6/25/2020 Route: Standard Route Southside Posted On: 6/25/2020, By: desertdog Info: We approached using the west fork trail near Ridgway. The upper part of the basin had some snow fields. I used spikes, but only because my approach shoes don't work well on hard snow. You could get by without traction or maybe avoid the snow all together. No snow on the route. We climbed the chimney system on Coxscomb's south side and rapped down the face on its north side, then walked up Redcliff for a double header. |
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9/11/2018 Route: Standard Posted On: 9/12/2018, By: illusion7il Info: All rap stations were good. There is even a rap station for the 1st 4th class section on climbers left. I added a new piece of webbing to the notch anchor. No summit register for Redcliff. It actually looked like someone got mad at the summit carin and kicked it over. |
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7/24/2017 Route: Standard Posted On: 7/26/2017, By: Stratosfearsome Info: Trivial snow on the approach from West Fork Rd. (Wetterhorn basin TH) no need for axe or spikes to reach technical sections. Some wet and loose rock up the standard South Facing gully to summit ridge but avoidable. 5.2 chimney has a little snow in the back but avoidable, as well. Ridge cleft has webbing for rap but brought my own. 30m rope was sufficient there. 60m would have been nice for descending the rest of the peak. A bit of snow on the North flanks of Coxcomb, below the summit block, if you're trying to traverse high to Red Cliff. (I didn't do it because I had no axe / traction) Good luck! Tough peak but really fun. Rob |
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7/3/2017 Route: SW Chimney from Middle Fork Posted On: 7/6/2017, By: Nathan Hoobler Info: We climbed El Punto on Sunday and Coxcomb on Monday. The road to Middle Fork is snow free and wide open. The approach to Middle Fork basin is wide open and snow free. There was a lot of snow in the upper basin and around the passes. We were thankful for ice axes (and crampons!) crossing a large, steep snow bank approaching the pass to climb El Punto. On Coxcomb, we were able to avoid most of the snow fields by taking alternate routes to Coxcomb Pass. No snow on the technical sections. Tiny bit of ice in the very back of the right chimney, but easily avoidable. There was new webbing at all the rap spots, but we backed up with some of our own. Terrific peak! |
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7/12/2014 Route: Std from West Fork TH Posted On: 7/17/2014, By: SnowAlien Info: 2wd road is in good shape, but there is a challenging river crossing in 4wd section. Saw several fairly burly 4x4 parked before that, but it's not a long walk/swim from the upper TH. Accessed Coxcomb from the saddle with Redcliff. There is some snow at the bottom of the climb to get to C3-4 terrain. Some running water past that and in the left chimney (the right one also had snow/ice). The upper terrain is dry. Webbing/rappel rings are in good shape. Used 2 x 30m ropes for the rappel. Rappelled most of the route as it was too wet (weather) to downclimb it safely. Route on Redcliff is completely dry. |
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9/8/2013 Route: Std from Middle Fork Posted On: 9/9/2013, By: Monster5 Info: Coxcomb, El Punto, Heisshorn, Redcliff, and surrounding UNs are presently free of snow/ice. The Middle Fork road is rough 2wd (well graded and smooth with the exception of 3-4 brief washouts). Hunters and big trucks galore. Coxcomb - webbing is currently in good condition. The ~5.3 notch is about 25 ft and a 30 m rope is more than sufficient for TRing it on the return. 2 x 30 m ropes were plenty adequate for rappelling (~65 ft) the 4th-5.0 chimneys descender‘s left. While the chimneys are only stiff 4th and arguable 5.easy, those not familiar with stemming techniques might find it awkward. Heisshorn, El Punto, and 13222(?) in Porphyry - chossy, but only c3 with careful route/hold consideration. Other UNs - class 2. Grassy ramps up all of them. Also plenty of scree and talus if that‘s your preference. Might do a report later. |
