Dallas Peak

Route: East Face
Posted On: 8/26/2018, By: zdero1
Info: The route is completely dry. Not even snow underneath the chockstone. 

Route: Standard
Posted On: 7/5/2018, By: bmcqueen
Info: A bit of snow on the ramp down to the summit pitch, but entirely avoidable. Summit pitch is dry (as is the rest of the route - no traction or axe necessary). Slings and rap rings off of summit and lower class 4 wall are in good shape. 60m rope was great as you can rappel through the hole by the chockstone (onto and continuing down a bit of remaining snow below the chockstone). 

Route: East Face
Posted On: 6/30/2018, By: Wentzl
Info: While there is still some snow on the north face, the standard route can be climbed snow free. There is a small block of snow at the base of the rappel, but is easily passed over. Basically full on summer conditions. Flowers are nice too. Photos are snow on the south face. Snow on the down ramp on north face. Smoke from the 416 fire. 

Route: Standard East Face
Posted On: 8/20/2017, By: mrickers
Info: Standard E Face route is snow free. Route is pretty well cairned. 2 pieces of webbing on the summit rappel anchor (one black one blue), the blue one looks pretty new. Webbing on the class 4 rap anchor was in good shape as well. 

Route: \\
Posted On: 7/10/2017, By: d_baker
Info: We did this as a two day trip. Day one approach camp, which was on the S side of the Highline Trail after crossing the stream that drains out of the approach for T0. Day two climb peak, descend, and pack out. I liked doing it this way. We brought axe & crampons and used them climbing a snow filled gully that leads to the first cliff band weakness. The snow can be avoided on climber's right, which is where the "climber's trail" is located. We descended the dirt trail. The wrap-around to the other side to gain E ridge to base of summit block was straight forward and route finding was pretty easy. The chimney was snow free, and we felt better protecting it as we climbed through it. There's an odd move in there, or so I thought. The down climb & traverse to the base of the crux pitch was dry and wasn't an issue. The base of the crux pitch has snow, which I forgot to take a picture of! I used my axe in the soft snow to approach the base of the rock pitch. Wet boots getting on the rock was not a confidence builder! I've read in reports that some protect the climb with only one piece, but I felt better placing three pieces. Also, I climbed on two 30m half ropes, and couldn't reach the top before running out of rope. My belayer was on the "diving board" and had to clean belay anchor to move to base of rock pitch to give me the added length needed to reach top and sling a rock for an anchor. Gear brought & used: two 30m ropes four shoulder length slings/draws one 3' rabbit ears sling #13 nut #1 cam .4 cam .75 Used rabbit ears sling & nut for bottom belay anchor (by slinging chockstone & backing up w/nut). Cams protected climb, ~20' piece of webbing used to sling rock on top to bring up my partner. Rap station has two slings (red & black) with two rap rings & two biners. Looked okay for this season. Was able to rap through big chockstone, but then had to down climb ~30' of steep snow to get to ground. There's a sling just above the cave portion of chockstone, and one could pull the rope there and re-thread it there to rap to base of snow. We didn't do that. Pictures to help tell the story: 

Route: S couloir
Posted On: 3/19/2017, By: Monster5
Info: Jomah, boggy, Kylie and I went up the south couloir starting from Mill Creek and heading up deep creek to skyline. We took the shortcut down (ledge traverse on right above falls). Should've taken the shortcut route up and down as there is some avy terrain and unnecessary gain on the standard approach. 8 mi/5k/13 hrs. Steep snow/5.7 or M3. Snow is in spring shape. Cruiser in the morning, dangerous and post holey in the afternoon. We had intermittent tracks on the approach but mostly set our own. The inset south couloir proper had firm snow up to 50 deg with a kind of sketchy M3ish top out. No ice. We roped for the topout and summit block. The summit block is a pain. We basically summitted via the rappel dihedral ( two short 5.7ish steps). For some reason, there's a fixed line at the crux. We didn't check the rope's condition or its anchor. A better topout option at similar difficulty but sunny and dry would be to go directly from the thumb notch at the top of the couly up the SE face. If I ever do this in winter again, I'd probably go that way as it can be accessed from the standard route too. Descended standard route. Snow up to maybe 45 deg. Some wet slides on the s face. E face pretty nice once the sun left. 

Route: Standard
Posted On: 7/18/2016, By: Marsh
Info: Still a trace of snow on the north side ramp below the summit block pitch but crampons and ice axe are definitely not necessary. 

Route: Standard - East Face
Posted On: 7/18/2016, By: BenjiFarson
Info: Climbed Dallas last Friday (7/15/2016) I had it all to myself, wanted to share a few photos as perhaps some folks are interested in snow conditions. The Standard East Face Route is snow free except for a minor amount to contend with at the base of the 5.3 summit tower crux, though very minimal and easy to skirt around - reference the photos for an idea. You'll land in snow coming off the summit rappel once through the chockstone, but again, easy to deal with. Besides this, you're snow-free. It's on. Go get ya' some! 

