Colorado Mountaineering

[NoahH526]

Hello everyone!

I am just getting into mountaineering and trying to get some tips on how to properly train as the season is coming up and if anyone would want to potentially partner up!

Background: moved to Denver metro from NC 5 years ago. I immediately fell in love with climbing, hiking, backpacking, mountaineering.

The start of summer 2022 I had a goal to immerse myself in the mountains every weekend. I did eleven 14ers from late June to October. That winter I also started backpacking in as harsh conditions as possible. I have backpacked in -5F and hiked in -10F way more including windchill.

Start of summer 2023 I did the same thing. Another ten 14ers and this time started scrambling in class 3 and 4 terrain on various 12ers and 13ers. I again made sure to camp in harsh conditions to get a feel for reel mountaineering.

I also do semi tough hikes in the winter, so I am very comfortable traversing in knee to waist deep snow.

I am on the same trajectory for this year. In addition to my normal countless hours of cardio and some weight training, I have been apart of a climbing gym for a few months now and have been training on top rope.

This year I made it a goal to actually dabble into mountaineering. We have maybe a little over/under a month until it’s allowable and I have bought La Sportiva mountaineering boots, Petzl Crampons, ice axes, mountaineering harness, etc.

I eventually would like to get into more extreme and extensive mountaineering/climbing and go out of the country or even the state, but I want to solidify my experience here in CO first.

I have joined the Colorado mountain club, but that hasn’t been too helpful as those classes book in minutes and I have heard some bad things about the club (someone correct me if I am wrong).

I was hoping to maybe have a mentor or even just a mountaineering buddy to show me the basics. I am also interested in joining the Alpine rescue team which a new class opens Dec of this year so want to be prepared for training in that.

I am open to any suggestions, good first climbs or couloirs, etc etc. if no one is interested in partnering up

I would like to add, I am very motivated and ambitious when it comes to my mountaineering goals. I train hard, I try to be as careful as possible, and I try to read the terrain as much as possible. I like to mitigate risks and not be overly ambitious or even get summit fever

Thank you!

[Danger_D]

Welcome to the club. I'm not the most experienced person in the forum, but I thought I could share some things that have helped my start to do more snow climbs.

Fitness Training: It sounds like you are already pretty fit, but there is a great book called "Training for the New Alpinism" that gives some fantastic practical advice on how to tailor your training/cardio for the sport

Avy danger: The Colorado snowpack is unfortunately more reactive than other parts of the country, so knowing how to assess your risks is crucial. There is a lot of really good information online, but personally I really appreciated the hands on learning of in an AIARE 1 class. This knowledge, when combined with planning on CalTopo and reading the forecasts on CAIC daily (to get a sense of how things are evolving) gives me the piece of mind to make less-shitty decisions.

Good first routes: This is a topic that people could argue about forever, but I found this summitpost page really helpful https://www.summitpost.org/colorado-14e ... ter/337648 . It breaks down a lot of the 14ers into classes factoring in safety and how much effort is involved. I think Quandary is a lot of people first winter route, including a lot of people who shouldn't be up there lol.

[NoahH526]

Welcome to the club. I'm not the most experienced person in the forum, but I thought I could share some things that have helped my start to do more snow climbs.

Fitness Training: It sounds like you are already pretty fit, but there is a great book called "Training for the New Alpinism" that gives some fantastic practical advice on how to tailor your training/cardio for the sport

Avy danger: The Colorado snowpack is unfortunately more reactive than other parts of the country, so knowing how to assess your risks is crucial. There is a lot of really good information online, but personally I really appreciated the hands on learning of in an AIARE 1 class. This knowledge, when combined with planning on CalTopo and reading the forecasts on CAIC daily (to get a sense of how things are evolving) gives me the piece of mind to make less-shitty decisions.

Good first routes: This is a topic that people could argue about forever, but I found this summitpost page really helpful https://www.summitpost.org/colorado-14e ... ter/337648 . It breaks down a lot of the 14ers into classes factoring in safety and how much effort is involved. I think Quandary is a lot of people first winter route, including a lot of people who shouldn't be up there lol.

Thank you for the advice! I do have Freedom of the Hills and Training for the New Alpinism. That is how I was able to get in such good shape actually. I agree I need to take an avalanche class.

I’m not necessarily looking for just hiking winter routes as I’ve done plenty, but mainly looking for other technical alpine ascents such as couloirs. Obviously as easy as possible so I can work my way up. Thank you for the link. I will be sure to check it out!

[Ericsheffey]

I really enjoyed the North Face Couloir on Castle as a good intro couloir climb. Tuning Fork on Torreys or Cristo Couloir on Quandary could be good options too. Some folks recommend something like the Angel Of Shavano as a better beginner option, but it's hardly a climb at all, and so finding something that has some steepness to it will give you a better feel for couloir climbing without taking on something too steep that will require much more front pointing. As mentioned above, be mindful of the snowpack, and wait until CAIC is rating the hazard as LOW with solid melt/freeze cycles, then start early and get up before the threat of wet slides rises.

Cool to see another North Carolinian here BTW, I grew up in Greensboro, and moved to CO from the east coast about 5 years ago as well.

CMC classes can be cool (I've taken a few), but yeah they've had some sketchy incidents the last few years (which is why I cancelled my membership), and I've seen unqualified instructors teaching questionable practices in their classes. If you want to really speed up your acquisition of knowledge, find a local AMGA/IFMGA guide and hire them for private instruction. I've hired several over the years and have made leaps and bounds in my mountaineering progress. Highly recommend every guide I've hired so far (Dale Remsberg/IFMGA Guide, Max Lurie/AMGA Rock & Alpine Guide, Jeff Mascaro/AMGA Rock & Alpine Guide). They've all been receptive to the idea that I want to gain instruction so that I can bag technical peaks unguided afterwards.

I'm a little tied up with grad school and some other things right now, but I'm still periodically getting out for some mellow outdoor climbing near Denver. If you've got a harness and rock shoes, and weekday availability, let me know if you have any interest in getting on a moderate multi-pitch rock route in Clear Creek Canyon, and I'd be happy to link up for a day of climbing and chatting about mountaineering. I've still got a long way to go myself, but I'm slowly but surely building my climbing resume.