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Report Type |
Mini |
Peak(s) |
Capitol Peak - 14,138 feet
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Date Posted |
07/21/2024 |
Modified |
08/21/2024 |
Date Climbed |
07/11/2024 |
Author |
kebott |
Capitol Peak - Std Up and Ridge Direct down |
I did Capitol as 14er #56 on July 11, 2024. We took the Capitol Ditch trail (standard) and the first 6 miles were incredibly smooth, arguably the easiest 6 miles on any 14er hike that I can recall. Took a short detour to see the lake then hammered up the Daly Saddle. While steep, I enjoyed the switchbacks and there were a couple flatter ones in there. Once at the saddle, we took dropped down/around and took the standard route. Had to cross some snowpatches and the footprints were helpful, they just slogged up talus to K2 and went up and over. The downclimb from K2 wasn't too bad, just one steeper step you had to take your time on on the angled slabby rock.
Once on the ridge, I thought things were pretty tame all the way to the summit. The knife edge (and several smaller knife edges) were all stable rock, and if you positioned your body on the correct side, there wasn't really any exposure, as there were many ledges and steps below you that would prevent a major fall. Once you passed by the notch (why is there a rap sling here?) the route was very well cairned as you went across ledges and up gullies to the summit. I popped out on the summit ridge too early but then just stuck on the ridge to the summit and it was more fun. It reminded me very much of Snowmass near the end, but even easier in my opinion.
On the way back, we decided to take the ridge direct from K2 to Daly, and it was a lot of fun! and fairly straightforward imo. We also skirted left around K2 rather than going up and over. Probably easier to just go up and over to be honest, but it added a new twist.
For footage of all this to help you with the beta, see my video: https://youtu.be/7z9AZbxk_sQ
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