Crestone Peak Trip Report 09/26/2017

Report Type	Full
Peak(s)	Crestone Peak - 14,299 feet
Date Posted	09/26/2017
Date Climbed	09/02/2017
Author	PaulVee

Crestone Peak via Cottonwood Creek
Took the Cottonwood Creek approach to Crestone Peak and had an awesome time. Not sure if I can add any beta but maybe some comments and opinions. One thing for sure is the Cottonwood Creek approach is gorgeous, especially once you take the left hand drainage towards the Cottonwood Lake basin. Add in a gorgeous early September day (with no afternoon t-storms) and my bro Tommy and my first class 3 success was amazing! We left the trailhead at 4:30AM to get a head start. The first 3 miles up the Cottonwood Creek trail are straightforward. Over the next mile, as you hit the 'Boilerplate Slabs' section (phrased coined by Roach and mentioned in other TRs for this route), it is still quite easy to follow the cairns. And almost all of the deadfall (mentioned in older TRs) is cleared out for easy passage. Cool waterfall on the way up Cottonwood Creek Trail The entrance to the Boiler Plate slabs.. creepy root!! The Boiler Plate slabs... if dry --> no problem very interesting rock those Boiler Plate slabs are We met some really cool campers at about the 4 mile mark as we finished passing the 'Boilerplate Slabs' section. This was about the section where you take the left drainage towards the Crestones (vs staying right towards Milwaukee Peak). The campers mentioned that once you turn up into this next drainage, that it is basically a section of 3 waterfalls up to the Cottonwood Lake area / basin. We decided to call this the 'Waterfalls Section'. The terrain becomes very steep as you begin this section. You will see on the gpx track that there is a bit of a circle as the trail turns left. This is because this is the only way to get up the steepness. Basically the 'Waterfalls Section' is 3 cliff bands that you have to navigate up and around. The trail is sparse and there are different options. In the end though, stay left of the creek and keep going higher in the drainage! You can navigate the slabs closer to the waterfalls or rock hop through steep wooded area to the left of the slabs. No matter which way you go through the 'Waterfalls Section' it is all fun rock scambling. Previous reports / threads discuss whether to go way high on the talus fields to the left to avoid the willows between cliff bands (and even some of the bands themselves). We felt that would have cost us a lot more energy with the trek up the Red Gully still in front of us. So, we stuck as close to the left of the creek as possible... there was a little bit of willow-bush-red-sea-parting goin' on, but wasn't really bad.... there's kind of a small trail underneath a lot of those willows. Looking up the first of the 3 waterfalls in the 'Waterfall Section' Views to the South as you make your way towards the basin The second and coolest looking waterfall in the "Waterfall Section". This photo taken on the way down (mid-afterno Tommy navigating some of the steep slabs to get up the "Waterfalls Section" Looking down from the 2nd waterfall in the "Waterfalls Section" As you near the finish of the cliff bands / "Waterfalls Section".. finally and WOW!!! You are staring at the might After about 5 miles you connect with standard trail to Crestone Peak. Off topic, but we did happen to see a large man sleeping on the side of the trail (no tent or anything.. just passed out in the grass). Certainly a nice place for a nap, but a bizarre scene in terms of the context? Anyway, it is just stunning to see the Peak and the Needle for the first time!! And this tidbit... if you are are taking this route and only heading straight to the Peak, you will actually never see Cottonwood Lake. It is just one quick detour if you want to run over and see it... but this is the case. The Red Gully and the summit block are just insane. We took our time and steadily made it up the gully. The rock in the gully is mostly solid but there are some loose spots to watch out for. Ran into a a really nice couple from Maryland (like me) who had moved out to Colorado just to be able to climb mountains!! (Me --> jealous, and told them so). The summit block was great stable rock, and while airy, not bad at all. Near the summit, we met these two young guys who were like mountain goats. They had taken Ellingwood Arite up the Needle, then made up their own variation of traverse from Neede to Peak but staying more on the ridge. These kids were basically crazy and we told 'em to please be careful! First up close of the Red Gully!! Getting closer to the Red Gully Starting up the Red Gully. We met these cool folks (pic'd here) from Maryland (oh, that's where I'm from!)... The Red Gully Tommy looking up the Red Gully The Red Gully Looking down part way up the Red Gully That's me in the Gully! Gettin' steep! Looking down from the top of the Red Gully from the saddle, looking towards the summit block... the true summit is beyond this apparent summit... but not far Cool view to the South Looking North to Kit Carson and Challenger Point from the saddle Northeast Crestone Tommy looking over the route up the summit block Almost there! A couple of cool cats were already hangin' on top! Pulling my way over the final rock!! Awesome pano from the top! East Crestone from the top pure ruggedness.... awesome! We did it!! Love this view to the valley to the West... looks like space to earth or something The bad boy Needle Hooray! We're on top of Crestone Peak! more cool panos Northeast Crestone, East Crestone and Crestone Needle not sure but might be Humbolt in the background? The Needle and beyond! Given it was our first successful class 3 14er, I'm sure you can imagine after 6+ miles one-way and close to 6000K elev gain, we were feelin' pretty stoked to be sitting on that summit!! If you are looking to take a less traveled 14er route and can deal with a little extra length and ascent, this route is really fantastic. It was an epic adventure for Tommy and me and a day we both agreed we would remember for the rest of our lives. *So here are some thoughts relating to beginning into class 3s in general. I would say I DO think this is a fairly decent choice for someone looking to do their first class 3. Now I caveat that with the fact that you do need to be in decent shape as that trek up the gully itself is long! (It took us 2 hours to go up and 2 hours to come down just the gully itself!) ... but, the thing that is nice is that there really isn't huge exposure. There are spots where if you fell, you could get banged up real bad and could even die, so obviously you have to be careful. But even the summit block itself, if you stay to the ridge a bit and go for a slightly harder climbing move, you completely bypass the 1000 ft drop-off type of exposure I would imagine you normally see on class 3 routes. Even something like Kelso Ridge (which spooked me into turning around) has (I think) more exposure than this route. Something to think about if you want to try a class 3.* The way down was long and painful as most way downs are... Those last 3 miles really hurt once you are on a somewhat boring trail after having seen the insanity we saw earlier... UUUggggghhh. Total stats 13.25 miles RT, 15 hours (yes, we're slow old geezers .... but we were also taking the time to enjoy the sites!), 5800+ elev gain My GPS Tracks on Google Maps (made from a .GPX file upload): Login required to view this map... Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Crestone Peak via Cottonwood Creek

