6/27/2025 Route: Standard Posted On: 6/27/2025, By: Shattuck311 Info: All snow avoidable except at the crux pitch to the summit. Photos for reference. Ice axe felt necessary, microspikes were helpful. If rapping the second, lower station with a 200' rope, you'll also go over snow. But downclimbing and going up route it was all avoidable. |
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6/19/2025 Route: Southwest Rib/West Ridge Posted On: 6/19/2025, By: Wentzl Info: Did not climb, but photo from Mt Sneffels for anyone interested |
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9/27/2024 Route: Southwest Rib/West Ridge Posted On: 9/30/2024, By: terrysrunning Info: I didnt actually climb it; I climbed Teakettle but I took pictures of Dallas and it is holding some snow right at the N side of the summit. Was supposed to do Dallas the next day but since my partner and I were only going to use rope to rap we had no way to protect that section so decided to do some different peaks. |
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9/4/2024 Route: East Face Posted On: 9/6/2024, By: Ssgustafson Info: Lots of beta out there on Dallas, but wanted to add a note on the summit rappel. Roach describes this as an 85' rappel going thru the chockstone gap or 110' going over the chockstone. We used a 50m (164') rope, so 82' doubled, and decided to stop at a large landing (approx 10' by 10') at the chockstone. That rappel was about 60'. We then used the good anchor and rap ring on the ledge to rappel over the chockstone and were happy to use the whole 50m / 164' rope length to get down the very slippery slope to the safe spot where we stashed our trekking poles. |
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7/28/2024 Route: Standard east face Posted On: 7/28/2024, By: ericahlstedt Info: Summer conditions are all in. There is a bit of snow under the chockstone you rappel through, 2, 30m ropes will get you from the summit past the bit of snow. Party of 4 all soloed it up without climbing shoes, climbing overall is fairly solid. Dont let the reputation scare you off if you are down for some fun easy 5th, 4th, and are decent at route finding. |
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7/6/2024 Route: Standard/East Face Posted On: 7/8/2024, By: Nobleman Info: With Dallas dethroned as a Centennial, I imagine whatever popularity it once enjoyed may become diminished, however, hopefully it remains a classic in what I would call Colorado's "hike-a-rope" category. For those that are still interested, current conditions = summer. A few scattered snow patches exist, but are easily walked around. No need for traction of any sort. The technical "crux" pitch is totally dry (just a small inconsequential step of snow at the base). Rack suggestion is minimal: a #2 protects the one move of 5.3, and the rest of the mostly 4th class pitch can be sewn up with a couple cams in the .4-.75 range if desired. Rap anchor is bomber - large block slung with wire rope cable and a couple (unnecessary) webbing slings. 60m rope will just reach walkable scree (and a bit of quickly melting snow) when thrown over the chockstone. Enjoy! |
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9/22/2023 Route: East/north face standard Posted On: 9/22/2023, By: VeraUndertow Info: Beautiful but slightly windy day to be up high. Left Mill Creek TH around 7 AM and hiked up the standard South to East ramp. Some good choss and scree but summer conditions on South and East aspects. The C4 chimney was dry to get onto the north face and had a slung boulder on the top but that's where the fun began. Blazingtoes led a slight variation up the standard crux pitch due to snow while Heather belayed, the snow was really faceted sugar snow with ice underneath and would give out randomly without warning. Amy cleaned a bunch of snow off the route and placed 3 cams (not sure sizes) and then I followed up on top rope. My fingers were frozen within 1 minute of starting to climb and my shoes had ice on the soles making everything slightly more challenging then you'd want. Heather followed up right after on top rope then we hung out for a good while enjoying the summit of what has to be the hardest centennial peak I've done in the current conditions. We tied our two 60 meter ropes together and rapped around the chockstone instead of thru in one rap, anchor was in good condition. There was another rap station lower about half way down the east face that we also rapped with a single 60M. Long day with all the rope work and it was super cold above 13k. Definitely early winter conditions on the north face of Dallas and I don't think it's going anywhere any time soon unless we get a really warm dry spell. The 5.7 east face route looked dry and Chossinator looked right out of the picture with all the snow on the ridge there. Bring your A game and microspikes and maybe an ice axe wouldn't hurt either |
