OTHER Trip Report 07/21/2009

Report Type	Full
Peak(s)	Denali - 20320
Date Posted	07/21/2009
Date Climbed	07/04/2009
Author	Nelson

Denali. West Buttress
Denali trip report: I wrote this for another website but I include it here as I know that many 14er climbers have this as an objective. On June 21st, 2009 I boarded the plane from Salt Lake to Anchorage full of excitement and expectation. The Alpine Ascents groups had had very mixed results this year due to weather. The first four groups had failed in very rough weather but groups 5 through 7 had been successful and it seemed things were turning around. I had been in Colorado for a month and climbed 12 14ers. I felt fit, acclimatized, and ready for the test that Denali, perhaps the physically most demanding mountain in the world, would set me. When I hooked up with the shuttle I met my team mates for the first time. As we drove the 2 hours to Talkeetna we got to know each other for the first time: Barbara , is a postal worker from Arcata, Ca. As a letter carrier she is quite fit and had climbed Aconcagua amongst other things. She had just come from Mt. Baker and was very prepared for the trip. Ken , is an absolutely delightful , archetypical Kiwi and a Professor at the University of Minnesota. Ken was to be my tent mate for the next two weeks and I daresay we both enjoyed the hours of conversation immensely. Ken is also very fit and experienced and very quick to get moving in the morning. He is absolutely unselfish in doing more than his share of the group work and put the rest of us to shame a few times. Glen is a businessman from LA and an avid surfer. All I can say is "Glen, we hardly knew ye". (More later). And, of course, me. With regard to mountaineering I will paraphrase Winston Churchill and say that " I am a modest man with much to be modest about". At dinner we met our guides Alex and John . Both were very fit, very strong young men. Both had considerable experience and remarkable skill sets for their age. On the 22nd we took all our gear to the Alpine hangar for an equipment inspection . From there we went to Talkeetna for a great Pizza and then boarded our bush plane to fly to Kahiltna Glacier at 3 pm. We landed at 7,470 feet, unloaded and watched our plane take off. And then it began to snow. We got the tents up and our guides started dinner. We were all excited and didn't mind the snow or a little cold. It was our first night out on the mountain. We slept late and when we awoke we were greeted with hot coffee from the guides and about a foot of new snow. And it was cold. We spent the day reviewing glacier travel and crevass rescue skills. It continued to snow. Alex thought that the traveling would be safer in the cold of the night as the bridges would be firm so we awoke at 1 am and took off about 4 am on the 24th. We left a cache at about 7200 ft. and headed to the 7,800 camp at the bottom of Ski Hill. At 7,500 ft it was snowing so hard and the visibility was so bad that we decided to make camp there. Since our plane had landed there had been no planes in or out. We ate and went to bed early with the intention of staying on the night schedule. When we awoke Glen dropped the first surprise bomb of the trip. He was going back to LA to surf. He had had enough fun for one expedition and was out of here. I have to say it was very cold and very stormy but the storm seemed to be breaking up. No, he had made up his mind. Because there were no Alpine groups coming down we had to walk him all the way back to the airplane pick up point. At this point the skies were quite clear and he was able to get out immediately. We picked up our cache on the way back to camp and at the end of the day had walked about 14 miles. On the 26th we were up at 1 am. As the clouds had disappeared, the temperatures plummeted. We carried to our next camp at 10,060 feet. We had wanted to go to the 11,000 ft. camp but travel was slow with the new snow. There were the classic lenticulars on Fouraker and North Denali. On the 27th we moved completely to our camp 2 and set up the tents. The clouds were back and it was warm and windy. Visibility dropped to zero. At the 10,000 ft. camp we left a cache which included the underwear and socks I had had on for the first 4 days. The 28th was our breakthrough day. We pushed all the way past Windy Corner to 13,500 to cache a large amount of equipment and return to camp 2. We broke trail the whole way which was very difficult with all the new snow. This was our first go at Motorcycle Hill, a feature which was to torment us the entire trip. We went around Windy corner for the first time and got our first look at the upper mountain. We had had three days of 3000 feet climbing a day and the last day was 3750. For the first time we began to feel we were making real progress. We were clearly moving faster that the other groups and were