Unnamed 13656 Trip Report 01/01/2024

Report Type	Full
Peak(s)	Unnamed 13656 - 13,656 feet "Huerfanito" - 13,083 feet
Date Posted	01/01/2024
Modified	03/31/2025
Date Climbed	09/02/2023
Author	HikerGuy

13656 - Gully/Couloir from Lily Lake
Date: 9/2/23 Trailhead: Upper Huerfano/Lily Lake Difficulty: Class 3 (mostly 2) Distance: 11.3 miles* Elevation: 5,159 feet* Duration: 8h 40m* with Huerfanito add-on I have not seen any reports of ascending the north facing gully/couloir above Lily Lake for this updated bicentennial (summit moved after lidar analysis), so I thought I would add some photos from my hike in early September. I really wanted to hike this in early summer as a couloir climb, but that did not happen. Having ascended 13,577 last time, I ruled out that approach, too tedious. I had already determined that I did not want to ascend to the saddle between the old summit and new summit (I was happy with this decision after descending that way). So even though it was melted out, I decided to give the gully/couloir a go! It was not that bad. The remaining snow had me a bit concerned as I ascended, but I was able to skirt along climber's right next to the rock. There were a couple of sections of easier scrambling on larger rocks/slabs, but it was mostly talus. After descending the loose mess from the saddle, I was very happy with my choice to ascend the gully. For the descent I would choose the saddle over going back down the gully. The gully steepness combined with some looseness is less attractive. It made for a nice tour of the updated bicentennial, 13,656. After getting back to Lily Lake, I made my way over to Huerfanito which I had orphaned earlier. A pretty good combo with a nice weather day. PHOTO TOUR* This was my fifth trip into this basin and it is still one of the best views in Colorado. After making my way around and above Lily Lake it's time to get down to business. Doesn't look too bad. Making my way up and starting to get a little concerned about the remaining snow. I did not bring any traction. A little less loose next to the snow. And it was melted away enough to allow me to skirt along the rocks. Above the snow remnant. Looking down from the top of the gully. That was not bad, but I'm not going back down that way. Easy ridge to the summit from the top of the gully. Blanca, Ellingwood and Little Bear providing a scenic backdrop. Looking down on the lakes from atop the summit. View of the Blanca Massif from the summit. Summit ridge with Lily Lake below. Looking over at 13,577 and 13,654 (old high point) from the summit. View of Huerfanito (up next) with Lindsey and Huerfano in the background. Summit pano. Almost down to the saddle between new and old high points. Looking back up at the miserable loose mess below the saddle. Not bad going down, but up? Yuck. Unnamed lake above Lily Lake. Unnamed lake above Lily Lake. Spotted many big trout up here. Good view of the ascent gully/couloir. Good view of the ascent gully/couloir. Almost back down to Lily Lake. Lily Lake. Lily Lake pano. My GPS Tracks on Google Maps (made from a .GPX file upload): Login required to view this map... Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

13656 - Gully/Couloir from Lily Lake

Date: 9/2/23
Trailhead: Upper Huerfano/Lily Lake
Difficulty: Class 3 (mostly 2)
Distance: 11.3 miles*
Elevation: 5,159 feet*
Duration: 8h 40m*
*with Huerfanito add-on

I have not seen any reports of ascending the north facing gully/couloir above Lily Lake for this updated bicentennial (summit moved after lidar analysis), so I thought I would add some photos from my hike in early September. I really wanted to hike this in early summer as a couloir climb, but that did not happen. Having ascended 13,577 last time, I ruled out that approach, too tedious. I had already determined that I did not want to ascend to the saddle between the old summit and new summit (I was happy with this decision after descending that way). So even though it was melted out, I decided to give the gully/couloir a go!

It was not that bad. The remaining snow had me a bit concerned as I ascended, but I was able to skirt along climber's right next to the rock. There were a couple of sections of easier scrambling on larger rocks/slabs, but it was mostly talus. After descending the loose mess from the saddle, I was very happy with my choice to ascend the gully. For the descent I would choose the saddle over going back down the gully. The gully steepness combined with some looseness is less attractive. It made for a nice tour of the updated bicentennial, 13,656.

After getting back to Lily Lake, I made my way over to Huerfanito which I had orphaned earlier. A pretty good combo with a nice weather day.

PHOTO TOUR

22469_01

This was my fifth trip into this basin and it is still one of the best views in Colorado.

22469_02

After making my way around and above Lily Lake it's time to get down to business. Doesn't look too bad.

22469_03

Making my way up and starting to get a little concerned about the remaining snow. I did not bring any traction.

22469_04

A little less loose next to the snow.

22469_05

And it was melted away enough to allow me to skirt along the rocks.

22469_06

Above the snow remnant.

22469_07

Looking down from the top of the gully. That was not bad, but I'm not going back down that way.

22469_08

Easy ridge to the summit from the top of the gully.

22469_09

Blanca, Ellingwood and Little Bear providing a scenic backdrop.

22469_10

Looking down on the lakes from atop the summit.

22469_11

View of the Blanca Massif from the summit.

22469_12

Summit ridge with Lily Lake below.

22469_13

Looking over at 13,577 and 13,654 (old high point) from the summit.

22469_14

View of Huerfanito (up next) with Lindsey and Huerfano in the background.

22469_15

Summit pano.

22469_16

Almost down to the saddle between new and old high points.

22469_17

Looking back up at the miserable loose mess below the saddle. Not bad going down, but up? Yuck.

22469_18

Unnamed lake above Lily Lake.

22469_19

Unnamed lake above Lily Lake. Spotted many big trout up here.

22469_20

Good view of the ascent gully/couloir.

22469_21

Good view of the ascent gully/couloir.

22469_22

Almost back down to Lily Lake.

22469_23

Lily Lake.

22469_24

Lily Lake pano.

My GPS Tracks on Google Maps (made from a .GPX file upload):

Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Comments or Questions

Jay521	Wow! 1/3/2024 10:06am Great pictures!!! I love that area.
bmcqueen	Thanks! 1/4/2024 5:08am Appreciate the beta. I need to go redo this one with the summit moved. Nice job and great pics!
d_baker	Same 1/4/2024 6:08am I need this summit as well, and I remember seeing that gully the last time while going up from Lily. I would probably try with snow but knowing it goes well enough without snow can be my backup plan! Thanks for posting.
Tim A	Very useful 1/15/2024 7:30pm Thanks for posting this, that gully definitely looks like the way to go to bag this post-Lidar point. It looked much steeper from across the bowl. Same with Darin, I'll probably wait to grab it with full snow coverage.

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