Wilson Peak Trip Report 07/14/2022

Report Type	Full
Peak(s)	Wilson Peak - 14,021 feet
Date Posted	07/14/2022
Date Climbed	07/14/2022
Author	jwagz13

Wilson Peak- Southwest Ridge
This is my first trip report even though I've been hiking/climbing 14ers since 1994. Thought it was about time to give back to all the other folks who have helped provide beta over the years in this forum. Sorry for the photos if they are out of order- again - rookie on the uploads. Went solo- as am fairly competent up high- decent fitness level even though my 46 year old body hates the downhills. Left Telluride around 4:15am, got to Rock of Ages approx. 455ish, road was clear, a little crossing but any car can handle. Spoke with a couple of folks heading out a few minutes before me. Took my time and left TH at 5:25am. First section easy and enjoyable. Once on the road, decent little steady climb (passed the couple who left 10-15min before me) to a signpost for Rock of Ages. Appears there are two main ways from here to begin the steepish talus/rock/dirt climb to a more moderate trail to the saddle. I went right and found it to be steep but no breaks needed to the saddle. Once at the ROA saddle, left my trekking poles (more about that later) and using photos from previous posts was able to easily traverse over to Gladstone? saddle. Took 12-15 min or so, class 2 mostly. From this saddle, can see how folks are not sure on the next part. I read that some folks went high and through the years, I've learned to basically shoot the gap or go low and climb high again as needed rather than go high and get screwed down climbing. Found this next section to false summit slow going- mainly to ensure good footing (dry day helped). Couple early class 3 sections then found the rest to false summit pretty straightforward. Once on false summit, double checked my photos of the route photos :) to navigate over to the "gash". The down climb was pretty straight forward, just go slow as it is exposed and climb up steady rock to the right of the gash. Class 3 moves, but may feel like class 4 if no exp. From the top of the gash went left and easy few feet to the summit. The Gladstone saddle (2nd saddle) to summit took 30 min of moving slow, steady but not really stopping too much. Just look ahead once and while and can see the path. Start 5:25am, summit just before 8:15am. There was a couple of folks already on the summit and they said I was moving fast (they had left an hour earlier than me and had been on the summit for only 10 min prior). Hung out on top for awhile -close to 30 min- clear day, enjoyed the company then headed down. The other folks and I agreed I would go first and we'd space out along the way. Down climbing next to the "gash" was steady, focused effort but all solid holds. Headed over to and up false summit where I saw the folks I met at the TH. A couple folks were coming behind them. Once over the false summit and back on the traverse over to Gladstone saddle (?), I found myself going pretty much same route back, but somehow ended up lower than I wanted. Like I mentioned, would rather go lower and climb up than risk higher exposure. Made it back to ROA saddle no issues until Mr. Marmot was chewing on the handles of my ski poles. What a laugh. I am glad I did not take my poles higher- no need- they also don't collapse. Had to route find a little on the scree/talus descent back to the road, but all in all was a great hike, clear day and loads of fun. Back at ROA TH by 11am. Hope this helps. Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Wilson Peak- Southwest Ridge

This is my first trip report even though I've been hiking/climbing 14ers since 1994. Thought it was about time to give back to all the other folks who have helped provide beta over the years in this forum. Sorry for the photos if they are out of order- again - rookie on the uploads.

Went solo- as am fairly competent up high- decent fitness level even though my 46 year old body hates the downhills. Left Telluride around 4:15am, got to Rock of Ages approx. 455ish, road was clear, a little crossing but any car can handle. Spoke with a couple of folks heading out a few minutes before me. Took my time and left TH at 5:25am. First section easy and enjoyable. Once on the road, decent little steady climb (passed the couple who left 10-15min before me) to a signpost for Rock of Ages. Appears there are two main ways from here to begin the steepish talus/rock/dirt climb to a more moderate trail to the saddle. I went right and found it to be steep but no breaks needed to the saddle.

Once at the ROA saddle, left my trekking poles (more about that later) and using photos from previous posts was able to easily traverse over to Gladstone? saddle. Took 12-15 min or so, class 2 mostly. From this saddle, can see how folks are not sure on the next part. I read that some folks went high and through the years, I've learned to basically shoot the gap or go low and climb high again as needed rather than go high and get screwed down climbing. Found this next section to false summit slow going- mainly to ensure good footing (dry day helped). Couple early class 3 sections then found the rest to false summit pretty straightforward.

Once on false summit, double checked my photos of the route photos :) to navigate over to the "gash". The down climb was pretty straight forward, just go slow as it is exposed and climb up steady rock to the right of the gash. Class 3 moves, but may feel like class 4 if no exp. From the top of the gash went left and easy few feet to the summit. The Gladstone saddle (2nd saddle) to summit took 30 min of moving slow, steady but not really stopping too much. Just look ahead once and while and can see the path.

Start 5:25am, summit just before 8:15am. There was a couple of folks already on the summit and they said I was moving fast (they had left an hour earlier than me and had been on the summit for only 10 min prior).

Hung out on top for awhile -close to 30 min- clear day, enjoyed the company then headed down. The other folks and I agreed I would go first and we'd space out along the way. Down climbing next to the "gash" was steady, focused effort but all solid holds. Headed over to and up false summit where I saw the folks I met at the TH. A couple folks were coming behind them.

Once over the false summit and back on the traverse over to Gladstone saddle (?), I found myself going pretty much same route back, but somehow ended up lower than I wanted. Like I mentioned, would rather go lower and climb up than risk higher exposure. Made it back to ROA saddle no issues until Mr. Marmot was chewing on the handles of my ski poles. What a laugh. I am glad I did not take my poles higher- no need- they also don't collapse.

Had to route find a little on the scree/talus descent back to the road, but all in all was a great hike, clear day and loads of fun. Back at ROA TH by 11am. Hope this helps.

Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Comments or Questions

ndomke

Nice TR
7/15/2022 1:19pm

Thanks for the beta on the route to Wilson Peak. I'm hoping to get after this one soon and possibly add the traverse to Gladstone while I am down there.

Caution: The information contained in this report may not be accurate and should not be the only resource used in preparation for your climb. Failure to have the necessary experience, physical conditioning, supplies or equipment can result in injury or death. 14ers.com and the author(s) of this report provide no warranties, either express or implied, that the information provided is accurate or reliable. By using the information provided, you agree to indemnify and hold harmless 14ers.com and the report author(s) with respect to any claims and demands against them, including any attorney fees and expenses. Please read the 14ers.com Safety and Disclaimer pages for more information.

Please respect private property: 14ers.com supports the rights of private landowners to determine how and by whom their land will be used. In Colorado, it is your responsibility to determine if land is private and to obtain the appropriate permission before entering the property.

14ers.com

Social

Mobile App