El Diente Peak

Route: Mt. Wilson and El Diente Traverse
Posted On: 8/20/2024, By: climbingyogi
Info: Completed the El Diente - Mt. Wilson traverse on Saturday, 8/17 from Kilpacker Basin. I was surprised at how many parties were out that day (although maybe I shouldn't have been, given the previous weekends' rainfest). I thought the trail was really easy to follow up El Diente and the traverse took us about 2 hours. I was a little nervous about this traverse because I'd heard about all of the loose rock - but I found almost all of the rock during the scrambling sections felt pretty solid. Think I only initially touched one loose hand hold all day. The SW slopes coming off Mt. Wilson were pretty easy too. I'm not actually sure why this is listed as class 3 instead of class 2, because I don't recall any scrambling on the descent. The whole day took us 11 hours car to car, but we probably could've done it in 10 hours. PSA/request: Please don't smoke cigarettes on peaks where others can't escape your secondhand smoke (for example: on a class 4 traverse). Bring a vape pen or something if you absolutely need to and be considerate of others. K, thanks. 

Route: Kilpacker Approach
Posted On: 8/21/2024, By: tiffts16
Info: Did a trial run from the Kilpacker Basin Trailhead and with the weather looking nice, started at 3pm. Everything through to near-treeline was a very nice trail with rolling up and downs. The crossing for Kilpacker creek was a bit spicy with a small log that wasn't the most stable but it was still doable. The creek is almost low enough to jump across though. Was able to reach the summit by 6pm and were the only ones up there after seeing the last group descending about 0.75 miles before the El Diente/Mt. Wilson split. Route finding on the way down was much more difficult than the way up but made it back to treeline about dusk and it was nearly completely dark from the Creek back to the trailhead, so glad we had headlamps. Back to the trailhead at 9:15pm. Time up: 3 hours, 30 minutes at summit, Time down: 2:45. 

Route: Kilpacker Approach
Posted On: 8/19/2024, By: lauradaughtry
Info: I wanted to warn everyone of a mountain lion that my party of 4 and I spotted on the trail about a mile into our trek from Kilpacker, around 5am. We ran into another couple later that day on the trail that said a mountain lion had been stalking their camp the day before. It makes sense because of the number of sheep you will see near the trailhead. Be REALLY careful, and go with a group if you can. We got El Diente but didn't risk going after Mount Wilson because we wanted to be sure we made it back to camp with a good amount of daylight left. Other than that, pure summer conditions and a long day await! 

Route: Kilpacker Approach
Posted On: 7/29/2024, By: mspin99
Info: For those looking to do both El Diente and Mt. Wilson the same day and not doing the "Great Traverse," found a lower traverse with a couple I ran into at 13,100' that saves a few hundred feet from going down to the turn-off. I haven't seen much on this 'lower traverse' outside of mention of it by WildWanderer on one of her trip reports (I think she was going the other way though if I remember correctly). Either way, probably easiest to accomplish from El Diente to Mt Wilson. Once you are below the cliffs with the black water marks, just follow the path of least resistance at around 13,100' until you get to a loose scree gully that is no more than 15-20 feet. Once you get down that, the Mt. Wilson route and some cairns are right in front of you. As for current conditions, no snow issues on either route. Mt. Wilson snowfields are totally avoidable. Just check every handhold and foot placement on these peaks (particularly Mt. Wilson) -- everything is loose. 

Route: Kilpacker Approach
Posted On: 7/22/2024, By: Istoodupthere
Info: Good but overgrown trail in spots to treeline. Trail runners and pants got soaked in the morning. Slog of talus traversing and loose rock up to the ridge. Some slippery frosted talus below the ridge. Above the red rock rib the route finding was tough but there are multiple ways you can go. At the top of the grey gully there was a move that felt like class 4. Otherwise everything manageable class 3. About 10 other people out there taking advantage of the great forecast. No mosquitos. The little bit of snow left is all avoidable 

Route: Kilpacker Approach
Posted On: 7/12/2024, By: Lucas Pattie
Info: There was no snow of real consequence on the south slopes route. Mainly just a few sizable snow banks just above the El Diente/Mt. Wilson route junction, which can mostly be avoided. 

Route: South Slopes
Posted On: 7/4/2024, By: sfreytag
Info: Maybe 3 or 4 snow crossings that you can't avoid. Early in the morning they are iced over and sketchy. Probably want some kind of traction for early morning but axe isn't necessary. Later in day no traction needed for the slush. One small snow crossing on summit push has good steps kicked in and feels secure without traction. 

Route: Kilpacker Approach
Posted On: 6/24/2024, By: ashleyhardick1012
Info: Snow patches that were unavoidable in steep sections made this route a bit sketchier than it should be and increased difficulty with route finding. Two patches in the summit push involved some 3+ to 4 moves that arent on the original route. I would advise giving it a few more weeks for the snow to melt. 

Route: Navajo Lake Approach
Posted On: 6/11/2024, By: jas0nleslie
Info: Please see update on Mt Wilson for the werds. 

Route: Rock of Ages Approach
Posted On: 5/27/2024, By: gingers101
Info: El diente conditions 5/27 from Pt. 13540 

Route: South Slopes
Posted On: 5/28/2024, By: jfm3
Info: Snow starts just above the last stand of trees in Kilpacker Basin and is continuous up to the ridge. I attempted "South Wilson" but got a great look at the south side of El Diente. Snow was in great condition for crampon and ice axe use. There are some old avalanche paths on both sides of Kilpacker Basin with frozen debris at the bottom. CAIC says there haven't been any reported avalanches in the San Juans for a few weeks so the consolidation is well underway. Some intermittent waterfalls are frozen on the cliffs and I did hear occasional rockfall. The Kilpacker approach has a lot of snow in the trees that was supportive in the morning but soft in the afternoon. Snowshoes necessary for the hike out. 

Route: Navajo Lake Approach
Posted On: 5/19/2024, By: LeftyGriffin
Info: Almost no snow from TH to merge with Kilpacker Trail (~2.5 miles in). Consistent snow to Navajo Lake after that. Pictures from the lake looking towards El Diente and up valley towards Gladstone 

Route: Rock of Ages Approach
Posted On: 5/6/2024, By: jas0nleslie
Info: Snow all the way from RoA TH up to both the ROA saddle and the ED ridge, via North Slopes. Floatation required. The north-facing couloir coming up to the RoA saddle was ankle-to-knee deep, and so was the North Slopes couloir proper, all the way up to the saddle. The snow made route-finding difficult to ED summit once past the obstacles on the south side of the ridge... 

Route: Mt. Wilson and El Diente Traverse
Posted On: 12/31/2023, By: paulbarish
Info: Stunningly beautiful! Somewhat heinous. Deep postholing with lots of trap doors in the talus. More so than your typical winter 14er sufferfest it felt like lol it wasnt as bad when I could use my track on the way back. The cruxes are mostly dry and the whole route is just a great time. Snow is very stable. These are new 14ers for me and I have to say this is one of my favorite 14er routes Ive done! Have fun and go get it! 

Route: West Ridge
Posted On: 10/22/2023, By: ericahlstedt
Info: Conditions were dry, west ridge was super solid and fun, not unstable like other routes ive read about.