Granite Peak recent info

[Luna6288]

Hello --

I've been doing my research on a Granite Peak climb and the various routes and am leaning towards the SW Couloir route. Hoping to summit without ropes.

Anyone here able to provide me with recent info on that route or new info on the climb (seems like most posts are years old). OR can you direct me to the most robust post with pics, waypoints and other details I could use for mapping out the climb (ideally info you've used).

Hoping to do the climb in September.

Thank you.

[AlexeyD]

I’m planning to do it in mid August, but probably via the standard (south face) route. Still happy to give any info/beta requested. I’m also hoping to do some backpacking in the vicinity of the approach to that route (Aero Lakes area); if that happens I can share some photos and any other info I can.

[Luna6288]

Rope or no?

[AlexeyD]

60m 8.6mm rope and light alpine rack.

[climbnowworklater]

I did granite last year via SW ramp labor day weekend. Excellent route. Done in an overnite. I might have a gpx. Let me know if you want it or any info. Enjoy.

[joeandres97]

Headed up there in August too. Definitely don’t need to bring a rope and gear the 5.4 moves are minimal and easy if you have rock climbing experience. Downclimbing the first and third flatirons give you enough experience to be able to complete the route both up and down. Having done granite it’s definitely do able if you’re a confident climber plus you definitely want to minimize weight going up the “switchbacks from hell” on the approach.

[Luna6288]

Thanks guys.

Would love the gpx info or any other details that could aid in route finding or simplifying the climb.

[AlexeyD]

Downclimbing the first and third flatirons give you enough experience to be able to complete the route both up and down.

Thanks, as someone who has done neither and has no desire to, that erases any lingering doubts I might have had about bringing a rope

On a different note: did you go in via Froze-to-Death or Avalanche Lake?

[climbnowworklater]

Here is my TR which has my gpx. Hope it helps.
https://www.14ers.com/php14ers/triprepo ... m=tripmine

[jblyth]

Hoping to head up in August via SW Couloir, will post a conditions report. Thanks for the TR, climbnow, good info.

[AlexeyD]

Interesting, everyone seems to prefer the SW route. Perhaps we'll look into that. If nothing else, the approach sounds a lot nicer than FTD.

[AlexeyD]

OK, a quick update for anyone still following this. Long story short, we did not end up going for Granite this year, but we did do an off-trail traverse of sorts in the Beartooths that took us past the high camp for the Southwest Couloir/Ramp route at upper Sky Top Lake, so I do have some recent beta on the conditions of that route. Based on talking with several parties that had just completed the climb, it looks like 1) the lower part of the ramp has pretty substantial very firm snow/ice this year for several hundred feet at least, 2) it's possible to climb around this, but this require negotiating some pretty sketchy/loose terrain, 3) there are at least 2 fixed ropes now on the route, condition of said ropes is unclear but at least the anchors sound OK, 4) In addition to those, everyone we talked to brought their own ropes and were happy to have done so; 5) there appears to be significant rockfall hazard on the route, including "natural" rockfall caused by daily freeze-thaw; 6) both parties we talked to reported taking at least 12 hours to complete the route from camp at lower Sky Top Lake.

To reiterate, this is not first-hand info as I did not see the route personally, but based on all accounts it sounds like a pretty serious undertaking this year, much more involved than the relatively short elevation gain and "Class 3" rating would have one believe.

Good luck to all!

-AD