7/13/2024 Route: Willow pass up, NE Couloir down Posted On: 7/15/2024, By: VeraUndertow Info: I climbed up 13350 (LiDAR) from Willow Pass after climbing Willoughby and 13015 (Lidar), this was a fairly straightforward route, loose but not scary to start on the red rock, then it switches to the gray rock and instantly feels more like capitol/snowmass area. The plate talus is definitely unstable but the ridge crest actually stays pretty solid for the elks and there is a really cool knife ridge to get up to near the summit, then there is some more loose plates the last 50 vertical feet to the summit. Really cool views from up here. I wanted to document a quick ridge bypass I saw on topo and wanted to check out of you are linking 13350 and 13255 but don't want to scramble the ridge Chicago Transplant documents in his trip report of these peaks. I saw there was a perfect set of couloirs that only looses around 1000 total feet of vertical going down the north east couloir off 13350 and then back up a south facing couloir right in the basin across from it. The top of the couloir off 13350 was loose gray talus, similar to the south gully on hagerman and everything moved as this obviously doesn't see a ton of traffic, then I hit around 700 feet of 40 degree snow, which was very soft by 12-1 pm when I came through here, I was able to glissade down in control using my trekking pole. I really wish I had an axe or my skis on as glissading out of control is not my idea of fun and I was only willing to attempt it knowing the run out was low angle snow but still not ideal. I dropped down to around 12350 feet as I crossed the basin and gained the loose rock and plant covered couloir directly across. The first 200 feet I made switchbacks across trying not to slip on the loose terrain, but as I passed a bulbous rock halfway up the couloir on the east side, a faint climbers trail appeared and I was able to stay on the east side using the rock wall as a handhold to gain the final 200 feet up the couloir rather efficiently. From here I chose to sidehill across the north east slope of this middle summit between 13350 and 13255, depending on your love of sidehilling you could loose a little elevation and avoid all the cliff bands that cut diagonally down the face or I chose to slowly regain vertical aiming for the two towers on the ridge crest. The cliff bands aren't bad in this area and probably could be kept at class 3 with some looking, I found a few class 4 moves but the rock was relatively solid and I was happy enough to make those moves. The two towers on the ridge were not a problem, I went around the first one on the east and over the second one. From there it was an easy enough walk to the summit of 13255. Just thought this information might be useful for people trying to connect these two peaks who don't get warm fuzzy feelings from the description of that ridge. It goes okay, as Joseph Nephi did the ridge right ahead of me on the same day, but sometimes I have a hard time trusting the elk ridges. |
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7/6/2022 Route: From East Snowmass Trail Posted On: 7/6/2022, By: SionaRW35 Info: Whole route was kind of wet after recent rains. We did a loop up East Snowmass Creek Trail which was pretty muddy in spots. From saddle a short scramble up UN 13336 on loose & very slick rock to a summit with beautiful views of the Bells, Pyramid, Snowmass, and Capitol. Descended down towards Willow Lake which was damp and muddy then eventually up and over Buckskin Pass where the trail is in good shape and the cornice is avoidable. Stopped briefly to admire Snowmass Lake where there were plenty of open tent sites and down the Snowmass Trail to complete a long 11+ hour loop. |
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9/23/2021 Route: Southwest Ridge from 13,020 B Posted On: 9/27/2021, By: supranihilest Info: From 13,020 B's summit I scrambled back along the broken north ridge and down the northwest ridge to the saddle. This was Class 2+. 13,336's southwest ridge right up from the saddle looks like it might be hard but it's not, and it's surprisingly fun. Begin up the red mudstone at Class 2+, weaving through short little cliff bands. Wrap around the large cliff to the left and make your way up to the white Capitol/Snowmass rock. The rock becomes generally more solid here, but it's still easy to dislodge large blocks. Scramble along the ridge crest or just below at Class 2+ to Class 3. The summit is probably the loosest part and consists of precariously stacked boulders that are easy to send careening down the peak. Be extra careful at the top. Descend the way you came. I took the East Snowmass trail all the way back, and what a nice and beautiful trail it is! It's something like 6 miles to the trailhead but the trail is exceptionally well traveled and easy to follow. The trees are popping with color right now. |
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9/22/2021 Route: with 13,020B Posted On: 9/25/2021, By: SnowAlien Info: Approached via Willow lake basin. Was a bit surprised by the amount of scrambling on UN 13,336, thought it was a walk-up. It's class 3-4 if you stay near the ridge. Part just below the summit felt steep on loose talus. UN 13,020B is straightforward and short. Descended via East Snowmass drainage. Neither of the peaks had a register. |