7/5/2021 Route: Southeast Ridge Posted On: 7/5/2021, By: Harrison1991 Info: One small snowfield, right before the saddle. The ridge is completely dry right now. No lingering snow. Great day! |
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6/27/2021 Route: Southeast Ridge Posted On: 6/28/2021, By: jamie09302 Info: Snowed the night of 6/26, after the notch the rocks were a sheet of ice mixed with fresh snow dusting which made the scramble very challenging. Micro spikes were necessary to not slip. |
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6/12/2021 Route: Southeast Ridge Posted On: 6/14/2021, By: ryansunshine20 Info: Mostly summer. A few annoying snow crossing up the trail but nothing significant. There was some snow in the first gully that required us to climb a different gully and crossover above to bypass.This made the route a little harder but nothing crazy. I would imagine that snow will be melted soon. Brought spikes and an axe but never used either. Awesome route. Only saw 4 other other people the whole day. |
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6/10/2021 Route: Southeast Ridge Posted On: 6/10/2021, By: gavmasterj Info: Summer conditions! There were about a dozen snow patches, but they were only about 50 feet each. We brought spikes but didn't use them. Gators were helpful to keep snow out of shoes. Post holing was decidedly worse later in the day. Get an early start and walk on top, or have good footwear. Cheers! |
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6/5/2021 Route: Southeast Ridge Posted On: 6/5/2021, By: Athiel Info: In the basin there were quite a few snowfields and we postholed through those. Snow is melting quickly. Once you gain the ridge and start the scrambling, there are sections of snow in the gullies which make the route interesting. These are hard to pass without using good alternative route judgment or use of ice axe/traction. One could get easily injured here if ill-prepared. We were able to summit, the section from the slab to summit were clear of snow and were super fun to climb and down climb! |
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6/5/2021 Route: Southeast Ridge Posted On: 6/5/2021, By: Alpinefroggy Info: Route has snow in some areas which makes the climb sketchy. Either some use of crampons or some 4th-low 5th class scrambling to access first notch. Some people crossed gully with not much and this was very sketchy. Basin has lots of obnoxious postholes as well. Recommend people wait on this route unless some extra spice is desired Watch out for ice and snow in some places. Creative route finding is necessary. Especially verglass on the last section before summit. |
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6/5/2021 Route: Southeast Ridge Posted On: 6/5/2021, By: Carsonj20 Info: Summited wetterhorn 6/05. The snow in the basin is a pain but nothing worth carrying snow shoes for. Both gullies once on the ridge are filled with snow/ice and were a definite no go so we had to do some sketchy maneuvering to avoid them. I'd recommend waiting a week or two on this one. |
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5/29/2021 Route: Southeast Ridge Posted On: 5/30/2021, By: ButterDips12 Info: Summited Wetterhorn Peak 5/29. Parked at the upper 4wd lot, started at 5am, summited at 7am, back to car at 10am. We messed around in the basin and did some additional climbing after we summited. Did not need snow shoes because there was a good freeze overnight. Brought crampons but didn't use them; I could see them being useful later in the day. There was continuous snow above tree line until the ridge. There was one unavoidable section below the prow that was snow packed and that was the only time I got out my axe just to be safe. Other than that, from the start of ridge to summit we just opted to avoid the snow filled gully's and scramble dry rock. |
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5/16/2021 Route: Southeast Ridge Posted On: 5/17/2021, By: Mopphares Info: The 4WD road is dry up to the .7 mile sign and then snow drifts cover the road on and off to trailhead. Trail is alternating deep snow and dirt/mud and then all snow at treeline. Snow in the basin was solid early morning and no flotation needed. Threw on crampons once up high where snow was already soft and moving. A lot of dry rock and the prow was dry and looked like snow on the summit but otherwise looked dry from 270 feet below. Snow was super soft on way out in the basin back to truck. Occasionally postholing up to my waist. Threw on snowshoes for a bit back to treeline. |
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5/15/2021 Route: Southeast Ridge Posted On: 5/16/2021, By: coopereitel Info: Did not summit Wetterhorn. Started at 4:00am at ~10,440' and ultimately turned around 13,700' on the standard route. Returned to car at 10:00am. I went into this not yet knowing what route to do -- E. Face or Standard. I picked standard because I thought it would be less challenging than the face, but still got turned around. I don't have the proper gear and therefore, my pack was too awkward and heavy which hindered me a bit. At one point I abandoned the skis and just tried to go for it, but got turned around after the V Notch and a bit up that steep little gully. There was some ice under the snow and I'm not super experienced with that type of climbing. Excuses, excuses... Call me a wuss, but I didn't want to chance that. I honestly think that the E. Face may have been a better option because of its directness vs the routefinding and mixedness of the standard. Personally, I would have preferred a partner and maybe a rope for the upper section of the face based on its looks. This is just my opinion, serious respect for those who can go out and crush this route. It is all super fun, I just have some more homework to do. |
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5/14/2021 Route: Southeast Ridge Posted On: 5/15/2021, By: RyGuy Info: Wetterhorn as seen from Windy point with a 300MM lens |
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5/5/2021 Route: East Face Posted On: 5/8/2021, By: KyaCav Info: East Face is still skiable but upper section is fading fast. A few more weeks and the May sun, dark rocks, and East facing will conspire to close this line for the ski season. |
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4/30/2021 Route: East Face Posted On: 5/4/2021, By: One Sierra Charlie Info: Wetterhorn is in very good shape for skiing right now. I needed to park almost 2 miles below the summer trailhead due to impassible drifts on the road. The lower approach/egress was a pain due to patchy collapsible snow, but the conditions improved greatly above the summer trailhead. I could easily skin in and out above this elevation with very little issue. The east face is very well filled in with a nice corn finish. The rock scramble on the summit block is mainly dry and can be climbed in ski boots. |
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9/30/2020 Route: Southeast Ridge Posted On: 9/30/2020, By: Marshall Info: Beautiful day! Did Wetterhorn first then Uncompahgre. Drove to 10,300 for the Matterhorn TH where the road splits for the last time and parked. Easy enough to get there. No snow on the trail all day. Staying on solid rock every chance you get is excellent. There is some fun scrambling near the top. Trail over to Uncompahgre is easy to follow and kinda nice. Minimal water along the way, though. There is one black hill with some slippery scree you'll have to go up (and down) right before joining the main Unc trail. The trail going up and down Unc is pretty straightforward and in fine condition. Times: 2.5 hr to Wetterhorn summit (solid pace with some pictures), 1 hr chill, 3.5 hr to Uncompahgre summit (good pace, few pictures), 1hr chill, 2:15 back to the car (going fast, limited stops). Total: 10:15 with 2 hrs at the summits. |
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9/26/2020 Route: Southeast Ridge Posted On: 9/27/2020, By: jubbuh Info: Did Wetterhorn and Uncompagre in 1 day from Matterhorn Creek TH. Long day, clocked in 19 miles in 8:30h, hauling it. total elevation gain: 6500 ft. Perfect conditions on both peaks! |
