5/29/2024 Route: From Yankee Boy Posted On: 5/30/2024, By: desertdog Info: Climbed from the Yankee Boy TH. We got a 5am start and it took us two and half hours to summit. We managed to climb good snow to the base of the summit block. We were too lazy to take our crampons off and climbed the crux in them. We did rope up for this short section. There was some good webbing already in place for the rap down. If I had it to do over I would have started earlier because the snow became super soft. Our original plan was to include Teakettle but we felt the snow was just too soft for the trip over there.With an early start I think these conditions would support a fun climb of Teakettle letting you avoid the talus hell of a dry climb. Included is a picture of Teakettle. |
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6/28/2022 Route: Yankee boy Posted On: 6/28/2022, By: zootloopz Info: Summer conditions allllll the way up. Fun extra scramble with Teakettle. |
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9/9/2021 Route: East Chimney Posted On: 9/9/2021, By: Kiefer Info: Chimney is in good shape. At least from what I remember from years ago. Left new webbing, a biner at the rap station and a register. |
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7/3/2020 Route: From Teakettle Posted On: 7/3/2020, By: dwoodward13 Info: Very visible cairn that can been seen from the lower black gully to make you way across to. We cleaned up the rap station of all the old slings and left 3 slings and 2 rap rings in good condition. |
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8/26/2019 Route: Standard Posted On: 8/27/2019, By: dcruz654 Info: Chimney below the rap slings is solid. Great holds, easy moves, not too much exposure. I soloed up and would have soloed down too if my partner didn't want to rap it. Orange sling in good condition. I untied it and fixed it, tails were waaay too short and it was girth hitched for some reason. The rest of the slings looked pretty bad, tried to clean it up but couldn't quite cut them with the knife I had. |
