Pilot Knob

Route: From ice lakes basin
Posted On: 7/15/2025, By: Devil_in_sky
Info: Pilot knob is clear of snow. Great class 3 climb with some exposure. I climbed it from the ice lakes side and encountered small amounts of snow working up to the side of pilot knob, then again descending the saddle between golden horn and pilot knob after climbing golden horn. Nothing significant, had crampons and ice axe and did not need them at all. 

Route: Ice Lake approach and traverse to Golden Horn
Posted On: 7/6/2025, By: jprinner
Info: Ascended Pilot Knob from ice lake side and traversed over to Golden Horn on the west face. There are still about 4 patches of snow on the west face that interfere with the route. For two of them I was happy to have crampons and axe. The other 2 we were able to traverse beneath them off route. Only one small patch on the west face was on the PK route from ice lake and was pretty easily avoidable going beneath on wet clay-like terrain, the other 3 were on the traverse route to Golden Horn. Once you’re on the PK-Golden Horn ridge it’s totally dry to Golden Horn summit. I was able to descend off the Golden Horn-Vermillion saddle avoiding snow completely. 

Route: Standard via S Mineral to Ice Lakes
Posted On: 7/4/2024, By: Boggy B
Info: The Ice Lakes trail is pretty wet right now. Minimal water crossings are super icy before the sun is up (if it's a clear night). Snowfield below the standard scree slope is partially avoidable, but it's caked with enough dirt to hike up. Route is dry/snow-free from there except for a chunk of snow in the usual spot below the NW face that is easily bypassed. Didn't bring or need any traction/snow gear. 

Route: Ice Lake
Posted On: 8/5/2023, By: Sbenfield
Info: Summer conditions, no mandatory snow crossing/gear needed. Great peak and flowers out too! 

Route: From Golden Horn, Hope Lake
Posted On: 7/12/2023, By: vertical_volume
Info: I was turned around attempting to get to Pilot Knob from Golden Horn due to a couple snow fields that basically cover all reasonable options to traverse around the west side of the peak to the 3rd class gully. I had spikes and no axe, not sure I would have tried to cross the snow field that turned me around if I had an axe anyway. The snowfield I decided to turn around at did have a high traverse, but I wasn't super keen on reversing it on the way back with what was below it and how loose it was. So I decided to save it for another day. Someone else may have no issue with it. It looks like there is a snow field inhibiting passage from the Ice Lakes basin side as well, but I didn't make it far enough to verify, so it might be fine. Did not take a picture of it unfortunately. 

Route: The usual
Posted On: 7/8/2023, By: Boggy B
Info: A snowfield on the west side makes crampons required gear for a while yet, unless if it's really soft (late afternoon?). Might 3rd class the handrail but I'd still bring an axe. Not a good place to slip. There's also a snowfield lingering on the north side if approached from Ice Lakes. Let's be honest, though, Ice Lakes is a cluster and that approach sucks when dry (it is). Waterfall Creek from Ophir is the way to go. EDIT/Disclaimer: Per Sentinel the Ice Lakes approach was still loaded as of 7/5. I can't imagine it all burned off in 3 days but I could swear it looked dry from the summit. Possible hallucination. 

Route: Ice Lakes
Posted On: 7/5/2022, By: angry
Info: Scree slope to gain the ridge isn't great but is not the worst I've ever encountered. Easy scramble to summit, no register. 

Route: From Waterfall Basin/Yellow Mountain
Posted On: 9/9/2021, By: supranihilest
Info: There's a great trail up Waterfall Basin from Ophir. Take it until you're high in the basin and then stick to grass as much as possible heading up to the saddle with Yellow Mountain. There's then a trail through the loose rock on the ridge and a trail across Pilot Knob's west face. Take it around a small protruding rib to the first obvious gully. This is your ascent gully to the ridge, and it has a couple of defining features to help identify it (see photos). Climb the gully at Class 3, being mindful that everything is loose and covered in gravel. The gully splits near the top, we took the lefthand branch up a chimney to the ridge crest. Remember where you came up! The ridge can be confusing otherwise. The ridge crest is extremely exposed but easier than expected. In most cases the route scrambles directly along the ridge crest over blocks and boulders. Again be mindful of loose rock - it's far more solid than I expected, but not a place to use a bad hold. As you near the summit you'll approach a mushroom shaped block that blocks easy access. Climb around it on the left side. The mushroom is by far the most exposed part of the climb and I actually found it easier not to hug the block but to step down and use a small ledge below, since otherwise the block pushes you out awkwardly over the abyss. Once past the block it's a Class 2 walk with a short Class 3 scramble of 2-3 moves to the large summit plateau. Reverse your route down. Overall a 5 star scramble and easier than the fierce reputation this one has. 