Took the Cottonwood Creek approach to Crestone Peak and had an awesome time. Not sure if I can add any beta but maybe some comments and opinions. One thing for sure is the Cottonwood Creek approach is gorgeous, especially once you take the left hand drainage towards the Cottonwood Lake basin. Add in a gorgeous early September day (with no afternoon t-storms) and my bro Tommy and my first class 3 success was amazing!

We left the trailhead at 4:30AM to get a head start. The first 3 miles up the Cottonwood Creek trail are straightforward. Over the next mile, as you hit the 'Boilerplate Slabs' section (phrased coined by Roach and mentioned in other TRs for this route), it is still quite easy to follow the cairns. And almost all of the deadfall (mentioned in older TRs) is cleared out for easy passage.

Cool waterfall on the way up Cottonwood Creek Trail

The entrance to the Boiler Plate slabs.. creepy root!!

The Boiler Plate slabs... if dry --> no problem

very interesting rock those Boiler Plate slabs are

We met some really cool campers at about the 4 mile mark as we finished passing the 'Boilerplate Slabs' section. This was about the section where you take the left drainage towards the Crestones (vs staying right towards Milwaukee Peak). The campers mentioned that once you turn up into this next drainage, that it is basically a section of 3 waterfalls up to the Cottonwood Lake area / basin. We decided to call this the 'Waterfalls Section'. The terrain becomes very steep as you begin this section. You will see on the gpx track that there is a bit of a circle as the trail turns left. This is because this is the only way to get up the steepness.

Basically the 'Waterfalls Section' is 3 cliff bands that you have to navigate up and around. The trail is sparse and there are different options. In the end though, stay left of the creek and keep going higher in the drainage! You can navigate the slabs closer to the waterfalls or rock hop through steep wooded area to the left of the slabs.

No matter which way you go through the 'Waterfalls Section' it is all fun rock scambling. Previous reports / threads discuss whether to go way high on the talus fields to the left to avoid the willows between cliff bands (and even some of the bands themselves). We felt that would have cost us a lot more energy with the trek up the Red Gully still in front of us. So, we stuck as close to the left of the creek as possible... there was a little bit of willow-bush-red-sea-parting goin' on, but wasn't really bad.... there's kind of a small trail underneath a lot of those willows.

