Dallas Peak

Route: East Face
Posted On: 9/6/2021, By: Danger_D
Info: Completely dry. All rap anchors (summit, and the 2 class 4 sections) are all in great shape. The 4th class chimney felt more like low 5th IMO, and my less experienced partner appreciated a rope. On the short crux pitch I placed a .4 at the belay, a .5 in about 10 feet up, and built an anchor about 10 feet above the crux pitch in a dihedral using a .75, 1, and 2 (could use less, but I had them). Didn't use rope after that. In general, this trip report was super helpful for route-finding near the top https://www.14ers.com/php14ers/tripreport.php?trip=15410 

Route: Standard
Posted On: 8/22/2021, By: yaktoleft13
Info: Dallas received the same dusting snow that the other peaks in the area received. Dry until crossing over to the north face (we used the wormhole to the right under the rap route), then a couple inches on the crux pitch, which made it very spicy. Lightly snowed on us while climbing the pitch too. A couple warm days would likely melt it out, but for now come prepared. 

Route: Standard
Posted On: 8/16/2021, By: Will_E
Info: Webbing and quicklink at the top are in good shape. I didn't use the two lower rap stations, didn't pay attention to condition, light rain started after summit rap so I hightailed it outta there. 

Route: alternate starts
Posted On: 8/10/2021, By: Wentzl
Info: So the start of the technical climbing on Dallas has several variations. Yesterday I tried a third start and my condition update is just to share my observations and compare the three. The southernmost, and the one you come to first, is to climb up under the chockstone and pull through a small hole. There is still a small amount of ice in there as of yesterday, but while wet, was climbable. I consider this the middle of the three in terms of difficulty. Going north, next up is the "standard" start. There is a bulge to pull over and usually some webbing at the top. This seemed to me the most difficult of the three. There was some blue webbing for a belay station above the bulge yesterday. If you miss the bulge, you come to the north face and can just start out on this airy wall. While by far the most exposed, I also thought this was the easiest of the three starts. The climbing on this start is similar to the final moves to the summit. While Roach says these starts are 4th class and the crux 5.3, it seemed to me that with the exception of the North Face start, the other two were more difficult than the finish. 

Route: Standard North Face
Posted On: 8/8/2021, By: Anima
Info: The standard (5.3) route is in good shape. The entire route is dry lest the ledges on the north face, but it did not interfere with the climbing. All of the 5th class is totally dry... and easier than expected. Roach's description is absolutely awful and does not accurately describe the climb. Use trip reports on this site instead. The Summit rappel anchor has both webbing and steel cable (almost identical to the one that was put into the hour glass anchor on Little Bear) and all other anchors on the mountain are in very good shape and appear to be from this season. Beautiful peak. a 60-meter rope is ideal for the rappels. 

Route: East Face
Posted On: 7/12/2021, By: davisschenk
Info: Route is snow free except for area directly under the rappel. 

Route: Mill Creek
Posted On: 9/20/2020, By: angry
Info: Route is dry until you exit the cave portion of the chockstone. From that point, unavoidable snow to belay ledge and crux pitch to summit. 

Route: Bootleg gully up, standard (Roach) down
Posted On: 8/7/2020, By: HikesInGeologicTime
Info: Some snow under the summit pitch's chockstone, dry otherwise. Alternate route up a gully to climber's right of standard had some fun, solid Class 3/4 scrambling. Be mindful of start times even on bluebird days, as the cairns and trail segments below the cliff bands on the standard route are, shall we say, challenging to follow in the dark. 

Route: Mill Creek
Posted On: 7/20/2020, By: dwoodward13
Info: Summer conditions. Snow patch at the base of the belay station has melted enough and its totally avoidable. Incredible mountain. 

Route: Standard
Posted On: 7/7/2020, By: thebeave7
Info: Climbed from Mill Creek TH. Trail in great shape to the upper basin then just followed the steep grass to the cliff bands. Above the first set of cliff bands the climbers trail is easy to follow and snow free. When you reach the upper head wall climb the gulley to the right of the chockstones, a few class 4 moves but nothing bad at all. For the final pitch there's one very rotten section of snow to cross. It was the crux of our day, axe was nice for the leader, no need for crampons. You can set an anchor at the base between a pinch in two rocks. My friend placed two tricams for the first few moves off the snow (wet feet and 5.3), then the rest of the summit pitch was clear and fun class 4. Anchor on top had two newish pieces of webbing backed up by a 2 older pieces, all in good shape other than UV damage. 

Route: Standard
Posted On: 7/5/2020, By: dwoodward13
Info: Route finding was pretty straightforward to the base of class 4 pitch. Not sure if we chose the right spot to ascend here because it felt more like class 5, but had a nice anchor at the top to belay people up. One patch of rotten snow to cross to get to the belay position for the last pitch. Recommend ice ax for this. We bailed here due to weather. Another party reported the summit anchor was in good condition. 

Route: South Slopes Traverse
Posted On: 2/3/2020, By: Kiefer
Info: Snow is stable below treeline on all aspects. Depth averaging 3'-5'. Treeline snow conditions is powder. No faceting observed but fresh and granular snow is present at depths down to 6'. Easy penetration of snowpack fist to 3-4 fingers. East, South and West facing aspects are likewise holding deep powder up to 6'. All granular grains with no instability. No hoar or frozen layers observed. Some crust at higher elevations but no more than an inch or two. Strangely stable. Tons of snow down here!! 

Route: Standard
Posted On: 9/25/2019, By: Bigperm
Info: 1. Do not take the standard Roche route up from the High line Trail. He describes ascending through the gullies to the traverse under the cliffs. The route goes up a class3 black gully on the left which becomes grey at its top. This route sucks really bad! There's a variation that's developed over the years to climbers right that ascends a high point between gullies. The trail is a little tough to spot from the High line Trail but if you head to the right side of a low wide grey v shaped gully it should become clearer higher up. The trail is cairned higher up to help you through some improbable terrain at class2+, at worst. There's a great beta picture available from another resource (SP, username Kiefer). Find it and use it for ascent and descent. Use the yellow route in that picture. 2. The summit pitch is not far down from the pedestal to the right. Maybe 50ish feet down around. Picture attached. Crux is the first 20ft then another near the top. Rap slings and rings were good. 3. We used a 60m and were happy we did. The rap through the hole could leave you short with a 50m. Moreover, the intermediate rap above the hole appears to be around a rock that doesn't look large enough and we thought should probably not be trusted. There's another anchor at the top of the class4 bit that gets you to the summit pitch that is good which is a single sling with rings. 4. The anchor above the "green-ish" class 4 climb that gets you up to the summit towers is good. Two new slings with rings. Finding it was easy as we approached it from above. 

Route: Standard
Posted On: 8/26/2019, By: HikerGuy
Info: Snow free, summer conditions. Rap anchors in good shape, but always inspect before rapping. 

Route: 5.7 Variation
Posted On: 10/11/2018, By: angry
Info: Via 5.7 variation. Graupel and flurries all day. Snow and verglas above 12K. There were 5 pieces of webbing on the summit rappel anchor and a rope left (tagged) above the cave portion of chockstone. Rap'd summit, cave, and 4th class section. Long but great day!