Blanca Peak Trip Report 07/04/2011

Report Type	Full
Peak(s)	Blanca Peak - 14,350 feet Ellingwood Point - 14,057 feet Little Bear Peak - 14,041 feet Mt. Lindsey - 14,055 feet
Date Posted	07/04/2011
Date Climbed	06/27/2011
Author	Nelson

Tour de Sange, Part 2
Sangre de Cristo, Part 2 The Blanca Group. Flush with success and convinced I was in the right area I drove to Alamosa to clean up and have a hot meal. On the morning of the 26th I drove to the Lake Como trailhead. From the road (160) I drove 3.2 miles to an altitude of 8848 ft., a new personal best. The Lake Como road As I hiked up the 3000 ft to Lake Como I passed many people on the way down. Little Bear towering above Lake Como They all seemed to have done Blanca and/or Ellingwood but no one had done Little Bear. I knew there was virtually no snow from Lake Como to Blanca or Ellingwood but I knew little about LB. I had seen a trip report about a week or two old that said snow was not a factor but apart from that I had no Beta. I made the lake in about 2 ½ hours and I set up camp. The 27th I was up at 4 and moving at 4:45. I headed for Blanca first but made the mistake of going too high. Mt. Lindsey I gained the Ridge at about 14,000 ft. instead of the intended 13,750. My route was direct but not efficient and I reckon this cost me a half hour or so. Once I was on the ridge things were straight forward and I summitted at 7:45. Little Bear and the traverse Ellingwood The traverse from Blanca to Ellingwood I took a break and many pictures and headed back to the Ellingwood cut off. This time I studied the route carefully and set off for Ellingwood. I was on top in a couple of hours and again took a break for pictures and food. Blanca Peak Blanca/LB traverse I headed down and was back in camp for lunch and an afternoon break. Crater Lake Cairn Art I was not sure of the conditions on Little Bear so I thought it better to start a little later, 6 am to allow the snow, if any, to soften up. I headed up the horrible scree/talus/dirt pitch to the ridge. Couloir leading to Little Bear From there I traversed below the ridge towards the hour glass. When I got my first view of the hour glass my heart dropped. Snow apron under the hour glass I could see a distinct snow apron right underneath the hour glass apparently blocking the way. As I got closer I could see that the snowfield could easily be bypassed on either side. When I was right under the hour glass I could see that there was no snow or ice in the hour glass itself. The hour glass The rope in the hourglass There was a rivulet of water coming done but nothing threatening. Game on! I made a tactical move and took one of my Roctanes and headed up. The ridge leading to LB For LB this was perfect summer conditions. 17> There were lots of loose rock but I stayed left where the climbing was a bit harder but the rock much better. I was on top shortly after 9 and went through my ritual of eating, taking pictures, sending SPOT messages and thanksgiving. The anchor A closer look at the rope. I headed down and was back in camp before noon. After lunch I broke camp and headed down. My next goal was the Huerfano trailhead west of Gardner but I made the obligatory stop in Walsenburg at the world famous Karl, Jr's for a burger. Driving to the trailhead was no problem and I car camped the night. In the morning I was off at 6am for the Northwest Ridge of Lindsey. The Huerfano crossing This is a delightful scramble which is a much more pleasant alternative to the North couloir. Mt. Lindsey The Northwest ridge Again, I was back at the car in plenty of time for lunch. Easier terrain False Summit. I headed afterwards to Westcliffe for a shower, shave, hot meal and a night in a bed at the Courtyard Inn. Mt. Lindsey Summit Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Tour de Sange, Part 2

Sangre de Cristo, Part 2
The Blanca Group.

Flush with success and convinced I was in the right area I drove to Alamosa to clean up and have a hot meal. On the morning of the 26th I drove to the Lake Como trailhead. From the road (160) I drove 3.2 miles to an altitude of 8848 ft., a new personal best.

As I hiked up the 3000 ft to Lake Como I passed many people on the way down.

They all seemed to have done Blanca and/or Ellingwood but no one had done Little Bear. I knew there was virtually no snow from Lake Como to Blanca or Ellingwood but I knew little about LB. I had seen a trip report about a week or two old that said snow was not a factor but apart from that I had no Beta.

I made the lake in about 2 ½ hours and I set up camp. The 27th I was up at 4 and moving at 4:45. I headed for Blanca first but made the mistake of going too high.

I gained the Ridge at about 14,000 ft. instead of the intended 13,750. My route was direct but not efficient and I reckon this cost me a half hour or so. Once I was on the ridge things were straight forward and I summitted at 7:45.

I took a break and many pictures and headed back to the Ellingwood cut off. This time I studied the route carefully and set off for Ellingwood. I was on top in a couple of hours and again took a break for pictures and food.

I headed down and was back in camp for lunch and an afternoon break.

I was not sure of the conditions on Little Bear so I thought it better to start a little later, 6 am to allow the snow, if any, to soften up. I headed up the horrible scree/talus/dirt pitch to the ridge.

From there I traversed below the ridge towards the hour glass. When I got my first view of the hour glass my heart dropped.

I could see a distinct snow apron right underneath the hour glass apparently blocking the way. As I got closer I could see that the snowfield could easily be bypassed on either side. When I was right under the hour glass I could see that there was no snow or ice in the hour glass itself.

There was a rivulet of water coming done but nothing threatening. Game on! I made a tactical move and took one of my Roctanes and headed up.

For LB this was perfect summer conditions. 16<img

17> There were lots of loose rock but I stayed left where the climbing was a bit harder but the rock much better. I was on top shortly after 9 and went through my ritual of eating, taking pictures, sending SPOT messages and thanksgiving.

I headed down and was back in camp before noon. After lunch I broke camp and headed down.

My next goal was the Huerfano trailhead west of Gardner but I made the obligatory stop in Walsenburg at the world famous Karl, Jr's for a burger. Driving to the trailhead was no problem and I car camped the night. In the morning I was off at 6am for the Northwest Ridge of Lindsey.

This is a delightful scramble which is a much more pleasant alternative to the North couloir.

Again, I was back at the car in plenty of time for lunch.

I headed afterwards to Westcliffe for a shower, shave, hot meal and a night in a bed at the Courtyard Inn.

Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Comments or Questions

alpspitze	Awesome! 7/5/2011 2:39pm Gotta be nice to be able to enjoy great places like the Sangre's and peaks all over the world for that matter!
Nelson	Mountains 7/5/2011 2:43pm It really is. I feel blessed to be doing this at my age. Nelson
MtnHub	Super photos! 7/6/2011 2:17am What a fabulous trip! You're an inspiration! Thanks for posting! :D
Lumber JAC	Great post! 7/8/2011 12:51pm Summited lindsey last year. One of the best climbs! going for the triple from lake como later this month. Great inspiration. You've boosted my confidence Thanks

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