Pacific Peak

Route: Southeast Slopes
Posted On: 2/26/2019, By: osprey
Info: There is now a trench from the Boston Mine to the west ridge of Atlantic Peak. It was a battle royal to reach the ridge. Stashed the snowshoes below the ridge and switched to micro spikes. The difficulty decreased and the fun factor increased once on the ridge. Some of the Atlantic ridge was extremely narrow. Continued on to Pacific Peak. Descended from the low point on the AP saddle rather than reascend Atlantic. Saw one other person ascending Atlantic while on my way to Pacific. 

Route: East Ridge
Posted On: 9/24/2018, By: wildsidesky
Info: The east ridge and southeast slopes are summer condition as of Sunday. However, I want to add that the east ridge felt like way more solid class 3 than "easy class 3" - especially the down-climb to the last major notch. Photo 3 shows the rock one faces on the down-climb - what a trick! Even on the left-side of the ridge crest, it felt rather problematic. Maybe I was off-route, but this ridge felt more tricky than Lindsey's northwest ridge. I'll add a trip report later - but I figured folks would want conditions ASAP in this season :) The southeast slopes are a nightmare to descend. Endless scree and talus on a very steep slope. Also - the exposure along the east ridge is pretty serious and not good for the uninitiated. I was glad to have the experience I do. Have fun! 

Route: North East Slope
Posted On: 9/25/2018, By: lawsonim1
Info: The route we took was from the end of Mohawk Lakes, up the hill/ridge heading south west. Approx 39.42436N 106.11868W. Clear of any snow. Conditions good but tricky route. Class III with occasional class IV. Temptation near the top of the route is to tend to head west a little. Resist this and keep slight left (East) and it is a little easier. There is a cairn at the top of the easier route marking the route down. 

Route: East Ridge
Posted On: 9/17/2018, By: hellmanm
Info: For Pacific/Atlantic: Still summer conditions everywhere, and fall colors are peaking. One thing to note: The GPX file for the descent (pulled from the Atlantic peak route) is way off. Wrong gully, wrong track once in the basin...etc. The GPX file for Pacific is better about the gully, but the basin route is still misleading. I didn't record our route, but PM me if you have questions about this route. 

Route: West Ridge
Posted On: 9/8/2018, By: HikerGuy
Info: West Ridge is completely dry as of Saturday 9/8. Saddle between Pacific and Atlantic also dry. 

Route: Southeast Slopes
Posted On: 7/2/2018, By: BKS
Info: Crux headwall is not melted out yet. 300' of 45 degree snow is unavoidable. Too steep and long to glissade without axe. there is a bypass that only required 50' of snow, but rock around snow is terribly loose. Kicked down lots of rocks. 

Route: West Ridge
Posted On: 5/17/2018, By: B_2
Info: There is a ton of snow on the W ridge and thus we did not attempt it today despite a hard freeze. We traversed to Pacific along ridge from Atlantic and then to Pacific-Crystal saddle to descend. East bowl of Atl/Pac still has plenty of snow and Pacific Tarn is still frozen. Flotation is required in the basins! 

Route: West Ridge
Posted On: 3/31/2018, By: graberz
Info: We completed pacific peak via west ridge and then over to Atlantic peak. From Atlantic summit we followed the ridge and cut down to pacific creek. The west ridge route yielded plenty of class 3 and sometimes 4 scrambling as we got off route due to snow features.. Lots of opportunity for exposure. We did not use crampons because the snow was mostly too soft but we did carry them. Ice axe was needed as we climbed snow fields at times. Snow shoes needed to get to the west ridge. Snow was Supportive in morning and plenty of post holing in afternoon. We stored snow shoes down by the creek and came down the ridge early off Atlantic to pick them up. Atlantic peak ridge has one specific section that we argued how safe it was, but did end up crossing it. It could be avoidable by dropping down and traversing the pacific side of the ridge. Round trip was 7.5 hours. No one else on pacific/one snowboarder maybe on Atlantic. 

Route: Area
Posted On: 12/3/2017, By: WillRobnett
Info: Distant photo from across Hoosier Pass. Quandary is the foreground ridge with the east ridge of Pacific sunlit. Crystal is the peak centered with the higher ridge on the right. Storm expected to add a new layer of snow tomorrow. 

Route: From Atlantic
Posted On: 10/15/2017, By: koeffling
Info: The trail down from Atlantic was snowy but firm or avoidable with some rock hopping. The ridge up to Pacific from the saddle was nearly dry or snow was easily avoidable. 

Route: West Ridge
Posted On: 9/17/2017, By: cardgenius
Info: Had a good dusting of snow in the morning so we waited till noon to climb. Most of the snow melted off of the ridge but there were pockets of snow that was sticking around in the shade. No spikes needed yet. Rock is very loose so take your time and be careful! 

Route: East Ridge
Posted On: 8/14/2017, By: E_A_Marcus_949
Info: One snowfield to cross on the way up to the ridge from the small parking area. Could probably be avoided though if you went around or depending the route you take from the parking area. See picture for the route we took to get to the ridge. Took about 2.5 hours to cross the ridge itself. We were on top of the ridge a lot and also went left of the ridge if things got dicey. Myself and the two others I was with thought it was solid class 3, not 'easy' class 3. Went down Atlantic NE slopes. Scree spree, especially with the snow field cutting through most of the 'standard route' down. Very steep and loose, take your time, lots of rock fall potential. 

Route: East Ridge
Posted On: 6/26/2017, By: toxqan
Info: A little snow remains on the slopes of the cirque leading to the ridge. I detoured a bit to find a less steep section but that was easily handled with microspikes and would probably be fine without. There was no snow on the ridge itself or the final climb to the top. The scrambling was fantastic and unrelenting. Rock towers kept appearing as though they were hidden by an optical illusion. The descent from the Atlantic - Pacific saddle to McCullough gulch was a different story. Suncupped snow pretty much the entire way until the lake at 11,900ft, much of it unavoidable. There was an area from 13,200ft were the only reasonable descent path required a steep glissade. Thankfully I made it down but regret not bringing an ice axe. 

Route: East Slopes
Posted On: 6/18/2017, By: Jorts
Info: Climbed consolation couloir (lookers rightmost Hawaii coolie) above Mohawk Lakes. The water is high and the riparian areas are saturated. There is still a lot of snow in the HI coolies. Climbed the snow at 0900, supportive and moderately sticky. The upper east ridge to Pac was mostly clear of snow. 

Route: West Ridge
Posted On: 6/16/2017, By: Count40
Info: Only pictures from Mayflower Hill. You can see for yourself, but just briefly: Lots of snow from the mine 4WD TH (and not accessible by car yet, btw), then through basin past the willows and up the drainage to the Pacific/Atlantic basin. Pacific West Ridge quite dry, with many snow patches, but without cornices. And you know the story about dancing between early harder snow, later softer snow. and snowshoes and postholing.