Mt. Meeker

Route: North Face above Chasm cirque
Posted On: 7/1/2019, By: jfm3
Info: I hiked Mt. Lady Washington & Chasm Lake and got a good look at the conditions in the Chasm cirque and on the north side of Mt. Meeker. Evidence of some slide activity (not sure how old) and plenty of booters/tracks headed up the Loft. 1: On MLW summit looking down at Chasm Lake. 2. Upper Meeker & Ship's Prow from MLW summit. 3. At the Chasm Lake snow crossing, looking up Meeker & the Loft. 

Route: Loft and Iron Gates
Posted On: 6/10/2019, By: HikerGuy
Info: Ideal conditions today on Mount Meeker, hard freeze overnight, blue skies, light wind. Went up the Loft Couloir, snow was perfect for cramponing. The exit ramp is snow covered, but no problems. You can avoid almost all snow on the ridge over to the east summit as well as descending the Iron Gates route, no traction needed once leaving the Loft. 

Route: Dreamweaver
Posted On: 5/20/2019, By: angry
Info: Great conditions heading to base of climb and then the storm rolled in. Graupel from about 12,800 on. Roped up for the crux and made a quick ascent of the summit and ridge and then down climbed the ledges to descend via the loft. Low visibility and poor snow quality did not allow for any glissading. Used a 70 meter rope but a 30 would've worked; light rack and a second ice tool came in handy; ice screws not needed. 

Route: Dreamweaver
Posted On: 5/19/2019, By: Conor
Info: Snow filled the entire way. very little, almost no ice. If you desire snowy conditions, this is the time. Firm snow underneath, wind loaded in places. The "cruxes" take some work clearing snow for dry tooling. We traversed over to Meeker Ridge, icy and snowy in spots. We did it sans points, but snow/ice will prevent veering too far off the ridge. Descent into loft via the ramp is steep snow (50 ish). Loft after entering on ramp is nicely filled in all the way to the Chasm Lake crappers. We rode our butt wagons most of the way down the loft. No signs of avy - natural, fractures of wind slab, etc. No wet slides seen. Photos: 1) approach from about Chasm lake level. 2) start of 1st choke after the apron. 3) top of first crux. 4) start of the business after the notch. 5) finishing off the steep climb at the top. snow filled pretty much to the summit. 

Route: Southwest Ridge
Posted On: 11/26/2018, By: kingshimmers
Info: Just a visit to Sandbeach Lake today, but worth noting that the route has a ton of snow. By the time we reached Hunter's Creek crossing, we were creating a >2ft deep trench while breaking trail in our gigantic snowshoes. Snow is currently fairly powdery and not too heavy in the trees, but there's a lot of it. Meeker itself looks windblown. 

Route: via Iron Gates/Loft
Posted On: 9/17/2018, By: LetsGoMets
Info: Ascended via the Iron Gates, hit Meeker Ridge, crossed the knife edge and summited the fantastic Mount Meeker. Descended via the Loft. Everything is in full summer conditions. 

Route: Iron Gates
Posted On: 9/3/2018, By: crowdsurf
Info: Ascended and descended the iron gates route with 14ers.com member r_grizz on 9/2. Didn't get any good shots of the knife edge but this part of the route is in good condition and was free of lingering moisture. Rock is very solid and of good composition. There is a tricky down climb to gain the knife edge that required a couple of moves. Small amounts of graupel and verglass are lingering in the shady areas around the ridge and just below the entrance to the knife edge but these are entirely avoidable. You can see that temps are dropping at night. There is a section while gaining the ridge about half way to the iron gates where the rock is pretty unstable. Use caution in this area as almost everything moves here and descending was treacherous. 

Route: Via the Loft
Posted On: 7/25/2018, By: Flyingfish
Info: The loft couloir has a lot of water running down it. This is avoidable by staying to the climbers left on the way up. Once you hit the slab section just below the exit ramp there is no escaping the water. The loft is completely dry and the route up Meeker is dry. 

Route: Iron gates
Posted On: 6/24/2018, By: nguytravis
Info: The traverse over peacock pool is the driest I have ever seen it. Traction was not required. Perhaps 10 steps on snow for that traverse. Everything after Chasm lake was completely free of snow. Great conditions. 100% chance of scree. 

Route: Via Longs Peak\\\\Loft
Posted On: 6/23/2018, By: RyGuy
Info: Mount Meeker is almost totally dry and in summer conditions. Summited from Longs Peak/The Loft, then descended the Iron Gates. Loft still has a good bit of snow. Ran into some folks who made it up, but noted it was a mess. Photos show: 1.Meeker from Longs 2.Looking at Meeker Ridge from Meeker proper. 3.Longs with top of Loft route 4.Longs and Chasm Lake with the Loft route mostly visible 

Route: Southwest Ridge
Posted On: 6/4/2018, By: jfm3
Info: Mt. Meeker and Meeker Ridge are mostly dry and are in summer conditions. There are some wet/muddy areas near treeline on the Hunter Creek 'trail' and some very avoidable snow in this area too. Sandbeach Lake trail is dry all the way. There is one lingering snowfield at ~12,700 feet on the south face of Meeker, just before gaining the southwest ridge. This can be avoided by ascending another ~100 feet and going behind a big rock tower and joining the ridge farther up. Knife edge is dry except for 2 small snowdrifts about 2/3 of the way across, on the north side. I used spikes and got across fine. I'll post some pictures when I go through them. 

Route: Sandbeach lake TH-meeker ridge
Posted On: 5/8/2018, By: smartt
Info: Went up Sandbeach lake trail to meeker ridge at about 13,100 I skirted the east face to the top of continuous snow. Was able to snowboard about 1,000-1,200 feet till the snow stopped on cabin creek. Hiked out to the church then took the highway back to sandbeach lake trailhead. 

Route: Dragon Egg Couloir
Posted On: 1/26/2018, By: JoseDeMoor
Info: There was a decent trench all the way to Sandbeach Lake, opted to go that direction versus following the creek up to Meeker Meadow. Above treeline there wasn't much snow. Took the more direct route of Meeker Ridge back to the trail on the descent. Lots of wind, didn't see anyone else out there, the R$NP entrance gate was unmanned. 

Route: Loft
Posted On: 11/15/2017, By: desertdog
Info: Windy, but the wind blown snow was firm enough to climb. We took the summer bypass on the ledges. There is a section of ice right as you get on the ledges. You will have to climb some fairy steep snow before you gain easier ground. Ice axe and crampons are a must. 

Route: Iron Gates
Posted On: 8/17/2017, By: cougar
Info: Entire route is dry. Same for other routes. Scree can mostly be avoided by ascending the nearby talus. Awesome alpenglow on Longs.