well ahead of schedule. I was coming to realize that the trick on Denali was to get high enough on the mountain so that when you got these little weather breaks you can do something about it. For the first time, I began to feel we had a real chance . I have to digress a little bit here for a couple of anecdotes. Groups 8 and 9 had failed because of weather and we saw group 9 on the way down as they passed our Camp 2. There was also another Alpine group on the mountain, Dmitri and the Russians, who were determined to summit in 6 days. Ken and Alex thought this would have been a great name for a rock band. On the 29th we pushed all the way to the 14,200 ft advanced Base Camp and settled in. This is a more established camp that all groups use. There is a ranger station here and established toilets. As we moved in the day time it was very warm and Ken was slammed by the heat. When we awoke on the 30th Ken was much better but Barbara was having symptoms of AMS particularly peripheral edema which was to haunt her until we were back at our 10,000 ft. camp a week later.. We had an easy day just walking down to recover our cache at 13,500. We were very happy to see that Vern Tejas' team X had summitted and was on the way down. On the 1st Barbara was still feeling bad so we kicked back in the morning but when she started to feel better in the afternoon we headed up the fixed lines to 16,200 where we left a cache and returned to 14,200 camp this was done at 5pm in the afternoon. We were finally high on the mountain. I should mention that for the last 3 days the temperatures had been brutally cold but warmed up nicely in the daytime. On the 2nd we made our final permanent push to High Camp at 17,200. We arrived at 10 pm and set up our home for the next three nights. We moved with big packs (50 lbs.) over steep, rough, exposed terrain. The ridge between our cache at 16,200 and high camp is beautiful but technically challenging and exposed. We had arrived. The third, perhaps the most beautiful day of the trip, we rested and prepared for our summit push on the fourth. Barbara had moved in with Ken and me so we would only have to carry one tent to high camp. It was a little cramped but much warmer. She was still suffering from her AMS symptoms but keen to go. Dmitri and the Russians were also there but one of the Russians was suffering from a bad back and they were considering going down. Team 11 was also there and on the same schedule as we. Jonathan , one of my Utah back country ski buddies, was guiding this group. We turned in at a normal time planning to get up about 8 am. As usual before a summit day, I hardly slept nor did Ken. At this time of year it is light 24 hours a day and I just stared at the ceiling and listened to the snow and wind hit the tent. Snow? Wind? Yes, the high pressure was breaking down. In the morning John and Alex talked it over and decided that we should have a go. If we were entering another storm cycle we would have to get out of high camp and probably would not get another chance. Team 11 left about 9:30 and we left about 10 am for the summit We caught them up quickly and took over trail breaking at 18,500. Dmitri and the Russians were right behind. The weather was unbelievable. It was warm (30 degrees) but the skies were more or less clear and there was no wind. We pushed hard because we didn't know how long this would last. We pushed across the Football field and headed up to the summit ridge. This is also exposed and a knife edge in places. At 5 pm on the 4th of July we arrived at the summit! We took a million pictures, hugged each other and cried. It was such a release after 11 days of continuous hard work. Jonathan's group 11 was ½ hour behind and Dmitri and the Russians ½ hour behind them. There were three Alpine Ascents groups on the summit at one time! As we headed down things started to change. The wind started to kick up and the temperatures started to drop. The clouds were coming in and we could hear the thunder from a storm at 14,000 camp below. We knew we had to move fast but Alp 11 kept calling us asking us to wait at Denali Pass. The radio transmission was poor so we didn't know what was going on . Were they in trouble? Had the bad back of the Russian caught up with him? Our rope team waited at Denali pass for a few minutes when they called again to say everything was ok and that we could go on. As we rounded the corner to get on the Autobahn (the final 1,200 ft to High Camp) we saw that Alex and Barbara were in trouble. Just after unclipping from a picket Barbara had fallen and gone the whole length of the rope. She seemed to be unhurt but had lost a crampon. Alex descended to help her and got her back on the Autobahn. The snow was now falling heavily making the steep slope very slick and the visibility was back to zero. Barbara is a tough cookie but she was clearly shaken