Mt Denali

[BrodyMac_99]

For anyone who has completed Denali how do you train for this summit. I plan to attempt it by 2025

[bmcqueen]

I built my training plans off of some of this guidance.

https://www.alpineascents.com/climbs/denali/training/

[desertdog]

Check out two sites Mountain Tactical and Uphill Athlete. Both are loaded with training info. MT is probably more applicable because it focuses a little more on strength training which you will need for the heavy loads on Denali.

[Kiefer]

I started out cardio and light weights three day a week. After a month or so, I moved to every other day and increased the cardio.
I lived & worked in Vail at the time, so at night when I got off work, my partner and I would skin up Vail Mountain to Mid-Vail ski down by headlamp.
In the beginning it took us about 2 hours to do it. The last week before we left for ANC, we were down to 45 minutes.
I also cut down on my weekly beer intake (from 66 pints per week to 47...just kidding!).

I also concentrated more on scrambling/hiking mountains. Don't bother too much on trying to sleep on any summits. By the time you leave Denver and arrive in Talkeetna, THEN get to a noticeable elevation on the glacier, you'll lose any benefit those mountain-top sleepovers would have imparted.
Focus on cardio. Strong arms, abs and back will benefit you of course, but it your legs and lungs that will carry you to the summit.

And lastly, DIAL IN your winter camping skills. You don't want to be "finding stuff out" while up there on the glacier when it's routinely 12 outside.
That will make for a rough couple weeks and not to mention, will probably cause some drama & stress with you and your mates.

[Hoot]

Camp high in Colorado in the winter. At least a few times.

[druid2112]

First, stop referring to it as Mt. Denali. Also, never visit an ATM machine or give your PIN number to anyone.

[XterraRob]

First, stop referring to it as Mt. Denali.

+1
Denali Peak is the proper reference.

[Bill G]

Denali Peak is 100% WRONG!

The proper references are either Mount McKinley or Denali.

[hotrod]

And don't say PIN number! It is a pin, meaning personal id number. Pin number says personal id number number.

[dubsho3000]

A friend of mine used Kelso Ridge on Torreys as his training ground. Climbed it several times in winter, at least one time with his team and winter camping gear. His story of setting up a tent and camping at ~14k' on a stormy night was harrowing, and seemed like excellent experience to take on to Denali. Low visibility, frozen fingers and toes, and all that good stuff.

[martinleroux]

First, stop referring to it as Mt. Denali. Also, never visit an ATM machine or give your PIN number to anyone.

The correct reference is of course the "South Churchill Peak". And never shine an LED light in someone's face.

Screenshot_20220913-150907.png

More seriously...

A friend of mine used Kelso Ridge on Torreys as his training ground. Climbed it several times in winter, at least one time with his team and winter camping gear.

This is an excellent training strategy. In the winter before our Denali trip we tried to climb as many 13ers and 14ers as we could manage, no matter how nasty the weather. Some of the peaks we did were Byers Peak, Bancroft, La Plata, Lincoln (in the teeth of an advancing cold front) and N Mt Massive (overnight trip). Obviously you need to be aware of avalanche risk. Dave Cooper's "Colorado Snow Climbs" book lists several other climbs that are generally safe in winter.

[BrodyMac_99]

First, stop referring to it as Mt. Denali.

+1
Denali Peak is the proper reference.

Didn’t know that. Thanks for the correction