Wind River Adventure Partners?

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Eli Boardman
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Wind River Adventure Partners?

Post by Eli Boardman »

Do you love the Winds? Do you like climbing obscure, beautiful peaks in remote valleys? Are you looking for a partner or an objective?

I've been looking through photos and thinking about places I saw on last summer's 26-day Wind River traverse, and I have some objectives in mind for this summer. There's no way I'll get to even half of them (one or two would be likely), but I wanted to see if anyone is planning a Winds adventure trip and is looking for another group member or might want to attempt one of these objectives with me. I might also decide to solo something. Basically, I'm just putting out feelers to see if anyone is interested in some harder, more obscure, adventure-oriented peak climbing in the Winds this summer. I know the Winds better than the back of my hand and by mid-summer should be capable of switching leads on <5.6ish multi-pitch rock. I'm confident I could do these objectives, but I am currently 16, so keep that in mind...

Here are some objectives I have in mind, in no particular order. All would require backpacking. I personally took all the pictures.

Mount Lander, high, remote, imposing 12er, from NF Little Wind. West gully (left line) definitely would go, but looks like a lot of loose and nasty stuff. Bonneys say west ridge (right line) goes at class 4, but they're notoriously incorrect. Other objectives in the area include Mount Roberts (high, class 2), South Twin Lion (Class 5.?), and Musembeah Peak (Class 4+). This area requires a Reservation permit (easily obtainable but costs money).

Image

Mount Helen, famous 13er that is on a Colorado state stamp, from Titcomb Basin via a gully to the north or south (south in picture). Class 2 rubble gully, glacier crossing and steepish couloir climb, class 4 summit ridge. I'm looking at doing the 35+ mile round-trip in 2 days, because the approach is all on a trail, so it would be easy to cruise in the evening.

Image

Mount Warren, tall, rarely climbed 13er, from Helen Glacier via Titcomb. Class 2 rubble pass to beautiful Helen Glacier (in picture foreground), then Class 4 to 5.solo couloir and ridge climb. If I extended the Helen trip to 2 or 3 nights, this would become the secondary objective. Who knows, I might be interested in the trifecta traverse (5.easy, Warren-->Doublet-->Dinwoody), or Sacagawea, or Jackson, or Ellingwood too.

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Mount Koven, difficult, rarely climbed 13er with approach along Divide 13ers. Both the south ridge and east face are listed by the Bonneys as 5.0, but of course that rating is quite suspect. The ridge looks like it would require at least 1 or more rappels on the ascent. If Koven proved too challenging, N Face Gannett would be one of many possible backups. It's unlikely that I'll make it to the Dinwoody region this summer, but if someone is interested, I might be able to plan for it.

Image

Bears Tooth, remote 12er, some line or another from the Downs Fork. The marked lines would be Class 5.adventure but appear broken and blocky while still being quite aesthetic (IMO). Walk-off to Divide or possible easier ascent route (4+) on N side from Shangri-La-esque valley. Lots of potential for new climbs in this very untraveled region.

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Spider Peak, dramatic 12er (from Bomber Lake--not pictured) via the easiest route (North Ridge, class 4). I would probably approach over Torrey Peak (class 4 downclimb). I will almost certainly be climbing this one this summer.

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I have friends and family members that may be climbing with me or backpacking the approach depending on the objective. Beyond the objectives listed above, I would be interested in any 13ers I haven't climbed yet or anything beautiful and remote. (I am not interested in the Cirque because of crowds...) Some areas I'm interested in but don't have pictures of include the Brown Cliffs and NF Grave Creek. I'm also aware of the possibility for some 5.easy FAs in the Ross Lakes region. If you're interested in adding another partner for some adventure peak climbing in the Winds or if you might want to attempt one of these objectives with me, let me know!
cschmidt1023
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Re: Wind River Adventure Partners?

Post by cschmidt1023 »

I'm jealous of your life if you're seriously 16. If you want to do any class 5 objectives in western / SW CO and would partner with a 28 y/o I could probably show you a few things about trad climbing.

As much as I would love to do some of these objectives you have posted I don't see it happening given that they are what 6-10 hours away?
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Eli Boardman
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Re: Wind River Adventure Partners?

Post by Eli Boardman »

cschmidt1023 wrote:I'm jealous of your life if you're seriously 16. If you want to do any class 5 objectives in western / SW CO and would partner with a 28 y/o I could probably show you a few things about trad climbing.

As much as I would love to do some of these objectives you have posted I don't see it happening given that they are what 6-10 hours away?
Heh, thanks. I'll send you a PM sometime soon about possibly practicing following trad.

Yeah, the Winds are a good haul from CO, I'm lucky with a family place on the northern edge of the range (hence why I know the area very well).
________

I know it's a long shot to get partners for these climbs, but I might bump this now and then in case someone is interested...
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Eli Boardman
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Re: Wind River Adventure Partners?

Post by Eli Boardman »

Bump...

Also, I'm interested in the standard route on Henderson Peak (several 5.easy leads). Maybe a 2-night, 3-day Titcomb trip:

1: Hike to high camp in Titcomb Basin
2: Climb Henderson
3: Climb Helen and hike out
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SoCool
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Re: Wind River Adventure Partners?

Post by SoCool »

We'll be expecting a trip report please!!! (But only if it's as good as your previous Wind River trip report.)
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Eli Boardman
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Re: Wind River Adventure Partners?

Post by Eli Boardman »

SoCool wrote:We'll be expecting a trip report please!!! (But only if it's as good as your previous Wind River trip report.)
For sure! I'm definitely planning on Spider and Helen, and there's a chance I could do some rock stuff in Titcomb with a friend that's been climbing with me.
el_chalafad
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Re: Wind River Adventure Partners?

Post by el_chalafad »

Howdy Eli,
How are your Wind River explorations going? More this summer? I'll be going in for a few summits this summer. Message me if you still are looking for people to be in the area or partners. As I am also looking.
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Re: Wind River Adventure Partners?

Post by TomPierce »

I'd be very interested as well. Always looking for new partners. Strongly prefer 5th class peaks, but would consider slumming on class 4 stuff. :lol:

-Tom
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Re: Wind River Adventure Partners?

Post by jscully205 »

Any interest in climbing the NE face on Pingora? I was in the cirque last fall but only had time for the east ledges.
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Eli Boardman
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Re: Wind River Adventure Partners?

Post by Eli Boardman »

Haha this thread is actually from two years ago, but I've been so busy that I still haven't climbed most of the peaks in the OP!

This summer the focus is going to be on 13ers, mainly in June (hopefully). I am planning a lot of long days (think a couple miles of 4th to low 5th linkups and glacier traverses), and I will probably be traveling solo most of the time, but I would be happy to take a partner on some of the tougher ones.

Particularly, anyone please feel free to email me if you're interested in Spearpoint, Turret, Henderson, Koven, etc. I will be attempting these as part of multi-day linkups and traverses, but who knows, maybe we could work out a plan to partner for part of a segment.

I'm also interested in doing some more technical (5.6-8) climbs in the Cirque or elsewhere, but that would be later in the summer if I finish my 13er project in June as planned. I would be highly interested in any technical 12ers as well. I am particularly interested in "The Steeple" (5.8, near the Cirque) and Mount Owen (5.6, Teton Range).

Lastly, I know of a remote, extremely steep/choosy looking, soft-ranked 12er that I believe is likely unclimbed. It might go at crumbly 4th class, or require aid, who knows. If anyone is seriously interested in this peak, let me know and we can talk. There are some fairly prominent 11ers in the same general area that are almost certainly unclimbed, too.