Loft vs. Keyhole

[bucketlistiowa]

I wanted to start out by saying how amazing this site is! I recently joined, and after my initial posts (I was directed to this site as I was told it was THE place to ask for help and find answers), I have spent hours reading other forum posts, trip reports, and my favorite, the Thread Hall of Fame!).

I know that you can almost always find out answers to most of your questions by searching for your topic in the forum, reading trip reports, etc. What I also have been finding is that many of the more experienced climbers are more than happy to offer their personal opinion on a very specific situation. That being said, here is MY very specific situation:

I have found a fairly recent forum regarding this same question (Training for Longs Peak posted in June was the most recent). When the question was posed there, Loft vs. Keyhole?, it talked about snow being a factor in the decision. I plan on attempting my climb in late August/early September so I think snow (hopefully) will not be an issue. And I'm not trying either route on my own -- I'm going to be going with someone who has experience -- I know there are several mentions of how important route finding is for the Loft route so I won't have to have that be a decision making criteria either. So if we eliminate snow and route finding, many replies say if you think you can do the Keyhole, then you can do the Loft, and you will enjoy it more. Since I think I can do the Keyhole....

I am not scared about trying Class 3. But I'm wondering about that bit of Class 4 by the Loft gully that has been mentioned. How much is a "bit"? Do you think someone who hasn't even done Class 3 before this trip can handle the Class 4? I'm planning on doing a couple weeks of increasingly difficult routes that will include Class 3 and adding elevation & distance as well before I attempt Longs (you all helped me with some of those choices, thank you, btw!) so I'm going to have some practice under by belt by the time Longs comes around. As to my physical condition -- I'm an accountant who had an EXTREMELY long, busy past few months with tax season and sat at a computer for hours and hours on end . But these past few weeks I've been working with a personal trainer 4 days a week and working out a total of 6 out of 7 days (and will be continuing to do so for two more weeks before I leave August 20th). I've increased my strength and stamina by quite a bit already. I'm not going to pretend I am in excellent shape; however, I'm also not a couch potato. To climb this Class 4, do I have to have a lot of arm strength? My legs are really strong, my arms, not as much. I'm in my early 50's, female, 5'8".

Oh, one last question -- the TR for the Loft via East Longs Trailhead, posted by CAVUfool, says the total route is 13 miles. The TR for the Keyhole Standard Route, posted by Bill, says the total route is 14.5 miles. Is the Loft route really 1.5 miles shorter? That's a plus in my book if so

Thank you in advance for your responses!

[Sbenfield]

Keyhole

[spiderman]

If the 1.5 miles reduced shortness of the Loft is a factor that excites you, then it is not the right route. If done properly than it is not above Class 3. However it is easy to get slightly off, getting it into a range that you don't want to be in. There are few if anybody else going that way, reducing your safety margin if you have limited experience. My son and I loved doing the circuit of up the Loft and down the Keyhole (with Meeker as a bonus peak), but I would wait until you have more class 3-4 experience. From your questions you are obviously not ready for the Loft.

[bdloftin77]

When I did Longs, I hadn't done any class 3 before that. We took the Loft Route up, and the Keyhole Route down. If you do do the Loft Route, I'd suggest going up that, because it's pretty steep right before the saddle. It was very fun. I liked going up the Loft Route.. not crowded at all, an exciting addition to Longs. It was cool going way up it, then on the shoulder, then dropping down and around the back of Longs. There's probably some class 4 in the area, but when we went up, it was only class 3. Pretty steep, and some exposure, but not bad at all for me. Going down the back, you'll have to do a lot of class 3 rock scrambling. If you're an adventurous sort like me, who doesn't mind rock scrambling and some exposure (not a ton ton), then the Loft is fun. Taking the Keyhole down was good. It added variety to the climb. I do think the distances are decently accurate.. the Keyhole route is probably longer because it goes way around the other side of the mountain. (longer that way apparently). The Loft Route does have some more elevation gain since you have to drop a couple hundred feet behind the mountain, and regain it. It is also a bit harder than the Keyhole route I think. But I really enjoyed it. My two cents. Hope that helps some.

[SeattleHc100er]

The two conditions I recommend for doing the Loft as a first summit attempt of Longs have been met in your case. A) Experienced climbing partner , B) No ice or snow. I just climbed it a few weeks ago and there was only one snow patch that could be walked around on the ramp between Keps Couloir and the Homestretch. The "class 4" stuff is really just very brief parts where you'll have to use your arms to wedge between boulders while you drop your legs down. This occurs once or twice in a mildly exposed gully while downclimbing the Loft. But I've heard reports of people avoiding that gully ( and it's borderline class 4 stuff ) through various alternate routes ( which I'm not familiar with ). If you want to get an idea what you're in for, I took three videos of the Loft routes' different class 3 sections except for the homestretch. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mOVbAlARofA" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; , https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RLFqhYcOCJ8" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JsA2PMQhJj4" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;. But don't be fooled by the Keyhole's longer length. It will take longer to do the Loft because of the scrambling and route finding. But the Loft is a whole lot more fun!