Looking up the first of the 3 waterfalls in the 'Waterfall Section'

Views to the South as you make your way towards the basin

The second and coolest looking waterfall in the "Waterfall Section". This photo taken on the way down (mid-afterno

Tommy navigating some of the steep slabs to get up the "Waterfalls Section"

Looking down from the 2nd waterfall in the "Waterfalls Section"

As you near the finish of the cliff bands / "Waterfalls Section".. finally and WOW!!! You are staring at the might

After about 5 miles you connect with standard trail to Crestone Peak. Off topic, but we did happen to see a large man sleeping on the side of the trail (no tent or anything.. just passed out in the grass). Certainly a nice place for a nap, but a bizarre scene in terms of the context? Anyway, it is just stunning to see the Peak and the Needle for the first time!! And this tidbit... if you are are taking this route and only heading straight to the Peak, you will actually never see Cottonwood Lake. It is just one quick detour if you want to run over and see it... but this is the case.

The Red Gully and the summit block are just insane. We took our time and steadily made it up the gully. The rock in the gully is mostly solid but there are some loose spots to watch out for. Ran into a a really nice couple from Maryland (like me) who had moved out to Colorado just to be able to climb mountains!! (Me --> jealous, and told them so). The summit block was great stable rock, and while airy, not bad at all. Near the summit, we met these two young guys who were like mountain goats. They had taken Ellingwood Arite up the Needle, then made up their own variation of traverse from Neede to Peak but staying more on the ridge. These kids were basically crazy and we told 'em to please be careful!

Starting up the Red Gully. We met these cool folks (pic'd here) from Maryland (oh, that's where I'm from!)...

Looking down from the top of the Red Gully

from the saddle, looking towards the summit block... the true summit is beyond this apparent summit... but not far

Looking North to Kit Carson and Challenger Point from the saddle

Tommy looking over the route up the summit block

Almost there! A couple of cool cats were already hangin' on top!

Pulling my way over the final rock!! Awesome pano from the top!

Love this view to the valley to the West... looks like space to earth or something

Northeast Crestone, East Crestone and Crestone Needle

not sure but might be Humbolt in the background?

Given it was our first successful class 3 14er, I'm sure you can imagine after 6+ miles one-way and close to 6000K elev gain, we were feelin' pretty stoked to be sitting on that summit!!

If you are looking to take a less traveled 14er route and can deal with a little extra length and ascent, this route is really fantastic. It was an epic adventure for Tommy and me and a day we both agreed we would remember for the rest of our lives.

***So here are some thoughts relating to beginning into class 3s in general. I would say I DO think this is a fairly decent choice for someone looking to do their first class 3. Now I caveat that with the fact that you do need to be in decent shape as that trek up the gully itself is long! (It took us 2 hours to go up and 2 hours to come down just the gully itself!) ... but, the thing that is nice is that there really isn't huge exposure. There are spots where if you fell, you could get banged up real bad and could even die, so obviously you have to be careful. But even the summit block itself, if you stay to the ridge a bit and go for a slightly harder climbing move, you completely bypass the 1000 ft drop-off type of exposure I would imagine you normally see on class 3 routes. Even something like Kelso Ridge (which spooked me into turning around) has (I think) more exposure than this route. Something to think about if you want to try a class 3.***

The way down was long and painful as most way downs are... Those last 3 miles really hurt once you are on a somewhat boring trail after having seen the insanity we saw earlier... UUUggggghhh. Total stats 13.25 miles RT, 15 hours (yes, we're slow old geezers .... but we were also taking the time to enjoy the sites!), 5800+ elev gain

My GPS Tracks on Google Maps (made from a .GPX file upload):

Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Comments or Questions

Hoot	Love that approach 9/26/2017 3:46pm Nice TR and pix! The Cottonwood Creek approach is one of my favorite 14er approaches (I've hiked it twice) to one of my favorite peaks (the Needle).
Kitten	Nice accomplishment! 9/26/2017 7:29pm Thanks for the trip report, this route to Crestone Peak has been on my long list for a while as a backpacking trip. After seeing your pictures and report it went to the top of the list, I'll have to try it soon!
Trotter	nice 9/26/2017 10:36pm I always wondered what the cottonwood creek approach looks like.
Jay521	VERY nice! 9/27/2017 8:40am That is one nice TR - Please keep 'em coming.
TakeMeToYourSummit	Colony Baldy... 9/27/2017 12:52pm ...is the peak in the background of your one pic. Humboldt is hiding behind East Crestone. Nice job & a great TR (your 1st?)! Trotter - Andrea & I had discussed coming up the Cottonwood approach, camping, & going for Crestolita & the other 13ers in that area in a year or 2... I'll let you know! *Edit... I see your other reports now. Nice job, nonetheless!

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