North Maroon Peak

Route: view from Pyramid and lower trail
Posted On: 9/24/2023, By: WillRobnett
Info: view from Pyramid and lower trail 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 9/18/2023, By: nmjameswilson
Info: Snow was present on the last 500 feet however we didn't need micro spikes. The chimney was clear except the landing on the bottom. On the way down we had light snow however the Bells were covered in storms when we arrived back at the TH. 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 9/17/2023, By: dreamwarrior
Info: Dry conditions until the Chimney. The chimney was a little icy and slippery in the early morning. We made it up without ropes with no problem. Later when we came down at 11am, it was pretty much dry. Its totally doable, just take your time. After the chimney, there is still snow what you cant really avoid. Highly suggest to bring micro spikes. We had a blast today. 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 9/17/2023, By: Brandon0135
Info: Completely dry up until the chimney, which was icy, snowy, and pretty sketchy. I did it, but I wouldn't recomend it. Several people turned back and the people coming from the traverse hated the chimney downclimb. If they get no more snow this week it might by dry next weekend. If they get any more snow I'd wait till next year. Check the live webcams from the aspen resort to see if there is still snow dusted on the bells. I did not do the traverse, but people coming from the traverse said it was slick and snowy all on the north side and along the traverse. 

Route: Bells Traverse
Posted On: 8/14/2023, By: donovanrice
Info: Summer conditions. Went S to N. The first difficulty was easiest. Second difficulty was the hardest, for me. Third difficulty (option 2) was straightforward. Don't think N to S would be fun without ropes, though rappelling could be nice. Descent down Northeast ridge was mostly straightforward. Downclimbing chimney was straightforward. Further down I missed a turn and went down a wrong gully, but some class 3 and class 4 moves on loose rock reconnected me. Not recommended. 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 8/9/2023, By: BillMiddlebrook
Info: Dry all the way 

Route: Bells Traverse
Posted On: 8/6/2023, By: dogsandguitars12
Info: Tiny patches of snow on S Maroon ascent, nothing that needs spikes or axe. No snow on traverse or N Maroon descent. Make sure to find the trail down the second gully if you didnt ascend N Maroon. Traverse is good to go and tons of cairns. Creek crossing is easy and doesnt require taking off shoes. Mosquitos out in full force near the lakes. Saw a pair of cat eyes in the woods in the dark, we made lots of noise after that. Also saw a moose cooling off in Maroon Lake. 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 7/28/2023, By: alpinenut
Info: Conditions improving. We did not carry traction or an ice axe. We had to step into two FLAT footprints in one snowfield with no exposure. I attached a picture looking down at precipice. You basically walk between the snow and cliff then cross it at the narrowest part. There is a little snow at the bottom of the chimney but you can get your feet on the rock without stepping in the snow. Water crossing was easy. That stream is the last place you can filter on the route. 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 7/25/2023, By: EthanBeltramo
Info: Essentially summer conditions. Brought an ice ace and spikes but never used either. All of the snow on the route was avoidable. There is a little bit of ice at the base of the chimney but you can avoid it. I found the crux of the route to be the final Cliffs below the summit rather than the chimney as they are quite exposed. Chimney move is a little tough on the Down climb but it is protected and not exposed. There was a rap anchor someone had set up that looked to be in good condition. 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 7/27/2023, By: kissmyiceaxe
Info: Similar to last report. A few small snow patches to cross, but nothing significant to necessitate axes, etc. There's a patch below the summit that I felt more comfortable with microspikes on, but the rest of my team didn't use them. The snow is avoidable, but we opted for the snow as it seemed more stable than that loose crap rock up there. 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 7/23/2023, By: ashleyelizabeth0312
Info: Snow avoidable and melting fast. Quite the hike with lots of loose rock in gully 2, someone behind us dislodged a large boulder, so be careful! 

Route: Bells Traverse
Posted On: 7/25/2023, By: skeater912
Info: Traverse is dry - no snow/water that we encountered. There's quite a bit I would tell people if theyre gonna give the traverse a go. The 14ers route for the traverse is spotty at best - Watch some videos, study the images, take the route description with you. Having a visual from videos on where folks had found the best climbing/safest routes was critical because theyre not laid out in the 14ers beta. 'Difficulty 2', which you'll probably be looking forward too as your most exposed point on the route, is difficult to piece together as you descend from spire 1 if you are looking at the route description. When you reach the end of your spire 1 downclimb, traverse left and look to climb the left-hand side of the ridge (easy class 3 scramble) up to the exposed moves on the right side of the ridge, where you gain the top of this cliff band. Truthfully, felt that the exposure was not that bad, but the climbing was real - much more intensive rock climbing than the headwall on the Crestones Traverse, but definitely felt less exposed. North Maroon descent was, as we expected, the worst part of the day by a huge margin. Snow is still unavoidable. We took axes and spikes and used them - probably could get away with just an axe, but might be spicy. In the afternoon the snow was soft and slippery, so was good to have the security. The snowfields obscured the route thru the steep, loose rock above the class 4 chimney and made for slow going. When you get below the snowfield, hang to the right, nearer the ridge, and you can avoid the snowfields that hang above the NE face. The crux chimney downclimb is simple and there is barely any snow remaining below it. Getting into the second gully is straightforward, but the gully is a sufferfest, as you likely expected. Hanging to the lookers left of the gully was better. Other major mistake of the day, which is a byproduct of descending a route you didn't ascend... when we cut between the "upper/2nd" and "lower/1st" gullies, we dropped too early. We were in a small, steep, loose, ugly gully between the true route. Luckily for us, we were able to descend and then cut underneath some large cliffs to regain the route, but there was a world we feared that we would be re-climbing the way we came to get back on track. If you see a small, treacherous looking gully, remember that "gully 1" should look like a beautiful haven of trails and grass compared to the peaks you have been on... Overall - super fun day. The traverse is super entertaining, the views rock, and the climb to S. Maroon is terrific. 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 7/22/2023, By: Alpine Addict
Info: Still snow to deal with starting at the crux chimney. Right after the chimney there are cairns leading climbers right or west to steep snowfields. I would highly recommend staying on the ridge proper straight after the chimney to avoid these steep exposed snowfields. We went up the steep snowfields but followed the ridge down and found it in far better condition. Would recommend at least bringing poles for traction in the snow. 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 7/17/2023, By: nweitzer7
Info: Traction not needed for South Maroon or the traverse but North Maroon has persistent snowfields above the lil crux chimney. Postholes the bigger danger, light traction could be needed in the morning 

Route: Northeast Ridge
Posted On: 7/17/2023, By: winter_wisher
Info: All the points listed in the 09-Jul-2023 condition report by jmf3 still apply. The bottom half of the chimney is piled with snow and ice, so be prepared for a less than straightforward ascent/descent through this feature. There is unavoidable snow above the chimney which requires traction plus ice axe to establish and maintain secure positioning. Around 13.5k, as this snowfield turns up and left toward the summit, you may be tempted to move left (SE) to traverse a rock-free path of snow that is close to the edge. DO NOT take this path! It is a cornice. I instead followed more certain ground where the rocks stuck out of the snow.