mornings. I used crampons, my buddies used a mix of both crampons and microspikes. I'd bet that you'll probably want traction through the end of August at least. We saw a few folks manage without, but again I wouldn't recommend doing so. The gully between Sunlight Peak and Sunlight Spire is almost completely free of snow, as is the remainder of the route to the summit. If attempting Sunlight AFTER Windom, there is a bootpack that contours across the snowfield from the Windom saddle to the bottom of the Sunlight gully (photo 3). This path stays above 13,300'. |
|
7/28/2019 Route: South Face Posted On: 7/29/2019, By: S-Parx Info: View my report under Eolus from 7/28/19. Roundtrip conditions from Purgatory flats to all 4 summits. |
|
7/24/2019 Route: South Face Posted On: 7/25/2019, By: daway8 Info: All 4 peaks by Chicago Basin can be done with microspikes and trekking poles, just be sure you know how to safely self-arrest with whatever you bring. Sunlight had worst conditions - snow hard in spots and sank past knees in others. Several rock outcroppings appearing - going up the rocks was easier when available. Microspikes tend to be more suited to that mixed terrain than crampons, just be aware it is steep so again, be prepared to self-arrest. Windom generally firmer with excellent glissade descent. Some were going up with no traction but only by following friends who had traction (wouldn't recommend that). Eolus and North Eolus had multiple snow fields leading up to them but hardly any snow above notch. Easily doable with microspikes. Catwalk totally dry. North Eolus was trivial, rock super grippy. Route finding going up Eolus face was some of most challenging encountered yet (at 55 14ers and counting). Rock not very grippy at all and covered with mud and damp plants, but abundant foot and handholds. Could still glissade patches going down but no longer a continuous slide along the standard route. Rain came every day between 1:30pm - 2pm and typically lasted a couple hours or so with plenty of thunder. Occasional overnight storm but mornings have been storm free. |
|
7/18/2019 Route: Chicago Basin Approach Posted On: 7/20/2019, By: pmp6 Info: Go Pro found in Chicago Basin. If you are missing a gopro, I have it in Denver and can either meet up or mail it to you. Please contact me and answer a few questions to confirm identity. |
|
7/17/2019 Route: South Face Posted On: 7/20/2019, By: tjf242424 Info: Arguably better/easier than in its "normal" condition, since the remaining snow provides easy cramponing to the ridge with some basic mountaineering skills and the right equipment. There are no debris areas that cause any problem or delays on the approach to the camping areas. There's some running water from the Columbine Pass split up to Twin Lakes, but the stream crossings are trivial and I would call it summer conditions to the lakes. The snow was reasonably firm above the lakes, so crampons are recommended on reaching the steeper slopes below the Spire. We left crampons and ice axes at the saddle and had no issues with the one or two tiny patches of snow along the scrambling route. The crux move is heady both up and down. We donned crampons again for the descent from the saddle, although glissading is likely possible if the snow has softened sufficiently. Overall, crampons/ice axe are the equipment of choice and snowshoes would be useless. Peak Eleven: After descending to the lakes, we climbed Peak Eleven via the obvious gully looker's right of Twin Thumbs and left of Peak Eleven. The gully is about 75% snow covered, but much can be avoided in steeper areas by sticking to the scree/rocks and we did not use crampons. The final summit ridge is easy scrambling, followed by a short snow ridge (ice axe recommended). We were able to glissade much of the gully on the descent. This peak is a worthwhile addition for those also interested in ranked 13ers. |
|
7/15/2019 Route: South Face Posted On: 7/18/2019, By: Cranfillpe Info: See detailed report for Mount Eolus from 7/15. |
|
7/8/2019 Route: South Face Posted On: 7/17/2019, By: fdekalb4 Info: Same info as others about the approach in. All snow/ice bridges would not cross as of Tuesday. My wife fell in partially early Tuesday AM. Was able to cross stream but feet got a bit wet. Tons of snow still up past twin lakes and route finding a must. Did not use snowshoes and had minimal postholing. I'd say crampons a must up the gully to Sunlight's ridge. Was still very ice and hard going up and down. I had a glissading mishap and could not get the axe in and was not able to self arrest. Was a scary 10 seconds, but luckily came out with just some scratches. Snow was still very hard and maybe try to time it better than we did, just got there too early and the snow did not soften. Hitting windom after, the snow did soften and the glissade was great fun. Easy out. |
|
7/5/2019 Route: South Face Posted On: 7/8/2019, By: RBeaudry Info: Summer conditions for Purgatory Creek (one dodgy creek crossing along Animas River Trail), mild avalanche debris near and in Chicago basin- easily passed and new trails are forming from foot traffic. Lower Basin to Upper Basin has a lot of moving water and more avalanche debris. Caution is warranted when crossing snow/ice bridges. Spring/winter conditions from the lakes up- lakes are still frozen over. Eolus S/N is an easy bash up snow until the saddle. Saddle on, both routes are effectively dry. Sun hits the snow by 6:30 am, conditions deteriorate rapidly on the shallow slopes. Rock fall is mostly trivial, remaining snow is mostly isolated to snow fields. Sunlight- As Eolus, snow bash up until the final scramble portion. Snow remains in better condition into the mid morning. Sunlight Spire- appeared to be snow on the class 2 traverse to base of the spire- did not approach or climb (but carried a rack from Purgatory Creek...) Windom- Snow until you gain the ridge, ridge is mostly clear. Tread lightly- the trails are sensitive to erosion with all the melt water! Pics - Looking East of Eolus down at the upper snow fields, looking to the upper basin between Sunlight and Windom, and finally a shot of the Windom Ridge looking South off of Sunlight Peak. |
|
7/4/2019 Route: South Face Posted On: 7/7/2019, By: chrschm Info: Continuous snow from twin lakes to the Sunlight/Sunlight Spire saddle. Climbed the red gully with just microspikes and ice axe after climbing Windom - about 10:00 or 11:00 am. Would recommend crampons. Snow was soft enough to kick steps and would be good with crampons earlier in the morning before the sun hit the slope. Once above the saddle, mostly good climbing on solid rock. Some boulders must be traversed around on softening snow - wasn't super comfortable with this but made it. Deviated from the standard route to avoid one snow crossing near the first "window" and ended up climbing above the window on somewhat exposed class 3 - 4 rock. The rest of the route was free of snow. Snow softened more on the way down - downclimbed the steepest bit of the red gully and glissaded the rest of the way. Bring paper and pencil for the summit register! |
|
6/25/2019 Route: South Face Posted On: 6/25/2019, By: wombat Info: Coming up the trail, Debris fields at 10,450, 10,750, and 11k. Nothing to scoff at, but easily navigable. Snow fields start at around 11k. Most of the switchbacks up to twin lakes covered in snow, but easily avoidable. Crampons / ice axe essential from twin lakes on. Made it to saddle with s spire. started making our way to summit. Granular, crumbly snow around boulders, was not comftorable traversing snow between boulders. Had to bail shortly after. Did Not Summit!! Photo of sunlight from windom ridge attached |