by the fall. This spot is the scene of many accidents over the years and we were lucky to get off lightly. A few minutes later I heard Jonathan shout "falling" and I dug my ax in as hard as I could just before I felt the tug on my rope. Ken had fallen but, fortunately, right before he reached the picket. This made it the equivalent of a top roping fall of just a few feet. No harm done but we knew we were in a serious situation. To make matters worse the electrical activity from 14,200 camp was moving up the mountain. As we got close to 17,200 camp all of Alex's metal things started to buzz. This a clear precursor to lightning and he dumped it all immediately. We were back in camp in a few minutes more and I could see that quite a bit of snow had fallen so I got a shovel and began to clean both tents. I was absolutely stoked with the excitement of the day and didn't feel the least bit fatigued. Alex said "Nelson, get in the tent" I felt a little miffed and remember thinking as I crawled in the tent that I could easily have cleaned both tents. The next thing I remember was Ken waking me for dinner a couple of hours later. I had fallen asleep with boots, harness, all my clothes hat and goggles on. We had been going hard for just under 10 hours. What a day! We thought the trip down on the 5th would be a cruise but were soon to realize that it would not be so easy. The wind was blowing harder and the ridge was scoured. Barbara fell almost immediately and after that moved at a very measured pace. The descent to the 16,200 pass went much slower and we were exposed to the wind for considerably longer than we had hoped. When we started to descend the fixed lines we found them covered by the snow of the preceding storm. The snow was wet and heavy and jammed the Jumars and glopped up horribly on the crampons. I had balls of snow on my feet that were as big as my boots. This meant a lot of slipping and sliding. When we got to 14,200 camp we ate, loaded the sleds and headed down. Things went well till just above Windy corner when one of the sleds started to have a mind of it's own and began to role over continuously.. We wrestled with this for 1500 ft. well on to Motorcycle hill. Finally we tied it on top of the other two sleds and pulled the whole thing to 10,000 ft camp. Here we dug up our cache from 10 days before and I put the underwear I had left there back on. It was the cleanest thing I had! This sled solution worked very well on the 6th all the way down ski hill the next day . We then went back to single sleds and worked our way to the bottom Heart Break Hill, our last test. At this point things warmed up quickly and the glacier became a nightmare. We had to make a big detour to find a safe access to Heartbreak Hill. Even this was difficult as both John and Barbara broke through snow bridges and into crevasses. Fortunately there were no major problems for them getting out other than minor equipment loss. The travel was very slow and we didn't get to the landing strip until 5:30 pm. Alex said he didn't know when the plane would come so as a well trained mountaineer, I put all my down clothes on. As we were getting the equipment ready John and the others arrived to inform us that the plane would be there in 5 minutes. We scrambled to sort everything, load the plane and get in. As we were taking off the pilot said to me "you know it's 90 degrees in Talkeetna. You might not need all that down." Needless to say that as I got out of the plane I melted immediately. We transferred the equipment to our van and decided to head right for the best restaurant in town where we had a truly fantastic meal (and a beer, and a glass of wine, or was it two?). From there we went to the Fireweed Bed and Breakfast where I shaved and showered for an hour and a half. All in all this was the most intense, most strenuous mountaineering experience I have ever had. The weather on Denali, particularly the cold, is absolutely shocking. The amount of weight you have to move up the mountain is enormous. Our sleds at the start plus the backpack totaled 125 lbs. The length of the days were close to 10 hours on average. We had one rest day. And of course when you combine these things with the altitude (20,320 feet) the physical strain is enormous. To offset this were two spectacular guides who worked twice as hard as we did to get us up the mountain. In addition the three of us got on spectacularly well and supported each other well. On a trip like this there is plenty of time to have good days and bad days. When the others pick up the slack unselfishly when you're having a hard day the whole thing goes much easier. Would I go back to Denali? Hell no! But as they say, you need two things to be a good mountaineer: 1) A strong sense of commitment. 2) A bad memory. Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Denali. West Buttress

