5/11/2025 Route: North Ridge Posted On: 5/12/2025, By: Lubellski Info: See conditions report for California. |
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7/18/2023 Route: Lily Lake Posted On: 7/19/2023, By: JasonKline Info: We did the 13577->13660 A->13656 loop from Lily Lake. There were summer conditions, with no snow or ice. Ascending 13577 via the south side from Lily Lake involved loose talus and wasn't terribly fun. The descent from the 13660 A/13656 saddle to Lily Lake started with a loose scree/rock descent down a roughly 45 degree slope for around 900 vertical feet, followed by a talus walk to the lake. While on the summit of 13636, we met somebody who ascended from the west side via Zapata Falls. His route sounded much more pleasant, so you might want to consider that path instead of Lily Lake. |
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2/19/2022 Route: From 13660 Posted On: 2/19/2022, By: -wren- Info: Snowy class 2+/3- from 13660 to the saddle, mostly unconsolidated and unsupportive. Snowy talus hop to the summit from there, same deal, you can mostly avoid the snow. Fairly exposed, especially down to the saddle, easy moves but with the nature of the rock in this area (smooth and v slippery when wet) you definitely wanna be cautious. |
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11/13/2021 Route: Lily Lake Posted On: 11/14/2021, By: angry Info: Summer conditions. |
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6/12/2021 Route: Lily Lake Approach Posted On: 6/13/2021, By: habaceeba Info: There is about 100 yards of snow left on the headwall leading up Lily Lake, but it was negotiable without spikes or floatation. The south slope of 13,577 is not fun and I do not recommend. It wiped me out. I picked a line with the largest talus all the way up but even that was threatening to slide. Be careful if you choose this route. Except below Lily Lake, all snow on the route is gone. |
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5/15/2021 Route: From California Peak Posted On: 5/15/2021, By: supranihilest Info: Some snow, some scree and assorted loose rock to deal with. Nothing serious in either regard. Class 2. On return from 13,660 A I skirted both 13,577 and the unranked bump between it an California, which is probably about the same amount of work as just going back over them, since the slopes are very loose. No snow gear needed whatsoever. |
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5/16/2020 Route: Lily Lake Posted On: 5/17/2020, By: IHikeLikeAGirl Info: Did 13577-13660-California, descending off CA north ridge, with bushwack back to Lily Lake trail on Saturday. Brought microspikes, crampons, ice axe, gaiters. Used microspikes and gaiters. Lily Lake trail was dry to very wet, near the start, then spotty snow, then significant/continuous snow ~1 mi prior to Lily Lake (about 11k?). Lost the trail several times. Snow was hard in the morning, with an occasional post hole, we were glad to have gaiters. Short snow fields past Lily Lake. Was hoping for a line of snow to ascend the loose talus/scree, but the only one we saw, seemed to lead to unknown, cliffy, terrain. Once on the ridge, the route to 13577-13660-California, was 99.9% dry, including the bypass of 13577. Avoidable snowfields off California's north ridge. A long cornice blocked the usual descent off the ridge. Some thin spots in the cornice could be melted out very soon. We down climbed a rock outcropping (class 2+, ~10 ft), to bypass the cornice and get off the ridge. A very long snowfield below the ridge would make for a fun glissade or just a nice descent option, if conditions are right, but the snow had warmed up too much in the afternoon. Some deep snow in the trees (higher up) and we weaved a lot to minimize the post-holing. Trees aren't too thick and very little dead fall. Thanks for letting me tag along Darin, had a great time! :) pic #1 - At Lily Lake, showing snow fields. pic #2 - Ridge between 13577-13660, crux is dry, tiny snowfield at a small saddle, not a concern pic #3 - Ridge between 13577-CA pic #4 - Rock outcropping we down climbed to get through the cornice |
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6/14/2018 Route: Zapata Falls Posted On: 6/16/2018, By: JasonKline Info: Summer conditions. Ice axe and microspikes unnecessary. |
