12/31/2012 Route: SE Ridge variation Posted On: 1/1/2013, By: mattdecoste Info: Blue Lakes Rd. plowed .3 miles from Hwy 9. 2-3 inches of snow on road up to Dam. Some areas windblown revealing dirt road. Other spot on road with some drifts up to 8 inches. We used snowshowes but probably not needed. Began the standard SE ridge route doing an ascending traverse from the dam to the first basin. Then, after assessing the upper valley (standard route) from a distance decided to ascend the ridge to the west (pt 13,515) due to poor snow conditions. The initial climb up a rocky outcropping was difficult in snowshoes but the slope eased after a 2nd bump to the upper ridge that we took to the Fletcher/Quandary saddle. Several times during the steep climb to get to this ridge slabs 3-6 feet in size would break off at about 6 inches thick and slide. Not a good sign. The ridge to the saddle had 4-6 inches of crusty snow. The SE ridge to summit had 6-8 inches of snow in most places and as we were climbing another inch or so fell. Last ascent on summit register was 12/22/12 and before that was in September. |
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10/20/2012 Route: Southeast Ridge Posted On: 10/21/2012, By: Yikes Info: Road dry to dam. Minimal snow up to the first basin; a little bit of ice in the creek bed. I inadvertently took the left fork leading to a steep gully instead of heading to the slope at the back of the basin. The gully started with steep loose dirt and rock, but quickly turned into a steep snow climb. Snow was hard enough to kick good steps (took two kicks for each footstep). Near the top, I exited onto a small crappy dirt/rock knife edge. I was separated from the upper basin by about 30 feet of loose dirt, downsloping crumbling rocks with a 300+ foot drop below. There was a steep snow slope on the other side on my perch, but it was pure sugar. I tried a few times to find stable rocks to climb the final slope, but decided the slope wasn't trustable. Downclimbed and headed home. Saw two guys heading up the normal route at the back of the basin. |