Denali trip report: I wrote this for another website but I include it here as I know that many 14er climbers have this as an objective.

On June 21st, 2009 I boarded the plane from Salt Lake to Anchorage full of excitement and expectation. The Alpine Ascents groups had had very mixed results this year due to weather. The first four groups had failed in very rough weather but groups 5 through 7 had been successful and it seemed things were turning around. I had been in Colorado for a month and climbed 12 14ers. I felt fit, acclimatized, and ready for the test that Denali, perhaps the physically most demanding mountain in the world, would set me.

When I hooked up with the shuttle I met my team mates for the first time. As we drove the 2 hours to Talkeetna we got to know each other for the first time:

Barbara , is a postal worker from Arcata, Ca. As a letter carrier she is quite fit and had climbed Aconcagua amongst other things. She had just come from Mt. Baker and was very prepared for the trip.

Ken , is an absolutely delightful , archetypical Kiwi and a Professor at the University of Minnesota. Ken was to be my tent mate for the next two weeks and I daresay we both enjoyed the hours of conversation immensely. Ken is also very fit and experienced and very quick to get moving in the morning. He is absolutely unselfish in doing more than his share of the group work and put the rest of us to shame a few times.

Glen is a businessman from LA and an avid surfer. All I can say is "Glen, we hardly knew ye". (More later).

And, of course, me. With regard to mountaineering I will paraphrase Winston Churchill and say that " I am a modest man with much to be modest about".

At dinner we met our guides Alex and John . Both were very fit, very strong young men. Both had considerable experience and remarkable skill sets for their age.
On the 22nd we took all our gear to the Alpine hangar for an equipment inspection . From there we went to Talkeetna for a great Pizza and then boarded our bush plane to fly to Kahiltna Glacier at 3 pm.

We landed at 7,470 feet, unloaded and watched our plane take off.

And then it began to snow. We got the tents up and our guides started dinner. We were all excited and didn't mind the snow or a little cold. It was our first night out on the mountain. We slept late and when we awoke we were greeted with hot coffee from the guides and about a foot of new snow. And it was cold. We spent the day reviewing glacier travel and crevass rescue skills. It continued to snow. Alex thought that the traveling would be safer in the cold of the night as the bridges would be firm so we awoke at 1 am and took off about 4 am on the 24th. We left a cache at about 7200 ft. and headed to the 7,800 camp at the bottom of Ski Hill. At 7,500 ft it was snowing so hard and the visibility was so bad that we decided to make camp there. Since our plane had landed there had been no planes in or out. We ate and went to bed early with the intention of staying on the night schedule. When we awoke Glen dropped the first surprise bomb of the trip. He was going back to LA to surf. He had had enough fun for one expedition and was out of here. I have to say it was very cold and very stormy but the storm seemed to be breaking up. No, he had made up his mind. Because there were no Alpine groups coming down we had to walk him all the way back to the airplane pick up point. At this point the skies were quite clear and he was able to get out immediately. We picked up our cache on the way back to camp and at the end of the day had walked about 14 miles.

On the 26th we were up at 1 am. As the clouds had disappeared, the temperatures plummeted. We carried to our next camp at 10,060 feet.

We had wanted to go to the 11,000 ft. camp but travel was slow with the new snow. There were the classic lenticulars on Fouraker and North Denali. On the 27th we moved completely to our camp 2 and set up the tents. The clouds were back and it was warm and windy. Visibility dropped to zero. At the 10,000 ft. camp we left a cache which included the underwear and socks I had had on for the first 4 days.

The 28th was our breakthrough day. We pushed all the way past Windy Corner to 13,500 to cache a large amount of equipment and return to camp 2.

We broke trail the whole way which was very difficult with all the new snow. This was our first go at Motorcycle Hill, a feature which was to torment us the entire trip. We went around Windy corner for the first time and got our first look at the upper mountain. We had had three days of 3000 feet climbing a day and the last day was 3750. For the first time we began to feel we were making real progress. We were clearly moving faster that the other groups and were well ahead of schedule. I was coming to realize that the trick on Denali was to get high enough on the mountain so that when you got these little weather breaks you can do something about it. For the first time, I began to feel we had a real chance .

I have to digress a little bit here for a couple of anecdotes. Groups 8 and 9 had failed because of weather and we saw group 9 on the way down as they passed our Camp 2. There was also another Alpine group on the mountain, Dmitri and the Russians, who were determined to summit in 6 days. Ken and Alex thought this would have been a great name for a rock band.

On the 29th we pushed all the way to the 14,200 ft advanced Base Camp and settled in.

This is a more established camp that all groups use. There is a ranger station here and established toilets. As we moved in the day time it was very warm and Ken was slammed by the heat. When we awoke on the 30th Ken was much better but Barbara was having symptoms of AMS particularly peripheral edema which was to haunt her until we were back at our 10,000 ft. camp a week later.. We had an easy day just walking down to recover our cache at 13,500. We were very happy to see that Vern Tejas' team X had summitted and was on the way down.

