OK long time coming - as I once was just randomly exploring this area and hit up bethel circa 2011.

and have had Citadel in my dreams for forever obviously. Why people seem more into that Herman's Head Gulch approach though? Beyond me. This is a direct flight to the Gods! Why have a layover?

I have been ever so slowly inching up my early season snow action for those following and this actually added to that arc immensely. Probably one of the more intense i taken in colorado like evers if you wanna be real.

But also never beyond something I wasn't capable of handling. And I say that partially becuz when I was crossing that final little saddle before the formal Citadel walls hit you - I encountered these two people coming the other way. They were all geared up having taken the connecting ridge from Pettingel. And i was quizzing them on conditions becuz I was obvioiusly wanting to be up on what was up and what they were seeing.

But they seemed to judge my casual attire and low gear count harshly - encouraged me to just retreat. that without ice axe may be dangerous and to 'yell for help'. (Me wearing shorts light hoodie, wooden walking stick and headphones)

Which obviously gave me pause. I knew there were gulches and approaches and all - but it seem awfully snowy.

But I have seen some shit it turns out and all offered was well within my wheelhouse. Not to say simple either. The exposure on that final section to reach the summit is itself the real headline. and not anything i captured too well in photos either.

Chutes and Ladders

But so I actually tried everything after hearing those two - I tried the 'dry chute' in yellow at far right there first. but found it had 'eject-o' surfaces. (I realized I have been using this as a technical term now forever and i wonder if there is a real name for it? Eject-o = angled back at you so you cannot get handhold or stand on it right)

But i was able to scramble up the red chute next door. but realized like 2/3rd up that i would really not want to go back down that way. that's not a good feeling either. but i knew there were multiple routes so I wasn't losing it just yet.

and it turns out there were two other viable routes - the 'dirty' blue route which has seen lots of feet already it seems and the one i eventually used to get down the purple on the far left. that one was nice because i danced my way down as far as i could on solid ground until i had to commit to the chute.

The whole area is a rather steep slope. But I guess even by mid June the av danger low enough to not worry about scene like this?