[LoveThisSite]

In a perfect world, and assuming you're comfortable with Class 3, you may be ok on the Loft route. But we live in in imperfect world. If you descend the wrong gully on the backside, you can easily get cliffed out on class 4/class 5 terrain. The down climb gully is not easy to find. I personally have been up that route twice. The first time I was able to find the correct gully. The second time, I descended the wrong gully (got tired of searching for the right one), which added more vertical that I had to gain again in Keplingers. Longs is already a tough climb, and it doesn't sound like you have much prior mountaineering experience. I know you're going with an experienced partner, but you also need to look at your own experience first. There's a reason why the Loft route is not the "standard" route for Longs.

If you're seriously an adventure junkie, then go for it.

My suggestion is to stick to the Keyhole. You'll find plenty of company, which can be re-assuring in itself. Good luck!

[flyingmagpie]

Stick with the Keyhole. I have climbed Longs 16 times by 5 different routes. I have climbed both the Loft and Keyhole routes. I have done it as a circuit in which I've gone up one and come down the other. It's a blast. But you are from out of state, and you have limited experience. You can't go wrong with the Keyhole route--you have bull's eye route markers to follow, visible both directions. After you have done the Keyhole route, the next time you climb Longs you will enjoy the Loft route more. How "experienced" is your partner? Has he or she been up Longs before? By the Loft route? Listen. You're pushing your abilities already. Many people on this site don't even try Longs until they have a long list of other 14ers under their belts. Don't push your luck. There are so many factors involved in 14er climbing--weather, acclimatization, what you eat or drink during the climb, what clothing you bring, what 10 essentials you should be carrying, etc. etc. etc. Take some time to learn the ropes. Consider the possibility that you might not even be able to complete the Keyhole route succesfully, and don't be afraid to turn back if you are not feeling well, or if you are uncomfortable with the exposure. As Paul Simon once sang in a beautiful song: "You got to learn how to fall. . . . before you learn how to fly."

[martinleroux]

As of last Saturday the crux of either route was dealing with iced-up cracks and verglas on the climb up and down the Homestretch. That section was more challenging that anything lower down on the Loft.

[Grover]

Here is two more cents: I climbed Longs Peak on Saturday- ascended via the Loft Route, descended via the Keyhole Route. This was my 2nd visit to the summit of Longs Peak (2001 & 2014), 1st time using the Loft. I will agree with the other posts that suggest you summit Longs via the Keyhole Route. The Loft is a great route, but you will need Class 3 & Class 4 experience, as well as route finding experience to negotiate it. The Keyhole involves plenty of Class 3 climbing, but the red/yellow bullseyes will guide you along.

Here's my suggestion: Camp in the Boulder Field the night before, then summit via the Keyhole Route. After two visits to the summit of Longs Peak, I would only do it again, for a 3rd time, by camping in the Boulder Field.

[wondering_hough]

As of last Saturday the crux of either route was dealing with iced-up cracks and verglas on the climb up and down the Homestretch. That section was more challenging that anything lower down on the Loft.

+1. The downclimb of the homestretch is the sketchiest part of the keyhole. And I encountered zero rain, ice, or verglas when faced with this section in July.

[+101RouteHog+]

I hope you make/enjoy it and think you will if you make it past the Trough and Chockstone. I found this to be the cardio/altitude/conditioning crux. It's Bluebird from there! I admire your drive. Be safe.

[bucketlistiowa]

Thank you to everyone who took the time to reply! I'm so glad I asked for the forum's input - I might have easily felt I was ready for the Loft based on other forum posts, but I am going to be sensible and do the Keyhole for my first time. That verglas concerns me -- that will be enough of a wild card without adding more....

I have been corresponding with another 14er (from Iowa as well, I might add ) and he is going to be taking me up -- I'm pretty grateful for that! We are still working out the exact date but we are looking at the week after Labor Day.

I know there was some genuine concern expressed about tackling Longs at all (since it is my first 14er). I can assure you that I am taking this whole thing VERY seriously and researching and analyzing the facts prior to attempting the summit. If I don't make it this year, then so be it, I would rather wait and be safe than get all caught up in the thrill and wind up hurt or worse just to prove something.

You all rock, and thanks for sharing your experience and opinions and insights with this flatlander