North Crestone Lake-Willow Lake high route

[Gendarmeman710]

I’m planning a backpacking trip in the Sangres in mid July with the goal of staying in the middle of the range. I’ve seen posts online of Mt Adams ascents via both of its western ridges. Has anybody connected North Crestone Lake and Willow Lake via a high route? I’m not looking to exceed Class 2+ or short sections of Class 3 with a bag on, but I reallllly don’t want to walk down valley. Thanks. - Frank

[Scott P]

Although I haven't done it, Gerry Roach's 13ers book shows various class 2 routes that would connect as a single class 2 route between the two lakes. Approximate route:

South Crestone.jpg

[justiner]

The tight topo lines on the northern side of the cols look real tough.

[Stratosfearsome]

south crestone lake to willow lake.jpg

Here's a photo looking across South Crestone Lake to Mt. Adam's west face. One of those diagonal ledges may go at class 3 or less to the notch between Mt. Adams and Unnamed 13546. The south side of the pass is grass / rock C2 down to Willow lake, as I remember.

[Scott P]

The tight topo lines on the northern side of the cols look real tough.

Roach still says class 2 though. Although I haven't done that route, usually his ratings are reliable. Blue is class 2.

20230528_121013.jpg

Roach says the route up to the saddle south of North Crestone Lake is a grassy slope and he mentions no specific difficulties.

He says the route up to the saddle south of South Crestone Lake is up some steep (class 2) talus up a wide coilour.

[justiner]

That's surprising honestly, as I thought the standard route up Mt. Adams was Class 3 - it's listed here as that (and on Summit Post).


Roach is notorious for grading things inconsistently - any Flatiron scrambler will tell you that much. He even has a short story about sandbagging himself on the route aptly called, "Hubris" on the First Flatiron.

Pinch of salt I guess. It seems routes on the Crestones vary (think Crestone Needle) depending if you cross over a gully/rib at the exact right place or not. I'm still trying to find a Class 2 route on the ridge between Adams and Obstruction - I'm sure it's there!

[JChitwood]

Agree with Justiner I also thought the standard route on Adams was C3. I packed the poles and used my hands a lot.

[Scott P]

That's surprising honestly, as I thought the standard route up Mt. Adams was Class 3 - it's listed here as that (and on Summit Post).

LoJ and Roach both list it as 2+. Class 3- isn't a commonly used rating. I haven't done it though, so can't say.

Still, the original post says he is OK with class 2+ or short sections of class 3 so he should be fine either way.

As far as Roach's route ratings go, I have found them to be reliable most of the time. There are some exceptions (the west ridge of Skyscraper is easy class 2, not the class 3 in the book), but usually in the other direction. I do know several of the class 2 14er routes he had are really class 1 now days. I have only done a few climbs in the Flatirons though. The map is copied is the old book though, so maybe the new on has it changed.

[Gendarmeman710]

Bear with me I’m still figuring out how to reply. Thanks for all the info!! I’m super stoked to check this route out now that I know it’s been done. I will leave a full trip report when I finish up at the end of July. Cheers!!

[zrsimpson]

I descended to North Crestone Lake after having summited Mt. Adams. It's steep with a lot of loose dirt and gravel. It was never unsafe (especially if you've done Adams), but it's not comfortable, either. It would be easier to go up than come down. The descent into the Willow Lake drainage is much easier. So I would recommend going up North Crestone and then down through Willow Lake.

I'd offer that Adams is Class 3, especially if you stick to the ridgeline, where the rock is really secure.

[drayeleo]

I traveled from North Crestone Lake to Willow Lake this past weekend via the two passes discussed here.

Pass #1:
I traveled around N Crestone lake to the south, as opposed to Roach's route around the north side. I was able to gradually climb along the slope to the SW of the lake, bypassing all loose rock immediately below the pass. With proper routefinding, this portion never exceeded class 2 boulder hopping in difficulty. The opposite side of the pass was open and low angle. This route would be easy to do the opposite direction as well, again assuming proper routefinding.

Pass #2:
The couloir on the north side of the pass headed to Willow Lake is steep with very loose scree and a few larger talus-sized rocks. While not prohibitively dangerous IMO it would have been an exhausting climb to go straight up the middle with scree sliding under your feet with every step. I climbed along the west edge of the couloir, using the more solid rock along its edge wherever possible. I would call that route easy class 3. I wouldn't love doing this one in reverse, since even the more solid rock has gravel sitting on it to make it sketchy if you can't see where you're placing your feet. Although it would probably be doable if you're highly motivated/risk tolerant. The south side of the pass is steep but very manageable to descend.

TLDR: the two passes will go without too much difficulty, if you're headed south and have scrambling/routefinding experience.