Route: From Ice Lakes Basin
Posted On: 10/18/2020, By: WildWanderer
Info: A little bit of snow on the trail on the north side after ascending the scree gully to the ridge, but otherwise summer conditions. No traction needed. 

Route: From Ice Lake
Posted On: 7/31/2020, By: yaktoleft13
Info: Dry, summer conditions. Make sure you stay on the climbers trail while traversing the north and west sides. Summit block is fun and not too difficult, but over far too quick 

Route: From ice lake
Posted On: 8/24/2019, By: cottonmountaineering
Info: Summer conditions, fun ridge - route I felt did not exceed class 3 bit very exposed on the last bit. Traversed to golden horn, if I did it again I would probably just do it separately, so loose. 

Route: Standard
Posted On: 7/19/2018, By: illusion7il
Info: Pilot Knob, Golden Horn and US Grant are all in great shape. US Grant needs a summit register. If your worried about the crux wall on US Grant, I found it to be 2 4th class moves then 2 3rd class moves. The footholds are great but they are small. Rock shoes would definatly make this wall easier. Perfect weather today. 

Route: Standard
Posted On: 10/10/2016, By: Stratosfearsome
Info: Saturday (10/8): Golden Horn, Pilot Knob, "V4" from camp at Ice Lake (12,200ft) Warm. ~ 50F Wore running shoes. Only needed Micro Spikes and Axe for about 400feet to attain Golden Horn - Pilot Knob Saddle. Dry the rest of the way up the horn and Pilot. Little patches of snow, but avoidable. Snow was about six inches deep max. I glissade down (wheeee) to the basin and hiked up "V4" from the west. Completely Dry. Sunday (10/9): Colder (~25F) and more gray. Hiked up the trail to Island lake, then followed trail to saddle between US Grant and V2. Weather looks heavy with snow. Scrambled up East ridge of Grant. Loose and dry class 3. The hidden crux "chimney" had patches of snow but still doable with out spikes. Was snowing at noon when I reached the summit. Ran into three other guys up there. I think we were all shocked to see anyone. Cruised down and hit "V2." Sweet summit. Snowing more now and I cannot see Pilot Knob or Golden horn behind snow clouds. Hiked down to the lake and backpacked out to the jeep. Was hailing pretty hard at 5:30pm at the Clear Lake Switchback where I parked. Sorry about the poor quality, my phone is a POS and I like it. All pictures from Saturday (10/8) before it began snowing. Good luck out there! -Rob 

Route: blah
Posted On: 9/20/2014, By: Monster5
Info: All peaks free of fresh snow. Clouds started building around 11 but rain didn't hit until 2pm or so. Haven't heard any boomers yet. Advice: do these peaks in early summer with snow climb approaches and prime views. Ice Lakes Trail > Pilot Knob NE Ridge (class 4): Mostly dry with some damp trail spots. Missed the initial social trail up the scree. That was annoying. Curl around the N and W slopes on the good social trail until the rather obvious weakness and cairns pick up. Good scramble up and left to the ridge. Go over the first tower and left around the second. Rap station is in good condition, but the crux move is actually easier to reverse as it slightly ascends away from the summit. Pilot Knob > Golden Horn (class 2 once off PK). Social trail on W side stays below the summit cliffs then drops below a second cliff band. Contour around to the saddle. Scree. Bypass the big Golden Horn headwall by following the social trail over to the SW ridge. Hike that to the summit at 2nd with optional fun. Golden Horn > Vermillion (class 3, optional spice): I thought this section had the most fun variations, but some spots are a bit loose. Bypass the stuff you don't like left. Same with the summit block, though there's a low fifth dihedral that's probably more fun than the scree gully. Vermillion > Fuller (class 1/2): Follow the trail. Fuller > Beatty (class 2): Social trail switchbacks directly down the ridge. Nicer than it looks from above. Another option is to go back to the Verm/Fuller saddle and take the trail down to the Full/Beat saddle. Talus hike up B. Beatty > V8or9or10orwhatevertheheck): Probably the most interesting class 2 around. Nice catwalk, optional 3rd. V8or9orwhatever SE Ridge to SW facing scree gully ski (class 2): Thought this was reasonable and more enjoyable than going all the way to Hope Pass. Descended Mineral Creek trail/road and re-hiked up to my car at the Clear Lake switchback. 8 hrs. 12.5mi/6200. Could save 1.5 hrs with shuttle. Or park at the mine road around 10200ish on the Mineral Creek Rd and take the old mine track around into Lower Ice Lakes. This would save a couple miles and 1Kish vert.