Longs Peak Trip Report 06/18/2007

Report Type	Mini
Peak(s)	Longs Peak - 14,259 feet
Date Posted	06/18/2007
Modified	07/12/2007
Date Climbed	06/16/2007
Author	Andy

Notch Couloir
Video and photos: http://www.andyintherockies.com/trip/65/Longs_Peak_Notch_Couloir.htm The snow was a little soft in places, but overall it was pretty nice. There were a couple of short rotten ice sections, but nothing too bad. Everybody in our party climbed with one axe and one tool and that turned out to be perfect. We were able to find the direct "Staircase" finish, which was a nice way to finish the route instead of having to descend down to Keplingers and the Home Stretch. This trip set my record for earliest departure from home (11:45pm the night before), earliest time to hit the trail (1:15am), and longest car-to-car time (18 hrs). Needless to say, it kicked my ass.

Notch Couloir

Video and photos: http://www.andyintherockies.com/trip/65/Longs_Peak_Notch_Couloir.htm

The snow was a little soft in places, but overall it was pretty nice. There were a couple of short rotten ice sections, but nothing too bad. Everybody in our party climbed with one axe and one tool and that turned out to be perfect. We were able to find the direct "Staircase" finish, which was a nice way to finish the route instead of having to descend down to Keplingers and the Home Stretch.

This trip set my record for earliest departure from home (11:45pm the night before), earliest time to hit the trail (1:15am), and longest car-to-car time (18 hrs). Needless to say, it kicked my ass.

Comments or Questions

Barn	Excellent video! 6/19/2007 6:00pm What did you shoot it with? Some fine moments there.
Hogleg 1	Very Nice!!! 6/22/2007 2:08am Awesome Video and I love the pics of the traverse!
Kiefer	sweet! 11/30/2010 5:28pm Wow, Andy! these pictures are fantastic! Did you guys leave the crampons on for the rock or was the snow gone from the higher pitches? I love the third picture! Keep doing these 15-18 hour days and you'll be turning 24 hour days like they were routine! :D
Andy	The Staircase 11/30/2010 5:28pm We took the crampons off for the last bit. Once we reached The Notch that was the end of the snow (at least until the descent). We actually all brought rock shoes, which came in handy. In order to get to the base of The Staircase there was a bit of a delicate slab traverse (see the video). This was trivial in climbing shoes, but was pretty intimidating in mountaineering boots (at least for me). I free soloed 80% of The Staircase until I hit another delicate series of slabby moves with an awkward undercling flake for hands. I didn't have the courage to do that unroped with wet and muddy climbing shoes so Fabio climbed up the pitch with the rope and we set up a little anchor to protect those two or three moves. If The Staircase was dry it would have been an easy free solo (with rock shoes), but it was really wet and slick with running water. From the top of The Staircase it was just a 3rd class scamper to the summit. All this is relative though - we met a dude at Chasm Lake who free soloed the whole thing ahead of us in mountaineering boots (I saw his boot prints in The Staircase) so it all depends on how good you are. We suck in the grand scheme of things. :wink:
Andy	Video Camera 11/30/2010 5:28pm Thanks. I used a Panasonic PV-GS150. I don't believe they make this one anymore. Michael has some sort of Sony.
Yog	How sweet it is! 11/30/2010 5:28pm Man, you're videos rock! I was wondering what Notch looked like further up while on Keiners this weekend...thanks for satisfying my curiosity! Hard to find the bolts on the cables route coming down?
summitseeker	Video Rocks 2/5/2011 12:22am Sweet video- thanks!

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