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8/5/2023 Route: Standard Posted On: 8/5/2023, By: Chipmunk Info: Snow is avoidable on the entire route, except for at the base of the rappel/chockstone. Free soloed up, used two 30M ropes tied together for the rappel. All anchors in good shape. |
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7/16/2023 Route: Southwest Rib/West Ridge Posted On: 7/16/2023, By: josephnephi Info: The final climb requires an additional 10-15 feet of exposed snow climbing. Used an ice axe and brought (but didn't use crampons). We roped up and started the final pitch from the beginning of the snow. Additionally, on the rappel off the summit, we bypassed the choke stone as underneath it was still quite full of snow. The rest of the route was snow free. |
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7/8/2023 Route: Standard Posted On: 7/10/2023, By: ryansunshine20 Info: Still snowy up there. We were able to mostly stay on snow up the south face. Most of the areas around the traverse to the east face were basically dry. Just after the steep class 4 section the snow was very deep and unconsolidated. We had to turn around about 200 feet from the summit due to it being impassible because of the snow. I would wait until august to attempt this for a real chance to summit. On the way down some of the more exposed snow sections on the south face were impassible due to the softening snow so a lot of exposed scree surfing took place to bypass that. The snow on the exposed sections should melt here in the next week or so. |
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7/24/2022 Route: Southwest Rib/West Ridge Posted On: 7/24/2022, By: Geckser Info: Great conditions this morning, 5 hours 20 minutes car to car. Glad to get down early before the late afternoon Lightning. We took the 5.7 variation to the summit. Fun little route for folks looking for an extra thrill. Glad to have the rope for rappelling down. A little snow at the base of the rappel but nothing that caused any issues. Super fun peak! Probably won't do it again though |
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7/23/2022 Route: East Face Posted On: 7/24/2022, By: kempenjn Info: No snow except for the base of the summit rappel. All rap stations appear to be in good condition. 6 people in 11.5 hrs car to car. |
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7/2/2022 Route: East face Posted On: 7/2/2022, By: zootloopz Info: Summer conditions except for some snow at the base of the summit pitch, and at the bottom of the long summit rappel. No biggie. Brought a 46m rope and split it into 2 raps. Rock did not feel that bad compared to all the other San Juan junk I've been on. 11 hours round trip. Solo'd up. Rappelled down. Hail around 2pm on the way down. Fun day! |
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2/13/2022 Route: Northeast Posted On: 2/14/2022, By: blazintoes Info: Approached via Stan's shortcut. Was nice to scramble on rock. Then pounced directly up the south scree face. The snow was stair stepping quality with occasional punch if I stepped on an air pocket. A FFL helicopter flew by twice. Made good time to the standard route and once I turned to the east face the snow was terribly sugary and burned energy. Since I was solo I chose the standard 5.3 north scramble and it took me 90 minutes to rope solo 40 feet because once I set up my anchor point on top I got to climb it twice to retrieve gear. It was an outstanding winter weather day. Views aplenty. Rapped from the summit. The snow turned icy after the sun set and I front pointed down east and 600' down south. |
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9/6/2021 Route: East Face Posted On: 9/6/2021, By: supranihilest Info: Trail to the south slopes is in good shape. On the ascent we were led astray by several cairns far to the left of where we should have been; if you find yourself climbing past a red webbing rappel anchor you're in the wrong place and too far left. The proper route trends up and to climber's right to a saddle with a large, obvious cairn on it. Class 4 headwall was easier and more solid than expected but test every hold. The "Class 4" chimney felt like Class 5 to both myself and my climbing partner and was the only part of the route we definitely felt warranted a rope and protection. The upper pitches to the summit felt more like Class 3-4 on rock more solid than expected. Rap stations at the summit, at the top of the standard rap chockstone, the top of the "Class 4" chimney, and the top of the Class 4 headwall all in good shape. A piece of advice from Mike Rodenak (Chicago Transplant) who we ran into the day before: instead of finishing the standard rap through the chockstone hole, rap over to the top of the "Class 4" chimney and rap that instead. The chockstone descent is horrible, steep, bare hardpan with ZERO traction. We followed Mike's advice (thank you!) and had an easier time. Another piece of advice: bring microspikes. There's 2,000+ feet of scree and hardpan on this route, sometimes very exposed, that will be 10x easier with microspikes. |
