"T 12"

Route: NW ridge up, SE ridge down
Posted On: 7/14/2025, By: SnowAlien
Info: Very nice loop combo with Oscars and UN 13,307 from Ophir pass. Took the Blixt trail up to Oscars peak, then traversed the ridge to T12 - short bit of class 3-4 (depending on the line) just below the summit. Descended SE ridge towards Columbine lake to go up and over UN 13,307. SE ridge starts as Class 2, then I found a narrow squeeze chimney (had to take my 20 L pack off as I wouldn't fit in there). The chimney felt as Class 3. Harder options were available if you don't fit in the chimney. Scree skied and boot skied down to the lake at 7mph - fast and efficient combo with UN 13,307. 

Route: S Ridge from Lookout
Posted On: 7/7/2024, By: slawrence2011
Info: Posting this since I see no TR's on this peak, and CRs appear to be from different routes (E ridge from Columbine Lake and NE face from Bridal Veil basin). The Ormes guide to the Colorado Mountains describes this ridge as being bumpy but having no great drop. Not sure whether to take that as beta or an aesthetic description, but I went for it. Very exposed moves in the first part of the traverse N of Lookout, there was a super exposed class 3/4 downclimb at one point. Then, for the next two rock blocks, it appeared the route went climbers right of the ridge crest on steep talus, I even occasionally saw a cairn or footprints. I tried to stay on the ridge crest, but there are huge impossible class 5 drops. At the final summit block, I had been inspecting it from a distance, as the S face looked impassable, but I knew the E ridge went. I then traversed toward the E ridge, took an optional class 5 easy overhang jug pull (thank God the rock didn't blow), and easy class 3 to the summit. To descend, I saw there was a trail heading to the W side of Ophir pass W of T12 and E of Oscar's mountain (we had approached lookout via E side of Ophir pass. It was fairly easy to descend the NW ridge of T12 to get to that trail, mostly class 3 or less, though I did have to cross a steep snowfield on the N side with microspikes and poles (would have rather had crampons), to avoid impassable rock on the ridge. 

Route: E ridge via Columbine Lake
Posted On: 6/30/2024, By: Boggy B
Info: Went up/down E "ridge" of the summit dome via Columbine Lake trail. In the upper basin below the lake the trail is pure soup after all the recent Wx. Couple of snowfields to cross but they're booted out. Carried axe, didn't deploy. Mud slope SE of the peak is tedious on the ascent, but very nice going down. On the E ridge I found a short solid 5.easy crack to access the top directly and avoid loose, wet rock traversing shenanigans. There are easier routes up, but this one wasn't bad. 

Route: Northeast Squeeze Chimney
Posted On: 7/31/2021, By: supranihilest
Info: From Point 13,300 E's summit I returned to the basin via 13,300 E's west ridge. I traversed under Lookout Peak's north face and into a scree and talus valley below it and "T 12". I climbed north up super loose purple scree and scrambled up loose talus to below "T 12"'s approximately northeast face. The summit block is big and intimidating; I'll describe potentially four routes up the peak. 1) On the south face is a vertical, rotting chimney. It would be at least Class 4 and very loose. I didn't spend much time checking it out and took no photos since it looked awful. 2) On the north face is a lower angle but extremely rotten chimney above a steep, very loose, highly exposed slope. I got a few moves up the right side of the chimney, ripping rocks off as I went, before I backed down because the chimney's feet were all wet mud. Microspikes would probably help if you go up this. 3) On the northeast face is a set of Class 3 steps. This was the first route I checked out because it seemed the most obvious, just scramble up the steps. That is, until one step (half gray, half black in the photo) stopped me part way up. This block is slightly overhanging, about head height, very exposed, super rotten (I was able to easily rip big chunks off by hand), wet, and covered in loose rock. I would have had to belly flop onto it and couldn't find any holds worth trusting to get up to that position anyway, so I bailed on that option. 4) Finally, just a bit left around the corner from option 3, is a big, sharp, red squeeze chimney. This seemed pretty improbable but I was surprised to find it the best option. It's only a few moves of Class 4 or Class 5.easy, pretty exposed, and the rock is solid enough to inspire confidence. Hand holds on this thing were super positive and seemed very trustworthy. It was narrow enough I couldn't fit in it with my pack so I dropped my pack at the bottom, scrambled through, and hiked up wildly exposed Class 2 covered in loose rock to the summit. I butt scooted some on the way down and scrambled back down the chimney. Whew! Once back at my pack I returned to the valley below Lookout and scree skied down the purple scree before heading to Bridal Peak.