Route: mostly standard
Posted On: 9/17/2015, By: TallGrass
Info: Clean and dry until clouds rolled in, then light rain, graupel (hail), and flurries. Absolutely no snow below the car-sized chock stone nor anywhere else we saw, but did see snow on parts from Telluride the next day. Took bypass up to above chockstone. Rap station at top and a 30m will work (under 15m distance). Couldn't find the north chimney with weather deteriorating. Scrambled up some some 1-3' blocks to get above the chock stone. Face about ~20' to the right with a belay ledge to lead up a flake wall, starts on the left, traverses to the right and over a protruding body block, then up a crack on the right, under a headwall block to the right again, to gain the summit between the rap block and summit cairn. Rap block had cord/webbing bundle and 3 uniform quicklinks. Also a free cord (white/blue) used in conjunction with slings to make a top belay anchor. PAY ATTENTION TO RAP ROPE AT QUICKLINKS to insure clean pull down at end of rap. DAMHIK. We paired two 30m Beal Randos (8mm). Recommend: LEAVE EARLY so you reach the base of Dallas at dawn. Trail is easy to follow by headlamp with only two junctions from the TH (Wiebe/Last Dollar, Sneffels Highline). Last chance for water crosses trail at Dallas base. Take 7-36' feet of webbing or cordlette and three quick links. Summit rap block:~24', lower 4th class 6-7', and rest for bypass or contingencies. Have windproof lighter to melt cut ends. Photos: 1. "4th class" rap station below summit towers. UV-faded cord double half-hitched to a beat up red sling looped around block. Removed sling, retied cord as secondary with fisherman‘s, and added neon yellow webbing and steel quick link. Left old rap ring. Could use another 7' of webbing or cord to replace old cord, maybe another QL too to ease rope bend. 2. Summit towers. Can climb up from inside on right thru small hole (Roach‘s "Chock it Up" 5.?), or around right via bypass (did latter to summit and former to try and free rope). Tougher option is from inside left through rap hole. 3. Looking up bypass. Work left foot up until can reach solid hand holds. Rap station atop. 4. Vertical 120-degree pano with chockstone hole bottom, wall middle, and summit top. Possibly rapp-able w/ 30m rope, but make sure knotted ends reach. Mulled as ascent pitch with exit at "?". 5. Final pitch used, ~20' right of chockstone. Couple OP link cams and BD #3 used, but flakes hollow. Backpack will catch on overhang. 6. Wineguy on summit with me readying rap. Flake wall topout on right. 7. Descent. Pay attention to all cairns and landmarks, look behind you often, take photos, and leave seemingly ubiquitous cairns on bluebird days alone for situations like this. Took a while to get below cloud cover. 

Route: standard
Posted On: 9/13/2014, By: KTC88
Info: North face is holding a little ice and snow, but can be avoided where necessary when climbing the summit pitch. No need for microspikes. South and East Faces are dry. 

Route: East Face
Posted On: 9/3/2014, By: Tommy Dorr
Info: The summit pitch (North Face) had snow and ice. It‘s an easy enough lead though. 

Route: Mill Creek
Posted On: 7/6/2014, By: Yikes
Info: Main route in decent condition (for Dallas). Very few patches of snow. Maybe 15 feet of snow below crux move but wasn‘t much of an obstacle. Rest of summit pitch was dry. 90 ft rap will place you below the chockstone, but you will need to downclimb snow about 30 feet. 

Route: North Face
Posted On: 6/13/2014, By: goreskier
Info: Climbed and skied the north face of dallas peak yesterday. snow holding well. bit of dust layer still making for shitty skiing down low, but excellent up high. steep turns off the top of ridge. 

Route: std via Mill Ck
Posted On: 8/19/2013, By: Monster5
Info: Route is completely dry. Once above the trail on the grass slog, look for a well-cairned and traveled social trail that climbs left and up through the initial c3 cliffs on the right side of the debris flow gully . Presently, the trail/cairns are fairly easy to follow all the way around right and up through the c3/c4 bands/gullies to the Gilpin connecting ridge. After the stiff c4 move and short downclimb, the stepover bulge can be avoided by climbing up briefly to a higher ledge (c2+). The exposed summit pitch is a single move of low 5th; rest is 4th. Up the left angled crack, switch over right briefly before scrambling up. We had a party of 4 and a single rope, so we belayed just through the crux and scrambled the rest. Throwing a rope down seemed an annoying prospect. Recommended rack: BD .75 (horizontal crack protects the crux perfectly), a few mid-sized nuts double lengths for anchors. If one were to sew it up, an additional BD 1 and 2 would do. Webbing at all three stations (summit, summit pitch bail point, optional lower 4th class section) was in good condition and the summit orange webbing/aluminum rap ring were just placed by josephg's group 8/17. Mileage ~12. Cruiser trail. 4AM start put us just below the first difficulties at first light (consistent average pace). I felt the crux move was slightly spicier than Teakettle's crux move. Probably due to the increased exposure. Dallas' approach was more tedious, slightly more exposed, and longer, but Teakettle's approach was looser (dinner plates). Pictures last quarter of here: https://picasaweb.google.com/105978537438093356597/TrurosAndDallas08182013 

Route: standard
Posted On: 8/10/2013, By: mikefromcraig
Info: Just a heads up, Roach lists this as 9.3 miles. I WISH!!! Our gps says 12.5 and we stayed on the trail almost perfectly. Also, I think Roach says something about always expecting ice. There were two other climbers who apparently took that advice and brought ice axes but they looked pretty funny as there was no ice is site. Oh, and Roach says this is the hardest centennial but I didn‘t think it was any harder than teakettle and my partner says that it was actually easier.