OTHER Trip Report 02/15/2014

Report Type	Full
Peak(s)	Horsetooth Mountain - 7255 Middle Tooth - 7248
Date Posted	02/15/2014
Date Climbed	01/24/2014
Author	Brian C

Horsetooth's "Middle Tooth"
Horsetooth Mountain via South Ridge (3rd class) "Middle Tooth" via East Face (5.4) January 24, 2014 Solo Having had several friends climb the Middle Tooth recently, I had meant to get up there and check it out. The rating on LoJ had said 4th class, but after talking to Brian and Mike about their recent climbs I expected a tad more. Figuring that it would be reasonable if at least one person had called it 4th class, I opted to leave my rock shoes at home but I did bring a rope for the way down. The hike up went quickly and the recent snow seemed to be melting fast. I soon stood below the intimidating chimney at the bottom of the Middle Tooth. Doubt started to creep into my mind but I still held onto hope that it would be more straight forward than it appeared from below. Wiping my shoes off I started up the chimney. The climbing steepened immediately and turned vertical with positive hands/feet as it squeezed through a small hole behind a chockstone. The stone provided a nice resting spot but also provided a lingering patch of snow. This was a question mark in the route and I found myself unsure what to do. Mike and Brian had both committed to the face to the left of the chimney instead of tackling the intimidating cleft above but both agreed it was low 5th class, not 4th. Not wanting to miss an easier option, I moved further up into the chimney cautiously dodging the damp walls. My doubts came rushing back as I moved over the first of two overhanging chockstones and found myself making moves significantly harder than 4th class. My chest was over the final chockstone and I could see easier ground above, but there was nothing for hands or feet. My pack was wedged uncomfortably and I had to stop to calm my nerves and control my breathing before reversing the committing moves I had made up to this point. Fortunately, the climb back to the first chockstone went smoothly I and I carefully moved out onto the face while trying to avoid small patched of lingering snow. From here the face above looked promising and I committed to the small bulge above. The higher position was much worse than I had expected from below the moves were similar to many slab pitches I had done in the Flatirons. Cursing my shoes, I found myself in a position were a downclimb would not have been an option. Trying to remain as calm as possible, I moved up the tiny holds upward onto the face. Just as I was starting to reach a panic point, I reached a good hole and easier terrain to the summit. My first thought was how glad I was to have brought a rope for the rappel down, as reversing the moves without climbing shoes would have been much more dangerous than the ascent. The people over on the north summit seemed surprised to see me and I chatted briefly with them across the gap. The chimney splits the whole upper face and I carefully climbed over the snowy slabs to the highest point. I sat for a good while on the summit taking in the views before heading down. The wind really picked up as I tossed my rope into the notch to the south and made a 50-60' rappel straight south. Happy to be back on the ground, I quickly stowed my rope and made up the easy ridge line to the southern summit. The wind was now gusting unpleasantly over the summit so my stay was short, but the sun cast a nice afternoon glow over the Front Range. Overall it was a grand outing and would have been trivial if dry and with appropriate shoes. I would rate the upper bit as 5.4 and I would imagine the upper slab to deserve a "S" rating due to the compact rock. The rope was greatly appreciated for the descent but the webbing up top needs to be replaced. Be careful of LoJ mystery ratings!! More photos can be found here. http://www.brianinthewild.com/horsetooth-mountain-south-ridge-middle-tooth-east-face.html

Horsetooth's "Middle Tooth"

Horsetooth Mountain via South Ridge (3rd class)
"Middle Tooth" via East Face (5.4)
January 24, 2014
Solo

Having had several friends climb the Middle Tooth recently, I had meant to get up there and check it out. The rating on LoJ had said 4th class, but after talking to Brian and Mike about their recent climbs I expected a tad more. Figuring that it would be reasonable if at least one person had called it 4th class, I opted to leave my rock shoes at home but I did bring a rope for the way down. The hike up went quickly and the recent snow seemed to be melting fast. I soon stood below the intimidating chimney at the bottom of the Middle Tooth. Doubt started to creep into my mind but I still held onto hope that it would be more straight forward than it appeared from below. Wiping my shoes off I started up the chimney.

The climbing steepened immediately and turned vertical with positive hands/feet as it squeezed through a small hole behind a chockstone. The stone provided a nice resting spot but also provided a lingering patch of snow. This was a question mark in the route and I found myself unsure what to do. Mike and Brian had both committed to the face to the left of the chimney instead of tackling the intimidating cleft above but both agreed it was low 5th class, not 4th. Not wanting to miss an easier option, I moved further up into the chimney cautiously dodging the damp walls. My doubts came rushing back as I moved over the first of two overhanging chockstones and found myself making moves significantly harder than 4th class. My chest was over the final chockstone and I could see easier ground above, but there was nothing for hands or feet. My pack was wedged uncomfortably and I had to stop to calm my nerves and control my breathing before reversing the committing moves I had made up to this point. Fortunately, the climb back to the first chockstone went smoothly I and I carefully moved out onto the face while trying to avoid small patched of lingering snow. From here the face above looked promising and I committed to the small bulge above. The higher position was much worse than I had expected from below the moves were similar to many slab pitches I had done in the Flatirons. Cursing my shoes, I found myself in a position were a downclimb would not have been an option. Trying to remain as calm as possible, I moved up the tiny holds upward onto the face. Just as I was starting to reach a panic point, I reached a good hole and easier terrain to the summit.

My first thought was how glad I was to have brought a rope for the rappel down, as reversing the moves without climbing shoes would have been much more dangerous than the ascent. The people over on the north summit seemed surprised to see me and I chatted briefly with them across the gap. The chimney splits the whole upper face and I carefully climbed over the snowy slabs to the highest point. I sat for a good while on the summit taking in the views before heading down. The wind really picked up as I tossed my rope into the notch to the south and made a 50-60' rappel straight south. Happy to be back on the ground, I quickly stowed my rope and made up the easy ridge line to the southern summit. The wind was now gusting unpleasantly over the summit so my stay was short, but the sun cast a nice afternoon glow over the Front Range. Overall it was a grand outing and would have been trivial if dry and with appropriate shoes. I would rate the upper bit as 5.4 and I would imagine the upper slab to deserve a "S" rating due to the compact rock. The rope was greatly appreciated for the descent but the webbing up top needs to be replaced. Be careful of LoJ mystery ratings!!

More photos can be found here.
http://www.brianinthewild.com/horsetooth-mountain-south-ridge-middle-tooth-east-face.html

Comments or Questions

dpage

I wasn't feeling the class 4 rating
2/16/2014 2:31am

And not being much of a climber needed a hand for my feet on the start of the face when I went with Mike, Dave, etc. The tour de tooth for all 3 made for a nice day though.

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