On the 1st Barbara was still feeling bad so we kicked back in the morning but when she started to feel better in the afternoon we headed up the fixed lines to 16,200 where we left a cache and returned to 14,200 camp this was done at 5pm in the afternoon.

We were finally high on the mountain.

I should mention that for the last 3 days the temperatures had been brutally cold but warmed up nicely in the daytime.

On the 2nd we made our final permanent push to High Camp at 17,200.

We arrived at 10 pm and set up our home for the next three nights. We moved with big packs (50 lbs.) over steep, rough, exposed terrain.

The ridge between our cache at 16,200 and high camp is beautiful but technically challenging and exposed.

We had arrived.

The third, perhaps the most beautiful day of the trip, we rested and prepared for our summit push on the fourth. Barbara had moved in with Ken and me so we would only have to carry one tent to high camp. It was a little cramped but much warmer. She was still suffering from her AMS symptoms but keen to go. Dmitri and the Russians were also there but one of the Russians was suffering from a bad back and they were considering going down. Team 11 was also there and on the same schedule as we. Jonathan , one of my Utah back country ski buddies, was guiding this group.

We turned in at a normal time planning to get up about 8 am. As usual before a summit day, I hardly slept nor did Ken. At this time of year it is light 24 hours a day and I just stared at the ceiling and listened to the snow and wind hit the tent. Snow? Wind? Yes, the high pressure was breaking down. In the morning John and Alex talked it over and decided that we should have a go. If we were entering another storm cycle we would have to get out of high camp and probably would not get another chance. Team 11 left about 9:30 and we left about 10 am for the summit We caught them up quickly and took over trail breaking at 18,500.

Dmitri and the Russians were right behind. The weather was unbelievable. It was warm (30 degrees) but the skies were more or less clear and there was no wind. We pushed hard because we didn't know how long this would last. We pushed across the Football field and headed up to the summit ridge. This is also exposed and a knife edge in places. At 5 pm on the 4th of July we arrived at the summit!

We took a million pictures, hugged each other and cried.

It was such a release after 11 days of continuous hard work. Jonathan's group 11 was ½ hour behind and Dmitri and the Russians ½ hour behind them.

There were three Alpine Ascents groups on the summit at one time!

As we headed down things started to change. The wind started to kick up and the temperatures started to drop. The clouds were coming in and we could hear the thunder from a storm at 14,000 camp below. We knew we had to move fast but Alp 11 kept calling us asking us to wait at Denali Pass. The radio transmission was poor so we didn't know what was going on . Were they in trouble? Had the bad back of the Russian caught up with him? Our rope team waited at Denali pass for a few minutes when they called again to say everything was ok and that we could go on. As we rounded the corner to get on the Autobahn (the final 1,200 ft to High Camp) we saw that Alex and Barbara were in trouble. Just after unclipping from a picket Barbara had fallen and gone the whole length of the rope. She seemed to be unhurt but had lost a crampon. Alex descended to help her and got her back on the Autobahn. The snow was now falling heavily making the steep slope very slick and the visibility was back to zero. Barbara is a tough cookie but she was clearly shaken by the fall. This spot is the scene of many accidents over the years and we were lucky to get off lightly. A few minutes later I heard Jonathan shout "falling" and I dug my ax in as hard as I could just before I felt the tug on my rope. Ken had fallen but, fortunately, right before he reached the picket. This made it the equivalent of a top roping fall of just a few feet. No harm done but we knew we were in a serious situation. To make matters worse the electrical activity from 14,200 camp was moving up the mountain. As we got close to 17,200 camp all of Alex's metal things started to buzz. This a clear precursor to lightning and he dumped it all immediately.

We were back in camp in a few minutes more and I could see that quite a bit of snow had fallen so I got a shovel and began to clean both tents. I was absolutely stoked with the excitement of the day and didn't feel the least bit fatigued. Alex said "Nelson, get in the tent" I felt a little miffed and remember thinking as I crawled in the tent that I could easily have cleaned both tents. The next thing I remember was Ken waking me for dinner a couple of hours later. I had fallen asleep with boots, harness, all my clothes hat and goggles on. We had been going hard for just under 10 hours. What a day!

