Climb Rainier in 2017?

[kdenn]

I'm looking for Colorado locals who are interested in forming a small group to climb Rainier this summer 2017. Looking locally so we can do a couple training runs here in Colorado to see each others' level of experience. Also, if we meet ahead of time, the level of commitment is better. I attempted Rainier in 2008. My partner and I made it to Camp Muir, but the ranger suggested not to go further b/c of really bad weather and there were only two of us. I have plenty of climbing experience having climbed all 55 of Colorado's 14ers (many numerous times.) Have done several winter climbs using required equipment. Member of CO Mountain Club. Climbed Mt. Hood, St. Helen w/snow, six CA 14ers including four separate times up Whitney in one day (two on the mountaineer's route.) Am in the process of climbing CO centennials. Anyone interested or is there already a group started? I'm flexible on which month to climb Rainier. I prefer to do it with part of a day to Camp Muir, rest there a couple/few hours, then head to the summit that night.

Thanks,
Kevin

[jscully]

I was shooting to make a trip out there in September and am looking for a partner(s) to potentially go with. Was also looking at guiding options but diddnt know if it was worth it or not. Fair amount of experience, hike and climb on a regular basis here in CO but havnt done any glacial traveling. Hoping to cut my teeth with that on Rainer.

[seano]

I was shooting to make a trip out there in September and am looking for a partner(s) to potentially go with. Was also looking at guiding options but diddnt know if it was worth it or not. Fair amount of experience, hike and climb on a regular basis here in CO but havnt done any glacial traveling. Hoping to cut my teeth with that on Rainer.

It depends upon what you're trying to accomplish. Getting up and down one of Rainier's standard routes is a matter of following the beaten path and not stepping in the obvious holes. If you know how to walk with crampons and self-arrest, you'll be fine. Glacier travel off the beaten path is a different game; it's not necessary for Rainier, but it's different from what you've done in CO.

[Scott P]

If you know how to walk with crampons and self-arrest, you'll be fine. Glacier travel off the beaten path is a different game; it's not necessary for Rainier, but it's different from what you've done in CO.

Usually this is the case, but I'd highly recommend having crevasse rescue gear along too, and the knowledge of how to use it, even on the standard routes. Although thousands of people do safely climb Mount Rainier every year, crevasse falls do happen, even on the standard routes. Luckily in summer, there are usually other groups around that can assist in a crevasse fall.

To sum it up, the chances of falling into a crevasse are rather small, but if it does happen, you had better have a plan of getting yourself or partner out.

Here is a pretty good article on climbing Mount Rainier:

http://www.summitpost.org/so-you-want-t ... ier/507227

[kdenn]

Hey Scully,

Any chance you can go to Rainier in July? Even though there are more people, the conditions are the best. More crevasses are opened up in September. Even August would be better, but July is optimal.

Thanks,
Kevin

[jscully]

I was shooting to make a trip out there in September and am looking for a partner(s) to potentially go with. Was also looking at guiding options but diddnt know if it was worth it or not. Fair amount of experience, hike and climb on a regular basis here in CO but havnt done any glacial traveling. Hoping to cut my teeth with that on Rainer.

It depends upon what you're trying to accomplish. Getting up and down one of Rainier's standard routes is a matter of following the beaten path and not stepping in the obvious holes. If you know how to walk with crampons and self-arrest, you'll be fine. Glacier travel off the beaten path is a different game; it's not necessary for Rainier, but it's different from what you've done in CO.

Im comfortable with winter travel using crampons and an ice. Havnt needed to self arrest before, but know how. Totally understand its a much different experience than any CO mtns have to offer.

Kevin,

Thats what Ive heard from others too about the crevasses. The schedule is pretty flexible and if July is the best time to go, I can make that happen

[tlongpine]

FYI - there's a complicated permit process for rope team glacier travel on Rainer. Even more complicated for solo climbers. Forms are available on the RNP/NPS site.

Rangers patrol departures from camp.

[Plumbean]

I climbed it this past August. The permit process is probably more of a pain than it is complicated. Had to be there in person to get a permit for Camp Muir and since it was in August we were worried about getting shut out, so I was up there when they opened in the morning. The rangers came around at Camp Muir and gave some beta about route conditions and basically tired to scare us to death, but they did not control who left camp from what I could see (although it would not surprise me if they stopped a party that did not have crevasse rescue gear).

We were on the DC route, so basically just a stair master with the possibility of a fall in a crevasse.

[claytid]

I climbed it this past August. The permit process is probably more of a pain than it is complicated. Had to be there in person to get a permit for Camp Muir and since it was in August we were worried about getting shut out, so I was up there when they opened in the morning.

Permit process in 2016 was a little weird as the result of the online res system crapping out early in the year. You'll need to fill out a res form online (process opens in March) and you'll need a climbing pass as well (req for moving above 10k feet)

[MarkSandusky]

Following - I've got my sights on Rainier in 2018, with my plan to train and gain experience in the meantime. I presumed that I should go with a guide (RMI) but have heard other feedback that this might not be necessary - I'd love to hear other points of view on this. Thanks
Mark

[claytid]

Following - I've got my sights on Rainier in 2018, with my plan to train and gain experience in the meantime. I presumed that I should go with a guide (RMI) but have heard other feedback that this might not be necessary - I'd love to hear other points of view on this. Thanks
Mark

Depending on your experience w/ glacier travel the absolute necessity of a guide ranges from "decent idea" to "absolutely necessary". Good thing about a guide is they'll do all of the permitting, run you through some arrest exercises on the glacier, teach you a thing or two about rescue, etc. Primary con is a rather robotic ascent up the hill (they take hundreds up the mountain and the only true goal is that everyone gets home alive...so there's no room for error from the guide's standpoint) NW Mountain School does a single, 5-day climb that is supposed to be spectacular. RMI and Alpine Ascents run very good 3 or 4 day programs as well so do some window shopping and pick an outfit that appeals to you. Whatever the case, be ready to choose early as these all fill right after the climbing season ends.

[sigepnader]

Following - I've got my sights on Rainier in 2018, with my plan to train and gain experience in the meantime. I presumed that I should go with a guide (RMI) but have heard other feedback that this might not be necessary - I'd love to hear other points of view on this. Thanks
Mark

Depending on your experience w/ glacier travel the absolute necessity of a guide ranges from "decent idea" to "absolutely necessary". Good thing about a guide is they'll do all of the permitting, run you through some arrest exercises on the glacier, teach you a thing or two about rescue, etc. Primary con is a rather robotic ascent up the hill (they take hundreds up the mountain and the only true goal is that everyone gets home alive...so there's no room for error from the guide's standpoint) NW Mountain School does a single, 5-day climb that is supposed to be spectacular. RMI and Alpine Ascents run very good 3 or 4 day programs as well so do some window shopping and pick an outfit that appeals to you. Whatever the case, be ready to choose early as these all fill right after the climbing season ends.

Adding on to this...RMI is totally booked for four day treks except for one in May.