7/13/2021 Route: Standard Route Posted On: 7/15/2021, By: timewarp01 Info: This was one hell of a climb! Summit anchor chain from 2016 is still in great shape, and cleaner than in previous reports. There are still three solid gear placements along the length of the crack (including an ancient piton and ring), but they're far enough apart that we needed a lot of cams to make it up. The approach to the base of the spire involves some 3rd class, then downclimbing a large flake to a flat spot before shimmying up a chimney. We felt comfortable getting to that point without roping up, but rapped the chimney on the way out. Super hazy day in the basin, and we just had time to bag the spire and Sunlight before a huge storm system moved in. It'll probably be dumping rain for the rest of the week. |
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8/6/2018 Route: Standard route - aid Posted On: 8/8/2018, By: Eli Boardman Info: Approach ledge starts around 13.7k and has a few cairns. There's 2 good fixed pieces (maybe 3, I can't remember) in the crack. Summit anchor is solid (large bolt and chain, tricam and hex with webbing). Middle anchor (on ledge west of midpoint of crack) is 2 pitons with questionable webbing (I used it, probably better to replace the webbing though). Lower anchor (base of crack) is in good shape with several slings around a block. |
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8/17/2017 Route: Standard Route Posted On: 8/18/2017, By: Hjelmstadlt Info: The Spire is as grand and crazy as ever. I cleaned up the top anchor, because when I topped out it was a bit messy. Now the anchor consists of a Bolt with a chain and rap ringplaced last September, a bomber hex, and a large tricam with some webbing and cord attached to the other rap ring. The old ¼ inch bolt is marked with a historic artifact tag and has a mess of old webbing attached to it. The permagear in ascending order consists of a small nut about 10ft off the deck, a large nut about 30-40ft and an old piton with a ring alittle over half way. all of it still looks to be in great shape! Trip report coming soon! |
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8/29/2023 Route: Standard route 5.10a crack Posted On: 9/1/2023, By: blazintoes Info: We hiked in via purgatory, set up camp in Chicago Basin then had an afternoon climb up the spire. Very busy in the basin. On the way up I heard a story about Brandon Chalk leading Steve Gladbach and his daughter up the Spire. This was a great way to start a hard climb. I didnt place any pieces on the approach pitch. The anchor at the base of the crack is in good condition. There are 3 stuck pieces and a piton ring. The remaining climb requires gear from a #2 BD cam-0.4. Doubles in #1 and 0.75 a tough size for me. There is decking potential to the left if you blow the moves. Hanging is a possibility if you get in your head like I did. No need to break an ankle up at 14,000 The climb gets easier the higher you go and eventually there are left foot placements and right hand holds. I think the anchor sucks. It is difficult to transition to for rappel but thats my only concern. What a privilege we 3 had sitting on the spire together! |
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7/14/2023 Route: Sunlight Spire Posted On: 7/15/2023, By: smegison Info: Great climb! Currently 4 fixed pieces of gear and the anchor chain is in great shape. No spikes or axe needed for the spire or Sunlight Peak. Some snowfields around twin lakes but all flat. No snow all the way up to twin lakes. We just wore approach shoes the whole way and it was great. Windom and Eolus looked like you might still want them but we didnt climb those this time. |