We thought the trip down on the 5th would be a cruise but were soon to realize that it would not be so easy. The wind was blowing harder and the ridge was scoured. Barbara fell almost immediately and after that moved at a very measured pace. The descent to the 16,200 pass went much slower and we were exposed to the wind for considerably longer than we had hoped. When we started to descend the fixed lines we found them covered by the snow of the preceding storm. The snow was wet and heavy and jammed the Jumars and glopped up horribly on the crampons. I had balls of snow on my feet that were as big as my boots. This meant a lot of slipping and sliding. When we got to 14,200 camp we ate, loaded the sleds and headed down. Things went well till just above Windy corner when one of the sleds started to have a mind of it's own and began to role over continuously.. We wrestled with this for 1500 ft. well on to Motorcycle hill. Finally we tied it on top of the other two sleds and pulled the whole thing to 10,000 ft camp. Here we dug up our cache from 10 days before and I put the underwear I had left there back on. It was the cleanest thing I had!

This sled solution worked very well on the 6th all the way down ski hill the next day . We then went back to single sleds and worked our way to the bottom Heart Break Hill, our last test. At this point things warmed up quickly and the glacier became a nightmare. We had to make a big detour to find a safe access to Heartbreak Hill. Even this was difficult as both John and Barbara broke through snow bridges and into crevasses. Fortunately there were no major problems for them getting out other than minor equipment loss. The travel was very slow and we didn't get to the landing strip until 5:30 pm. Alex said he didn't know when the plane would come so as a well trained mountaineer, I put all my down clothes on. As we were getting the equipment ready John and the others arrived to inform us that the plane would be there in 5 minutes. We scrambled to sort everything, load the plane and get in. As we were taking off the pilot said to me "you know it's 90 degrees in Talkeetna. You might not need all that down." Needless to say that as I got out of the plane I melted immediately. We transferred the equipment to our van and decided to head right for the best restaurant in town where we had a truly fantastic meal (and a beer, and a glass of wine, or was it two?). From there we went to the Fireweed Bed and Breakfast where I shaved and showered for an hour and a half.

All in all this was the most intense, most strenuous mountaineering experience I have ever had. The weather on Denali, particularly the cold, is absolutely shocking. The amount of weight you have to move up the mountain is enormous. Our sleds at the start plus the backpack totaled 125 lbs. The length of the days were close to 10 hours on average. We had one rest day. And of course when you combine these things with the altitude (20,320 feet) the physical strain is enormous. To offset this were two spectacular guides who worked twice as hard as we did to get us up the mountain. In addition the three of us got on spectacularly well and supported each other well. On a trip like this there is plenty of time to have good days and bad days. When the others pick up the slack unselfishly when you're having a hard day the whole thing goes much easier.

Would I go back to Denali? Hell no! But as they say, you need two things to be a good mountaineer:

1) A strong sense of commitment.

2) A bad memory.

Thumbnails for uploaded photos (click to open slideshow):

Comments or Questions

centrifuge	nice! 7/22/2009 12:47pm wonderful report, and I love the photos :D Congrats on reaching the summit
uwe	Wow! 7/22/2009 4:19pm Congratulations. Great TR. How satisfying it must have been to hit the summit, bringing together all that training, work, effort, risk and then having good weather. Fantastic. Did Glenn invite you guys out to CA for some surfing?
davebks	Thanks for sharing! 7/22/2009 7:00pm That was great!! Thanks for sharing :shock: :D
kaiman	Awesome! 7/22/2009 8:07pm Looks like you had a great climb. My dad was there in the summer of 1976 and did the Southeast Ridge route (76 days!). He has told me many stories about the trip over the years and especially about ”Windy Corner” :shock:
globreal	10, 10 hour days! 1/9/2011 11:03pm Having just done 11 hours yesterday on Elbert, I can't image 10 days in a row like that. I think I'll join you in saying, ”hell no!” I'll just enjoy Denali from here in my nice warm home. Great climb, great report, great photos, great story! Congratulations Nelson.
Nelson	Hi Brett 1/10/2011 12:18am Thanks, Brett. I'm glad to see someone isclimbing in Colorado. I'm spending the winter back country skiing (as usual). We have great snow but it is cold! Have a great New Year! Nelson

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